Koni SRT.T Install problems - HELP
#1
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Koni SRT.T Install problems - HELP
SoI have the Koni SRT.t's, Steeda Sports and Steeda HD Upper Strut Mounts. I'm having an issue torqueing (is that a word?) the main nut at the top of the strut. Not the 4 top nuts that hold it all to the body, just the center nut that connects to the strut rod. The rod is spinning when I turn the nut so I have to put a small wrench on the end of the rod and tighten the nut with an open end wrench.
Anyone else have this issue? How do I know I torqued the nut enough if I can't put the torque wrench on.
I actually had the same issue on the rear shocks.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Anyone else have this issue? How do I know I torqued the nut enough if I can't put the torque wrench on.
I actually had the same issue on the rear shocks.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
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You can buy crows feet which is basically an open ended wrench with the handle cut off and a square hole cut so you can attach it to a torque wrench. Get one at advance auto parts or autozone, they're cheap there. I used locktite too because mine kept losening up
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I usually use a cordless impact with a lower torque rating so I don't destroy the threads on the strut by over-tightening (did that on a car a few years back, it was a mess to get off).
I've also used two open end wrenches to tighten down the top nuts in the past, as well as a 1/4" socket on the small hex inside a 1/2" socket on the large nut. Usually once you get the top nut on pretty tight by hand, the shaft will stop spinning, and you can put a torque wrench on it to set the proper torque.
I've also used two open end wrenches to tighten down the top nuts in the past, as well as a 1/4" socket on the small hex inside a 1/2" socket on the large nut. Usually once you get the top nut on pretty tight by hand, the shaft will stop spinning, and you can put a torque wrench on it to set the proper torque.
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Thanks everyone - here's a few pics - before the drop is on top.
Looks like I need an adj. PHB - she's shifted towards the passenger side for sure. I had the car aligned but she's pulling to the right pretty aggressively, the rear wouldn't have anything to do with that right?
Looks like I need an adj. PHB - she's shifted towards the passenger side for sure. I had the car aligned but she's pulling to the right pretty aggressively, the rear wouldn't have anything to do with that right?
Last edited by Fords4Ever; 6/22/11 at 10:22 AM.
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If the rear isn't centered then the car can pull to one side. I used the Steeda adj. panhard bar and it worked great. It'll help keep the axle under control as well being stiffer with poly bushings.
I thought I remember my axle shifting the other way though...
I thought I remember my axle shifting the other way though...
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Ok I forgot to mention I took a road trip to Chicago right after the install and here are my impressions:
I want to thank Sam Strano for his help as well. This was a purchase well worth the wait!
- Stiffer for sure but not too harsh (wife may not agree though
- Everything feels tighter and much more in control!
- Very good upgrade and reasonable for a DD
- However if I lived in Chicago again I'd probably have to go back to stock springs - the roads are SO BAD there I'm not sure if I could live with it. I've only been gone 3 years and they are even worse then I remember!
I want to thank Sam Strano for his help as well. This was a purchase well worth the wait!
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Alignment Corrected!
She still pulls to the right but that may be because the rear is shifted to the passenger side. However I thought visually that there was more negative camber after the alginment and also a vibration above 70 mph and I was right. Check out the before and after:
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