Good, that must mean that AirAid has stepped up their products. That's good to know.... I'm going to order one tomorrow and let you know what I think on Thurs when it comes in.

Wait til we get the longtubes on there with a tune! It's going to scream! I'm going to do up a tune for you, just so we have a backup in case of emergency... you can take it with you for the hell of it no charge.

CR

 

CR, YOU R THE MAN!!! THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!. I have the CD-Rom that came with my X-Cal, and just have to load it into my laptop (which I'll bring with). If you can keep more than 3 tunes in the X-Cal, you can load it to it, or load it to my laptop. I can't wait till you get my "toys" and we can get my car down to you. What we need to do, is do a dyno run before the install (minus the BamaChips tune), and then after the install, to see what the Airaid did to a basically stock engine.

 

That wouldn't be a problem at all! I will be calling you tomorrow with some details! THANKS JEFF!

CR

 

3 letters to remember...AFE stage 2 cai u won,t b disapointed

 

Hey guys,

I've been a bit reluctant to post about this because I dont have the dynocharts to show the a/f but I've tested the C&L both when it was a prototype both here in Alabama and in St. Louis, and since they've started shipping them as well. On MY personal car with Comp Cams and offroad exhaust it still came in at a Perfect 12.8-13.0 a/f ratio.

The reason I dont have my graphs are my Dyno PC went down and it has them all in it. I've switched to my laptop now for the dyno. IF anyone doubts me I will gladly perform this test again to show the results.

The Airaid intake runs it at around 14.1:1 at WOT, I've tested this intake now twice without a tune as my local Roush dealer is sellling the mess out of them to guys with Roush cars like mine. Now after my tune they come in at a good a/f, not that the adjustments are much but still at WOT it is lean.

The thing I dont care for when it comes to the Airaid with the removabe insert is that once it is removed the intake is 101mm!! That is freekin HUGE! I've dynotuned with the insert removed and didn't find one hp difference over that of the insert installed on a basically stock car.

Point being, once you get much over 90mm you are just too big for a lightly modified car. Even C&L notes this in with their Racer kit with the 95mm MAF housing. Not that its bad in ANYWAY but that it maybe a little too much for a lightly modified car, now add headers or nitrous and you're set.

I think my reputation speaks for itself when it comes to proving my point with the a/f ratio's on the dyno but like I said if need be I can put my car on the dyno here and I would be happy to show the results.

thanks, Doug

 

Why are people hating on GMS? When I ran the GMS with the jumper harness, I had no problems whatsoever once I had it installed. The car ran good, and a LOT stronger than stock.

^Get a speed shop who knows what they're doing and this won't be a problem. Tillman Speed built my tunes for the GMS and set it up so I don't use the jumper harness at all. Just plug the wire harness directly into the MAF that came mounted in the intake and install the tune. I can't speak for Bamachips or Brenspeed, but I would think they'd be able to take this into account. I also had one tune set up for the stock airbox and it ran fine with the GMS and jumper harness
...

If you're looking at getting a tune later, then none of these options really make financial sense. I spent about $200 more than I needed to by getting the GMS and then the tunes instead of a packaged deal. I would either hold off and save up the extra $$ or just throw the extra cash down now and get it over with. It WILL save you money in the long run.

Here's my view of the GMS intake: I was disappointed/concerned in 3 areas. The actual filter is of the non-oiled variety (questioning the filter material used and how good it is at filtering) and the quality doesn't seem all that good. I think the filter is good enough for most people, but that's one of my paranoias. Second, the heat shield doesn't seem to fit quite right with a filter installed on the inlet (a tight fit that could pull the filter off the tube if not properly installed). Third, the gas milage actually decreased when I installed it (even when I controlled my right foot), making me wonder if the engine was running rich. That's actually when I decided to get a set of tunes to ensure it was getting proper mixture.

Now, the filter issue was addressed by getting a K&N universal filter, and I'm planning on addressing the heat shield issue with a dremmel tool to make the opening for the intake tube a little wider to allow for more movement and flexibility (especially a problem with the new filter). The third problem was taken care of with the tunes. I don't think the A/F ratio was too far off using the jumper harness, but without the proper equipement to test, I'll never know. By the way, wouldn't the computer pick up A/F problems from the readouts of the O2 sensors? (even if it were improperly reading the MAF)

 

First off, because GMS requires both his re-calibrated MAF and jumper harness to be used and second ? the factory wiring harness, is set up and calibrated for only the factory MAF otherwise, there would be no purpose for his jumper harness, in the first place..Therefore, I strongly recommend that you get your Air/Fuel checked on a dyno, just to make certain that your not running beyond a lean 13.0 A/F ratio..just my $.02

 

Well, I wont go into it in detail but just do a search on the intake on this forum and you'll see the exact reason stated many times over. Start around 10/06-11/06

As for the MAF, it will adjust at closed throttle and part throttle ONLY when the engine is warmed up, not at cold start. It WILL NOT adjust at WOT where you need to worry about it the most, the engine runs off the settings inside the PCM and if this isn't properly setup can cause issues.

thanks, Doug