Lower control arms
#61
Originally posted by 169stang@December 10, 2005, 9:57 PM
I don't think it's all in the bushing. I think there's flex in the stamped steel as well.
I replaced the upper so that I could adjust the pinion angle. Of course changing the pinion angle is for optimal launch.
I don't think it's all in the bushing. I think there's flex in the stamped steel as well.
I replaced the upper so that I could adjust the pinion angle. Of course changing the pinion angle is for optimal launch.
#62
Im not sure Im reading the above comment correctly.
Are you saying that the stock Lower Control Arms are just as good as the BMR Adjustable Race Units?
Stamped Steel (stock) LCAs can wind up and flex during hard launching. This is plain once you compare them to anything else thats an "upgrade".
-Dan
Are you saying that the stock Lower Control Arms are just as good as the BMR Adjustable Race Units?
Stamped Steel (stock) LCAs can wind up and flex during hard launching. This is plain once you compare them to anything else thats an "upgrade".
-Dan
#63
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Originally posted by Cleveland@December 23, 2005, 6:39 PM
Im not sure Im reading the above comment correctly.
Are you saying that the stock Lower Control Arms are just as good as the BMR Adjustable Race Units?
Stamped Steel (stock) LCAs can wind up and flex during hard launching. This is plain once you compare them to anything else thats an "upgrade".
-Dan
Im not sure Im reading the above comment correctly.
Are you saying that the stock Lower Control Arms are just as good as the BMR Adjustable Race Units?
Stamped Steel (stock) LCAs can wind up and flex during hard launching. This is plain once you compare them to anything else thats an "upgrade".
-Dan
The rubber bushings in the stock LCA is the weak link on the track.
I still don't get any wheelhop with the stock LCA's but I have a Steeda Upper Third link.
#65
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QUESTION FOR UCA USERS:
For those who have the BMR upper control arm, when removing the gas tank, did you or did you not have the 13mm bolts that held the gas tank straps??
If you have the 13MM bolts, do you have the old gas tank (TSB) or the new gas tank installed??
I have the new gas tank on mine, when me and "cheese302" went to drop the gas tank, they were not held on by 13MM bolts, they were held on by TORX BOLTS. Just wanted to see if people with the new gas tanks were replaced with these bolts instead of 13MM bolts. If not, my dealer messed up big time.....
For those who have the BMR upper control arm, when removing the gas tank, did you or did you not have the 13mm bolts that held the gas tank straps??
If you have the 13MM bolts, do you have the old gas tank (TSB) or the new gas tank installed??
I have the new gas tank on mine, when me and "cheese302" went to drop the gas tank, they were not held on by 13MM bolts, they were held on by TORX BOLTS. Just wanted to see if people with the new gas tanks were replaced with these bolts instead of 13MM bolts. If not, my dealer messed up big time.....
#67
Got my LCA and relocation brackets today and a few other goodies from BMR to go along with some other stuff I cant put on the car untill I get it :bang:
Thanks for the info in this topic
Thanks for the info in this topic
#68
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Originally posted by MaverickMLFD371@December 28, 2005, 8:29 AM
QUESTION FOR UCA USERS:
For those who have the BMR upper control arm, when removing the gas tank, did you or did you not have the 13mm bolts that held the gas tank straps??
If you have the 13MM bolts, do you have the old gas tank (TSB) or the new gas tank installed??
I have the new gas tank on mine, when me and "cheese302" went to drop the gas tank, they were not held on by 13MM bolts, they were held on by TORX BOLTS. Just wanted to see if people with the new gas tanks were replaced with these bolts instead of 13MM bolts. If not, my dealer messed up big time.....
QUESTION FOR UCA USERS:
For those who have the BMR upper control arm, when removing the gas tank, did you or did you not have the 13mm bolts that held the gas tank straps??
If you have the 13MM bolts, do you have the old gas tank (TSB) or the new gas tank installed??
I have the new gas tank on mine, when me and "cheese302" went to drop the gas tank, they were not held on by 13MM bolts, they were held on by TORX BOLTS. Just wanted to see if people with the new gas tanks were replaced with these bolts instead of 13MM bolts. If not, my dealer messed up big time.....
No tank lowering required. Remove rear seat and loosen the bolt dead center that holds the third link bracket. This enables the removal of the third link bolt.
#69
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I have the race only fully adjustable BMR lowers.They are installed with Strange engineering Shocks.have not driven the car yet since its winter here now.I am assuming the rearend noise will be moderate seeming i have no bushings just sepherical rod ends.
#70
I never heard of strange engineering shocks....why did you go with those over the others?
I just got the poly LCA...from what I have read they were probably good enough for me. I dont plan to be on the track that much if at all. I just hate wheel hop and I want the back tires to plant and grab.
I just got the poly LCA...from what I have read they were probably good enough for me. I dont plan to be on the track that much if at all. I just hate wheel hop and I want the back tires to plant and grab.
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Originally posted by thump_rrr@December 29, 2005, 1:08 AM
No tank lowering required. Remove rear seat and loosen the bolt dead center that holds the third link bracket. This enables the removal of the third link bolt.
No tank lowering required. Remove rear seat and loosen the bolt dead center that holds the third link bracket. This enables the removal of the third link bolt.
Thump_rrr
You think you can give me a buzz on the phone and explain how you got the control arm without dropping the gas tank? I got the part number for the torx bit to remove the bolt to drop the gas tank. Lee @ BMR says its impossible to get it off without dropping the tank, but with your input and what not, maybe you can prove him wrong....
Save me $27 for just the bit that I'm probably going to use once.
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Originally posted by MaverickMLFD371@December 29, 2005, 9:23 AM
Thump_rrr
You think you can give me a buzz on the phone and explain how you got the control arm without dropping the gas tank?
I got the part number for the torx bit to remove the bolt to drop the gas tank.
Lee @ BMR says its impossible to get it off without dropping the tank,
but with your input and what not, maybe you can prove him wrong....
Save me $27 for just the bit that I'm probably going to use once.
Thump_rrr
You think you can give me a buzz on the phone and explain how you got the control arm without dropping the gas tank?
I got the part number for the torx bit to remove the bolt to drop the gas tank.
Lee @ BMR says its impossible to get it off without dropping the tank,
but with your input and what not, maybe you can prove him wrong....
Save me $27 for just the bit that I'm probably going to use once.
Hey Paul,
Here is the writeup on how to do the impossible including some pics.
1) Jack up rear of car from the center of the differential. Yeah I know Ford tells you not to do it.
Be careful not to catch the diff cover with the jack.
2)Place jackstands under stock jacking locations under rocker panels.
Lower jack just enough for the jackstands to take the weight of the vehicle without lowering the differential.
Disconnect the center links of the rear sway bar. Disconnect lower shock mounting bolts.
3) Remove rear seat and loosen upper link bracket as much as possible.
4) Lower differential as low as it goes
5) Remove 2 remaining bolts holding upper link bracket under the car.
6) Remove bolt connecting upper control arm to differential
7) Remove bolt holding third link to upper link bracket
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Tell Lee @ BMR he can send me a set of their Control Arm Relocation Brackets in exchange for the lesson if he likes.
I'll even do A writeup on how to install them without removing your differential.
I hope this helps.
Peter
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