ADudeInNewJersey

Hey everyone... I was just wondering what can I do to the stock 4.6 motor that we have in our stangs to make out every HP it has... For example I will need... Ported and polished heads.. Cams...??? What else?.. {Please be specific in which exact product to buy}. Im planning on working on the Motor as much as I can b4 inserting a blower on it. I know I can get a new and better motor but I rather just use this 4.6.. Anyways.. Thanks for any help everyone!


-John

LAK3RS

- SCT XCal II
- Custom Tune
- Tekskid Block/Stock Aluminum Block
- Livernois Heads
- JE Pistons
- Manley Rods
- Cobra 8-Bolt Crankshaft
- Comp Cams w/Springs & Retainers
- 298/302 Stroker

All the above is just a small list of what you can do. The thing is that the type of piston or cam will vary on where you want your car to be...

- C&L "Racer" Intake
- Lightning 90mm MAF
- GT500 60mm Throttle Body w/Spacer
- FRPP/Steeda Control Motion Delete Plates
- Steeda Pulleys
- Mezeire H20 Pump
- ARH/Kooks Headers
- Spark Plugs


Then of course the rest of the parts are for pretty much getting the power to the ground ie. suspension, drivline, etc. You'll also want to upgrade your fuel system, ignition, tranny, radiator, oil pan, etc. Just various parts here and there that WILL add up.

There's my contribution now take what I have given you and do some research for yourself...

- Justin

don_w

IMO, some things you would do to maximize N/A power would be detrimental on a blown motor. For example, raising compression ratio would help N/A, but not be good for FI. Same could be said for cam shaft selection. A twin screw blower makes good low end torque, so the cam profile for it would likely have a different grind than a cam for N/A. Also, I'm not a fan of stroked motors for blowers, but others have no problem with it.

2006GT500

Get a Big Bore Stroker motor from VT.

mustangfan123

N/A capability with stock motor(unchanged internals):
-C&L Racer w/ 95mm MAF + SCT X2
-GT500 TB w/ Spacer
-FAST,Trickflow,or C&L Intake Manifold
-Steeda CMDP's(only if you don't get a new intake manifold)
-Steeda,Motoblue,Roush,or SLP Pullies
-Comp,Crane,Crower,or BBR Cams w/ springs & retainers
-Foxlake,Livernois,Tillmanspeed,or Sutton Ported Heads
-Stainless Works,Kooks,ARH LT's
-Spark Plugs
-Meizere Electric Water Pump


Suspension & Driveline:
-LCA's
-UCA's
-A-arms
-K-member
-Tubular Radiator Support
-Aluminum Driveshaft
-Gears
-Panhard Bars
-Swaybars
-Drop Spindles
-Bumpsteer
-Trailing Arms
-Springs
-Shocks
-Struts
-Stabilizer Bars
-Subframe Connectors
-Anti Roll Bars
-Braces

Transmission:
-Shifter
-Clutch
-Aluminum Flywheel

Fuel System:
-Fuel Filter
-Fuel Pump
-Fuel Rails
-Fuel Injectors

ADudeInNewJersey

Thanks everyone... it seems like a rich fantasy to have a powerful N/A Motor.. My best bet would be to get a fully built short block and get a kenne bell.... It seems like the ultimate bang for your buck...

-John

mustangfan123

I mean you dont have to use every part I listed, you could just do the majority of them and still have a low 12 second to high 11 second car. Here's what I think is a good combo for people who want to have a fast N/A car with a stock motor, but don't want to spend a fortune to do so:
-C&L Racer w/ 95mm MAF + SCT X2 $600
-GT500 TB w/ Spacer $400
-FAST,Trickflow,or C&L Intake Manifold est. $700
-Steeda CMDP's(only if you don't get a new intake manifold) $150
-Steeda,Roush,or SLP Pullies $200
-Comp,Crane,Crower,or BBR Cams w/ springs & retainers $1000
-Foxlake,Livernois,Tillmanspeed,or Sutton Ported Heads $2415 + $800 core charge
-Stainless Works,Kooks,ARH LT's $1460
-Spark Plugs $95
-Meizere Electric Water Pump $335

Suspension & Driveline:
-LCA's $135
-UCA's $144
-K-member $340
-Tubular Radiator Support $170
-Aluminum Driveshaft $480
-Gears $200

Transmission:
-Shifter $180(Hurst) or $295(MGW)
-Clutch + Aluminum Flywheel $690

Total: $10209(not including install costs and tuning)

I know it may seem super expensive,but it is a project you do one step at a time,not like someone who is getting a supercharger and forged internals,takes it to the shop,hands them the car,and pays the money all at once.

On the bright side,since you already have some mods from that list, you can cut alot ($2000+) off from that total.And if you Do-It-Yourself on most of the mods(Intake,Headers,Pullies,CMDP's,Driveshaft,LCA' s,UCA's,K-Member,Tubular Radiator Support,Shifter,Water Pump,Intake Manifold,Spark Plugs), you will save alot on installation costs.