AFBLUE

I did a search for this topic but couldn't come up with anything on this subject. I've also reread the supercharger thread
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...t=supercharger

and read how many of you sung the high praises of the twin screw design.

I like the the Saleen but dont' want to have to lower the engine to close my hood (also can't find any local dealers for saleen).

So the Whipple is looking good, and for the price the non intercooled one looks especially appealing.

What are the drawbacks of the nonintercooled version? During the summer, I have to keep an eye on my temp gauge on my non intercooled vortech supercharger, and don't want to deal with this on my new car. But I've read that the twin screws have lower air temps than other types of superchargers, so I don't know if it would even be a problem.

OKLACOP, I'd appreciate your input since you have one and live in hot OK.

Thanks

Rebel73

I can't speak for the non-intercooled, but I LOVE my intercooled Whipple! My car really is a road rocket now.

However, I have heard that intercooled is always safer, but then again you will run lower boost, so....
hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in

OKLACOP

Mark,

So far I love it. I have only put about 550 miles on it since the install, but no complaints so far. I still have the FRPP tune which is night and day difference from the tune I was running from Alternative Auto. The FRPP tune is conservative though. (I can't wait for a custom tune) I have the 8lb pulley that I want to put on the Whipple soon, but I'll have wait on the custom tune for that. I'm about to have the Shelby GT500 fuel pump installed, then I'll be ready for the tune. No temp issues, no fuel starvation issues, etc...... Although I haven't run it through the ringer yet, I can definately say I'm impressed so far. If I was going to complain about anything at all it would be that the shift points need to be firmed up a little, but that has nothing to do with the Whipple. The tune will take care of that. Good luck in whatever you decide. By the way do you have an auto. or manual??????

AFBLUE

Thanks for the input Rob. I will have a manual (ordered an 08). I need to update my signature.

The dealership I ordered from is also a FRPP dealer. I'm guessing I can probably get a non-intercooled whipple for about $4400-4500 from them as they were willing to sell me the intercooled one for $5700.

As it get's hotter, let me know if you have any issues.

anthony05gt

You shouldn't have any issues due to the hotter temps. The reason you should go with the intercooled version is the engine can run more advanced ignition timing and a smaller pulley for more power, substantially more power due to the cooler air charge. These engines just seem to like it cool. They just run much better that way. If there's a way you could swing the intercooled kit, you should do it.

AFBLUE

I've read that if you are getting above 425 rwhp without forged internals, you taking a gamble in the long term.

Rob, do you have any dyno #s with your whipple?

TillmanSpeed

Can you clarify on this a little bit? Just curious... you like the FRPP tune better?

TillmanSpeed

You're right in your assumption that above 425-450 at the wheels takes it's wear on the internals. Not something that will be a problem until you've had it on the car for a good amount of time... years even. But you will notice the motor beginning to break down over a lesser period of time.

So in that case, you don't HAVE to go forged right away. There are plenty of guys who bolt it on, and have 475RWHP for quite some time before even thinking about the internals. That's where I'd draw the line, though.

As for non intercooled, I don't forsee any huge problems with heat. Really romping on it during the summer months isn't going to run cool by any means, but you're not risking anything WITH THE RIGHT TUNE.

CR

AFBLUE

I made some technical errors in the quote you used of me above.

I should have said non intercooled is 415rwhp and intercooled is 475rwhp as indicated in whipple's link below.
http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/...sp?ProdID=1208

So the nonintercooled is safe long term but the intercooled is at least 50hp above 425rwhp and the dynochart in the link has it at 504rwhp.

I know many of you think, what's wrong with this guy? He doesnt' want more power?

I've got a set budget for mods and the intercooled version with or without the forged internals isn't going to work mentally (I'm slowly using up my engine and overbudget without internals) or financially (I've got to buy forged internals + spend $1200 more for the intercooled supercharger, for a peace of mind) .

Bottomline: If I can get 415rwhp for ~$4500 + labor, without overheating issues or longterm wear on the engine, then I'll be a happy camper.

So far no one has really brought up any real negatives on the nonintercooled version. If there are some let me know.

kevinb120

Well I would say the non-intercooled is like the Roush charger, and pretty safe. And, if you want to go big boost later, unlike the roush blower, you can always upgrade to serious power-or even a fully built motor and not need to replace the blower. I'm thinking the same way too, for the money its not bad. I just wouldn't start trying to custom-tune it and just leave it as it supposed to be from the 'factory'. Looking at it from a sane cost point, it will work with the stock drivetrain parts, going big just starts to cost a ton of $$. 420hp is plenty fun, and you can get a lot of stuff without adding any more stress to the engine(gears, exhaust, AL driveshaft, weight saving parts, etc). I'm not trying to get 500hp out of this motor either. By the time I get bored with it the next gen of V8's will be making its appearance. You're starting with a ultra-high performance capeable component and running it at a level that it wont break a sweat. You don't even need to change the fuel pump. Just that kit and a set of mufflers is all you need for pretty **** fast car with no worries.

The old SN's 4.6 had the 3 main levels of boost. 6lb was safe N/IC with a decent tune and required a lot less 'support' mods. 8lb's was safe with the IC. 10 lbs was pushing your luck.(not using these #'s for refference to the 3v).

A power adder is still the best way to make a big difference in a car's speed. You look at staying N/A and can do a CAI/CMCV plates($800) aluminum drive shaft($600), gears($500), and full exhaust($1500) and still just bolt on the non IC blower on a bone stock car with the safest tune and be faster.

I knew a couple people with SN's with this little bugger
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=5290
Still added over 50hp and did more then what you could bolt on the car N/A and was as safe as could be.

AFBLUE

Found this on another site
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/838207-post8.html

AFBLUE

Here's an another opinion:
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_30299...tm.htm#3033985

kevinb120

I agree, I think its a good choice and probably the way I am going to go. With my employee discount, the price starts with a 3, with no shipping


And as has been said you can get a built bottom end and go for 600hp+

Rebel73

With the conservative street tune (courtesy of ST Motorsports) I have now:

441 rwhp
425 rwtq

Adam also gave me an "aggressive" street tune which puts down closer to 460rwhp and a "race only" tune which puts down around 480, but obvisouly I gotta run race gas for that.

And yes, I do plan on upgrading the internals in another year or two. Of course, alot of it has to do with the driver. I normally cruise around town, but on occasion I will let 'er rip.

AFBLUE

Wow that's great pricing. Care to buy 2 and I will pay back?

NJ3

Or 3.

OdiousBarbarian

or ~20 and we can eBay them!

kevinb120

Just get a part time gig at a Ford dealer as a porter for 4 hours a week I'll get the exact employee price tomorrow.

rdw401

That is super. I can just see an East Coast KC in the making with great prices!

kevinb120

Well raw cost is 3995, jobber price is $4400.00(about 10% over), so thats probably the right $$ number. Not a ton of markup in it.