Lowering springs??
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Lowering springs??
Really don't know what springs to buy... It's a toss up between sport line or pro kit
The only difference that I can see is the pro kit will have the backend sitting a half inch taller than the sportline... The front end should be about the same...
Can someone please help me decide
The only difference that I can see is the pro kit will have the backend sitting a half inch taller than the sportline... The front end should be about the same...
Can someone please help me decide
#2
Can I interest you in our Sport springs that are still on sale for 15% off. Our springs will give you a drop of 1 inch in the front and 1 1/4 in the rear.
These springs will give you a more aggressive look, better handling, and reduction in nose dive.
Steeda springs were developed in conjunction with Ford Motor Company engineers through our SEMA technology transfer program. You know you are going to get great quality and superior products when you buy from Steeda.
We have 3 sets with different drops and handling abilities. Take a look, see if you like them, and let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
TJ
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-s...d-mustang.html
These springs will give you a more aggressive look, better handling, and reduction in nose dive.
Steeda springs were developed in conjunction with Ford Motor Company engineers through our SEMA technology transfer program. You know you are going to get great quality and superior products when you buy from Steeda.
We have 3 sets with different drops and handling abilities. Take a look, see if you like them, and let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
TJ
http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-s...d-mustang.html
#3
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Even if I go through you I still have the same problem... I have an 07 GT for my daily.... And I love the look of 1.4 drop in the front and 1.7 in the rear.... (sport line equivalent ) but will the drop be too rough for a daily?
#4
I have Steeda Sport paired with Koni STR.T and they work great on a daily. They are firmer but not harsh. That combo comes highly recommended from many people.
#6
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Join Date: April 13, 2011
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Pro Kit on old shocks doesn't work well. Once I put some D Specs on the ride is great. Koni orange and yellow would probably do the same. I had 72k miles on mine when I put the springs on. The shocks are exposed when you lower the car.
#11
Are you going to put on struts/shocks? If you are anywhere near 50K I would suggest it. If you are set on coilovers, than at least try to find some lower cost dampers to freshen up the factory. They are pretty bad and seem to go dead at like 30K. Especially the rear.
#12
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Yea I'm at 47k... I was trying to hold out on spending too much on stuff I'll eventually scrap anyway... But if anything I'll get the tokicko (sp wrong... Don't care) 5 way adj
Im ignorant when it comes to susp. How much is what u just said to get?
Im ignorant when it comes to susp. How much is what u just said to get?
#13
I think I paid like 300-350 for the Koni STR.T set with a sale at tirerack.com a year or two ago. Sam Strano that posts here is a dealer for Koni also and usually has a good deal. The Tokico set are more expensive. eg. http://www.brenspeed.com/dsp12.html
The Koni yellows are adjustable also but probably higher quality. I'd think about how long you want to wait for the coilovers and look at how many miles you will be running until then. Keep in mind a spring install is also a shock/strut install as you need to remove them to load the springs. I'd say you don't need a coilover set unless you are doing competition. Get a good matching shock for your springs and use the money elsewhere. (Camber/Toe correction.) (My opinion.) It looks like most coilover kits don't provide any real advantage to a good matching spring/shock/strut mount combo. (On a daily driver.) You are paying for the tune-ability for competition use. If you want to get into competition and change things up for the track then it can be a different story. I think there are even rules to different modification levels. - You might even be able to upgrade your setup to a coilover if you buy the right stuff now. Add the ride height adjustments down the road and the springs and shocks now.
The Koni yellows are adjustable also but probably higher quality. I'd think about how long you want to wait for the coilovers and look at how many miles you will be running until then. Keep in mind a spring install is also a shock/strut install as you need to remove them to load the springs. I'd say you don't need a coilover set unless you are doing competition. Get a good matching shock for your springs and use the money elsewhere. (Camber/Toe correction.) (My opinion.) It looks like most coilover kits don't provide any real advantage to a good matching spring/shock/strut mount combo. (On a daily driver.) You are paying for the tune-ability for competition use. If you want to get into competition and change things up for the track then it can be a different story. I think there are even rules to different modification levels. - You might even be able to upgrade your setup to a coilover if you buy the right stuff now. Add the ride height adjustments down the road and the springs and shocks now.
Last edited by randy_tho; 12/29/11 at 09:29 PM.
#14
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
I'm limited on funds... I have around $200 left and I can't afford shocks and struts... So Im kinds screwed... Hope for the best I guess... I will be looking to buy em next... But w a wife and two kids who knows how long it will take me to get em :-(
#15
Shelby GT350 Member
Originally Posted by silversky545
I'm limited on funds... I have around $200 left and I can't afford shocks and struts... So Im kinds screwed... Hope for the best I guess... I will be looking to buy em next... But w a wife and two kids who knows how long it will take me to get em :-(
#17
Are you doing the installation yourself? If so that will save some money. If you don't work on your car much, this may not be the place to start.
