Vegas, you are correct. The balance with the computer is somewhat delicate. Also, check engine light came on as soon as my mmr was installed. I already knew it would prolly cause a problem so I had an appointment for my first flash the next weekend.

 

For those of you that are concerned about an engine light should try my "poor mans air box" mod. I have put on 4K with this mod & my mufflers delete & I have more power, mpg & no check engine light.

The air filter is getting a nice even coating of dirt, versus when their in OE air boxes you sometimes get an area that is very heavy with dirt where the air enters the box.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=10674

 

SOLUTION



Gain horsepower and torque with this straightforward upgrade. Lifetime filter can be cleaned and re-oiled, but the big news here is that we've streamlined the airflow in the 05 Mustang to the point that a computer re-flash isn't just an option, it's required! Check out the SCT Xcalibrator - the perfect tool for the job!

Adds: 26.7 H.P.
22.0 lb.ft Torque

Dyno charts to follow!
Anyone that sells you a kit without telling you they need a computer re-flash is very mistaken.

 

I agree.

 

Seems like everything calls for a reflash these days.

 

 

Well I just ordered the SCT Xcalibrator.....man, my wife is gonna ban me from this website forever

 

If you don't get murdered, you'll be happy you ordered it!

 

The solution to the MMR intake is to unplug the negative connection to your battery overnight. Plug it back in the next morning. Then, turn the car on and let it idle for no less than 5 minutes. Worked for me. And you don't absolutely need to tune the computer after installing this kit. It's recommended, sure. And eventually I will get the SCT. I'll give them another couple months to get all the tunes and then order. That will give me time to do anything else, like pulleys, etc...

 

I did that, but my gas mileage still dropped. I was getting the tune anyway, so no big deal

 

I just finished installing the kit...so far, knock on wood, the check engine light has not come on. I followed the instructions that say "disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before installing the kit......once complete reconnect the battery, start the car and let it idle for several minutes.

I let my car idle for approx 4 minutes and then went for a 2 mile drive. According to MMR's installation sheet they say that the light may come on and that there are working with some tuners to fix this issue. No where does it say you need to get a tune. I am getting one anyway but I will still drive around with this installed until I do.

 

Adrenalin... when I first installed mine a couple weeks ago, I followed the directions like you, and the engine light did not come on. But, the car kept beeping... same noise it makes when a door is open. Not too often when I would go fast, but it would beep every couple seconds when you were going slow. I ended up opening the door then half closing it, and that stopped the beeping. When I finally got home, I disconnected the negative from the battery overnight and that seemed to fix it. Try that if anything happens (not trying to jinx you here). But a tune is a good idea. I'm sure it will let the intake gain a few more horses, as well as get you better gas mileage.

 

I spoke to soon. I drove for 2 days without the engine light coming on, then it happened. However, I know why. I gunned it and as soon as I did that the light came on. I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes, reconnected and as long as I don't gun it I should be fine. My SCT kit should be in last next week...unless customs holds onto it for a day....bad customs,,,bad.

 

Adrenalin, I drove mine for a week before I got the tune. Having the light on won't hurt anything. It's just telling us something is out-of-whak...out of balance. I believe you will be pleased once you put the tuner on her.

 

Got my SCT xcalibrator today....no more engine light

 

Check out this thread.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...=0&#entry206586

Finally C&L states that their system also requires a tune....an answer most of us have known all along.

 

Hi Everyone, just wanted to clear up a few questions in peoples minds and let everyone know we are here if anyone has any questions.Before I start let me give you a brief descripton of my background in Mass Air sensing technology, I have worked as a tech for the only company in the world that produces aftremarket electronically calibrated mass air flow sensors. The MMR mass airflow sensor went through close to 75 diameter changes trying to optimize the kit with the factory tune, our primary concern was to have our kit work out of the box with no other mods. The adaptive strategy of the 05' Computer made this difficult but not impossible, after much R&D we settled on the design that you all have today. Is the tune needed with an MMR kit?, no, BUT we have seen larger gains WITH them and recommend them for peak power. On the dyno just last week a stock 05' GT with our kit and the HC trap still installed made 8RWHP more, this seems to be about the average gain with no other mods, the air fuel ratio was between 12.5 and 13.1 to 1 at WOT (very safe for a naturally aspirated car and the same as our 2 test vehicles so we know that are meters are VERY consistent).

The over oiling issue: Working in the mass air field we have know this to be a issue for over 15 years. Simply put the oil from the filter clings to the sensing element and can give incorrect readings to the ECU. We have spoken to S&B filters (our supplier) about oiling and they have assured us that the filters are properly oiled from the factory, as with any oil type filter though small particles can sometimes be pulled from the filter element and stick on the mass air sensor, this can sometimes trigger a check engine light, thankfully a small amount of rubbing alchohol can clean them and restore performance immediately. For those that have purchased the cleaner kit from us be very carefull not to over-oil.


Lastly the new Sheild and Inlet tube will be ready in a few weeks, we tested both aluminum and plastic and have settled on the smooth plastic design because it does not heat sink like the aluminum tube which eventually adds to the inlet air temp reducing HP and the plastic was less than 1/3 the weight of the aluminum tube. Those that already own the standard Annihilitor kit will be able to upgrade to this for a reasonable and discounted price.

Please feel free to call us if you have any tech questions, we are here to help and stand behind all of our products.

Mark Luton
Owner
MMR

 

What benefits do you see on the dyno with the new inlet tube???

 

I'm curious also what the additional gains with the new plastic inlet tube (if any).