I had my throttle body replaced under warranty [code 0506 low idle control sensor] yesterday. Now my idles seems way too high, over a 1000rpm at start, though it goes down to about 900 to 850 with time [per the factory tach]. It was too low before and the car would stall when I put the AC on at idle [or at a light or on the freeway when I got stuck in traffic]. I'd think 650 or so would be about right.

I am wondering if the computer simply needs to "re-learn" for a while, or if I should be messing around with my tuner to set the low idle down?

I am running a WMS CAI with ram-air plate and Xcal-2 91 octane tune from Brenspeed. I also have a Jet TB spacer.

Mike E

 

the TB spacer is worthless and the tune can alter where the car idles....you can set it yourself with the tuner.

 

Thats sounds normal to me. My idle hangs around 1200 rpm then slowly drops to about 800rpm.

 

Ditto here, isn't this why the TB was replaced in the first place?

 

when i cold start the car it takes a little bit to drop.

 

i beg to differ!

 

Stock idle is set at around 750-800 when warm, and will be around 1100-1300 when cold, 1500 when really cold. This is in neutral, if you have an auto the rpms will be around 650 in gear.

 

I have a 5-speed, and it is higher than that and it is also higher than it was when the car was new. I think 650 is good as you noted. I'm in SoCal where it never gets cold. I'll take a shot at resetting it with my Xcal-2 tuner. I don't recall that as an option on the menu, but I will have to look again.

BTW In response to one of the other posts, the TB was replaced because the idle air control went way too low, causing the car to stall whenever I took my foot off the pedal in neutral and it is not adjustable.

Mike E

 

The 650 is only correct if you have an auto, and it is in drive. When the auto is in neutral, it will be more like 750-800. In a manual, (both manual and auto trannys are 5 speeds, so you saying '5 speed' doesn't help) the rpms will be about 750-800 in neutral. 650 is not correct for a manual.

 

Oookay. Mine is a standard transmission. When the idle was "too low" it was around 650, and that was fine and even saved fuel.

 

Then you can use the X-Cal to dial the idle down if you wish. I personally would not, but it's your car. I don't see any major problems with doing so.

 

150rpms at idle saving gas... I just dont understand this. The broken part had you idling at 650 and would stall, but the new one fixes it to the EXACT way it should be at 800, yet you want it back at 650. Just call the dealer and put the broken part back on, duh

 

even with an auto i am keeping it at around 800 at idle and 700 in gear and not moving

 

I know that when I first got my tunes from doug, the sct had an issue with there software that would cause a high idle and take a while to come down, called doug, he said he had figured it out, and sent me a new tune. Idle was then normal all the way around. I think its the sct tune you have. Good luck

 

I will check into it. Thanks.
Mike E

 

Kevin,
Funny... Try about 400 or less with the bad part so no AC when stuck in traffic at 90+ degrees for an hour or two. I coast down a nearly 20 mile long mountain pass three times a week at idle and live on the side of a mountain as well. It's the difference between 21.4 and 19.0 mpg per tank. It adds up, so why not? This with 285 40-18s in back and 85 to 90 going up that same hill each time.

Regardless, it's a personal preference thing.