I am considering my next purchase, a pair of Mickey Thompson 3743R from summit racing.
I made the following assumptions...
They will mount on the stock, yet ugly 17" upgrade rims, even though they are 8" rim,
no tube is needed,
I should run 16-20 psi,
I should be able to drive the 30 miles on the m to the track.

Where am I wrong? Should I go with the bias ply 3743?

 

All of the above will work with the 3743R series...... all of the above will also work with the 3743 although I would not drive those to the track.

 

You arent wrong for any of those assumptions. I have driven with the exact same setup (drag radials) 90 miles round trip on the interstate with no problems. The only thing is the 275's are a bit wide for the factory rims. The rear seems a bit spongy if you are going in a straight line and wiggle the steering wheel. Other than that...no problems. They hook up awesome on pavement or the track!

 

The biasply ones are stickier which will net you better 60' times. I drop mine down to 13 and launch at 5500-6000. You are correct on all your other assumptions. I drive 30 miles to the track with them at 25 PSI. Just don't get stuck in the rain, if there's even a chance put your other tires in the trunk and chain them to a light pole at the track

 

A few more questions:
1. Water box: I pull through the box or should I drive around and back into it? Do I car that my front tires are wet? Without line locks, should I just slip the clutch from 4.2k(TQ peak) in first gear and see if I move or not? Or is there another safe way to heat up the tires without line locks? Do I do it every run?
2. Convertible top: when will the track typically expect a 6 pt. cage in the car? The local 1/8 mile track does no inspection. The Rock, 1/4 mile track, I expect does. Can I sneak through with a 4 pt. road race setup?

 

Unless you're running skinnies up front, pull around and back into it. Street tires will pick up too much water and drag it onto the track. As for the roll bar, not sure about that, might be good with the 4 point. I know that faster cars need 6 point roll bars (e.t of 11.5 or quicker, I think) so you might be good with what you have.

 

the only way to do a good burnout with slicks is to drop the clutch out at the highest rpm you can in second gear. You want rotational speed, not power

 

NHRA rule book says 5 point for a vert going faster than 13.50. I'm having a 5 point bar fabbed up for mine. Driver door bar can be removable. It can be a bolt in with 6" backing plates.