After the springs you will need an alignment performed or you will chew through tires and that will be another 250 bucks every few months. With drops there is a chance the rear will go to one side and then in the front, camber goes negative and this usually affects toe. You will wear the inside edge of your tires pretty quick. There are corrections that can be taken. The most inexpensive are some camber bolts and modified strut by slightly drilling on the,mount hole. This would be done by the alignment shop. Toe is adjusted with the tie rod ends and doesn't require purchasing extra gear. The rear if needed would require an adjustable panhard to center the axle with the body. Guys can get by without them but there is a spec the shop should check. Finally with more drop you start running into pinion angle with the drive shaft and this is supposed to be a non issue with the height you are looking at. It is corrected with adjustable control arms. If you do the install yourself you should use a torque wrench on the suspension bolts and you can rent a strut compress tool from autozone for free after return with deposit. There is a ton of info on here about lowering so you may want to read up on it to make informed decisions about the course of action you want to take. I believe there is a good sticky for this topic.
After the springs you will need an alignment performed or you will chew through tires and that will be another 250 bucks every few months. With drops there is a chance the rear will go to one side and then in the front, camber goes negative and this usually affects toe. You will wear the inside edge of your tires pretty quick. There are corrections that can be taken. The most inexpensive are some camber bolts and modified strut by slightly drilling on the,mount hole. This would be done by the alignment shop. Toe is adjusted with the tie rod ends and doesn't require purchasing extra gear. The rear if needed would require an adjustable panhard to center the axle with the body. Guys can get by without them but there is a spec the shop should check. Finally with more drop you start running into pinion angle with the drive shaft and this is supposed to be a non issue with the height you are looking at. It is corrected with adjustable control arms. If you do the install yourself you should use a torque wrench on the suspension bolts and you can rent a strut compress tool from autozone for free after return with deposit. There is a ton of info on here about lowering so you may want to read up on it to make informed decisions about the course of action you want to take. I believe there is a good sticky for this topic.
#18
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
My nabor has a lift in his garage and has every tool possible... Including a spring compressor... I hope to god everything is ok after install... All I have is around $200 what should I buy to make sure non of the above happeneds?
#19
I'd say the cheapest is a set of these bolts and a quote from a good alignment shop. Most around here cost 70 bucks for a 4 wheel. The mustang doesn't have adjustment in the rear but they can check the dogtracking with the lower springs on the rear axle. If it is out you can get an adjustable panhard and drop line it yourself. I think those may be like 100-150. Yours may be fine with the 1.5" drop.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...justment-Bolts
The higher quality way would be a set of upper strut mounts with adjustment but they are over 200. Also be careful when disassembling the front struts and don't lose the bearings out of the upper mounts. They are supposed to be one time use but can be repacked if necessary.
https://themustangsource.com/f669/st...mplete-432409/
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...justment-Bolts
The higher quality way would be a set of upper strut mounts with adjustment but they are over 200. Also be careful when disassembling the front struts and don't lose the bearings out of the upper mounts. They are supposed to be one time use but can be repacked if necessary.
https://themustangsource.com/f669/st...mplete-432409/
#20
Bullitt Member
Personally, I'm always a fan of the Eibach Pro Kit. It has really become the standard for most vehicles these days, but the awesome thing is that Eibach still takes the time to develop them and spend weeks and months with their Mustangs to make the best possible kit they can offer. The quality is really un-matched, and that's why Ford Racing chose Eibach to private label their springs.
It's really a matter of opinion, but Eibach Springs, FRPP Springs, H&R Springs - you can't really go wrong!
Keep in mind that AM will match any advertised price from a reputable competitor, and we'll ship it for FREE, the very same day! Every day, we offer a 6% forums discount for you guys here at TMS, and you just have to PM me to get the discount code if you've got over 50 posts (which we consider an active member). We also have a military discount for anyone that calls us up and uses their military email. Between this discount and our price matching, we'll always be the same price, if not cheaper, than any of our competitors!
Enjoy whatever springs you decide to go with! Hit me up if you have any questions at all!
It's really a matter of opinion, but Eibach Springs, FRPP Springs, H&R Springs - you can't really go wrong!
Keep in mind that AM will match any advertised price from a reputable competitor, and we'll ship it for FREE, the very same day! Every day, we offer a 6% forums discount for you guys here at TMS, and you just have to PM me to get the discount code if you've got over 50 posts (which we consider an active member). We also have a military discount for anyone that calls us up and uses their military email. Between this discount and our price matching, we'll always be the same price, if not cheaper, than any of our competitors!
Enjoy whatever springs you decide to go with! Hit me up if you have any questions at all!