Ohhhh....That's just mean!!!!!!!!!

 

Haha I actually don't really care for either team but was rooting for LSU cause a good friend of mine that I played sports with in Highschool plays football for them...but I figured since you are from Ohio that comment might have hit close to home

 

Well I was under the car tonight changing her oil and while the pan was draining I was laying there looking at my OBX headers and remembering back when I post this thread about a certain guy (going un-named) that bashed my Chinese headers for the quality of the stainless steel, the welds and about anything else bad he could think of. So I decided to take a few pictures of what mine look like after almost 10 months and 7,000 miles. For the record my car is a daily driver...rain...shine...snow...or salt. These headers have seen it all. You guys be the judge. For the record they are not made in China I believe Japan or Tiwian (spelling) is more accurate. But my point with this post is after 10 months with my cheap, inferior headers I still have had not one issue with them to date. I post this for the guys that might be on the fence about the quality of the OBX header. Don't be afraid to buy them!! You may see some black stuff on my headers and wonder what that is. I have my car undercoated (Zeibart) they are not very careful.
Scott

 

They look good Scoot...

 

Yeah Scoot they look good.......

 

HAHAHAHA, it's an inside joke....

 

Thanks Adaam!

 

Anytime

 

Thanks for the updated info. I am adding cams soon and plan on adding these this fall or winter. I run FRRP Stingers, I think the Hpipe with the resonators (I run an O/R H at the moment) cams, and LTs will sound MEAN.

 

Those OBX headers are looking better and better every day.

Is there a store on Ebay that specifically sells them like thespoilerstore?

 

No store I know of but always several places to buy them. Here you go. A little over 6 hours left at this place. $530 shipped to your door. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-0...mZ150283092450
Scott

 

That is just awesome!

Thanks Mach.

 

Do any of you guys that bought the OBX headers have the extra cats/resonators lying around? If so, let me know!

 

I installed the H-pipe with resonators on mine. Have the straight H still around. They are NOT cats.

 

How do you think these would sound with the resonators and muffler deletes. My current setup is stock header/H pipe with muffler deletes. I am considering these LT's w/ OR h & stock mufflers, resonator H and stock mufflers or resonator h & muffler deletes. I love the loudness of the deletes but don't want anything too loud. Any help is appreciated.

 

I'm starting to want a set of headers now

 

the only issue im having with these headers, are the positioning of the O2 sensors. I even have a delay in my tune due to the fact that the front sensors are relocated to the collectors. Every few days i get a check engine light and the codes are bank 1 sensor 1 slow response and bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich. When the car is cold and i start her up, it will take about 2 minutes then the car will start to run like crap for a minute till the sensors get to the proper temperature. This is just driving me so crazy and i have no idea what to do. Other than that, the headers are holding up great, sound great and offer pretty good performance. I just dont know if this problem is hurting my car when cold. Should i see if brenspeed can tune for a longer delay in the circuit? what do i do?? HELP PLEASE THIS IS ANNOYING!!

 

time to time the codes will switch, one time it will have the codes for bank1 and another time it will say bank 2, keeps changing back and forth. i know its cause of the o2 sensor circuit and not my modifications.

 

classix,
Might be some help with this, but will be a long post, so bear with me.
Stuck rich code, forget if it's P0196 or P0198 or similar.
I got that one soon after installing my OBX's. Talked with Brent & swapped my O2 sensors side-to-side to see if the code would follow the sensor. I also cleaned the connectors at that time. Mine went away & I've not had a stuck rich code since last December. If it follows, replace the affected O2 sensor. If it stays same side, swap the extenders & see if it follows that.
Also, retorque the header bolts after 1 good heat-up cycle.

P0153; slow O2 response. I started getting this one a month or so after the install. Brent had already dialed in a delay on the O2 circuits for me due to the sensors being in the collectors. They don't heat up as quickly as when in the stock locations. I would get this code every 2 weeks or so, but would not affect the running or performance in any way. Just a nuscience light for me.
Brent worked with me on this one, he dialed in more of a delay into the circuits. Got worse, I would get the P0153 code every other day. I reloaded the prior tune & thats where I'm at now.
What I did discover though from experience is if I let the car warm up 2-5 mins. before driving, I won't get the P0153 code.
We(70MACHOWNER) & I also installed same headers on his vert & he's never had either code We both have similar mods, except he's now running cams & I'm not. Mine is also a manual.
I think the slow response code is something that we will just have tolerate, but I believe you have another issue with the stuck rich code. Try swapping out the sensors/extenders & see if that gives you something to narrow it down to.

 

LT headers,no cats & muffler deletes will be LOUD. Set off alarms, wake the neighbors,etc.
When I installed my LT's, I was running the Pypes MM system. Too loud for me as a DD. After 1 week, I replaced the MM system with the stock over-axle pipes & my previous FRPP GTA's. Still loud, & gnarly(raspy) above 3K.
Scott didn't like the tone on his & toned it down a bit more with some Magnaflow(?) mufflers.
Check Youtube with my username & listen to Scott's vids for some sound clips.