Only had to cut one side of stock pipes - other side was bolted. Undid those, dropped the pipes behind the midpiece, slid the x-pipe on (with some tugging and adjusting the hangars), bolted it all up, voila!

 

Sorry I'm only posting one pic at a time, btw - size limitation is low and I have bad tools for resizing/compressing. Hope it's not annoying...

Finally, gears. The guy was real good - went very quickly, with robotic-like moves. You can tell he had done this once or twice before. Took 'em for a test drive when he was done down the block and back and said they were perfect. I have not noticed any noise from them. 4.10s - good stuff...

 

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Not a wonderful picture, but thought the environment might be interesting - parked in Brooklyn tonight. I garage her, but got home late (the garage is far enough away that I ride my bike to go get my car and ride back when I park it) and didn't feel like parking tonight. Gives me an excuse to drive her tomorrow anyway.

OK, I've had my fun - hope you like the pics. Sorry if the multiple posts offends you in any way. B)

 

You have the same negative as me... loosen the nut visible in the picture and off it pops.

 

Here is what you do. By the way nice pics and mods.

 

I for one enjoyed the pics. The exhaust adds a certain personality to the car all it's own. Increases the fun of driving it!

 

of course somtimes the problem is the loose nut between the seat and the steering wheel

you know looking at the terminal configuration it would be easier to dissconnect the positive side. i would allways recomend dissconnecting the negative first but if i was to do it on my own car i think that positive side would be the one hanging off the battery.

 

I have 1/0 AWG connected to my positive terminal, so the negative is easiest for me. Like pointed out, loosed that nut on the negative terminal and just pull it off for a little while to reset the computer.

 

Geeze - after all this hassle... - I actually did try unscrewing that, but still couldn't get it to budge (I even used a flathead screwdriver to try to get some leverage). Guess it's just stuck in there good. I'll give it some more elbow grease. Thanks for all the helpful comments and pardon my stupidity.

Thanks for the comments on the pictures.

 

No I do not think its loose enough. See if you can't twist it a little after it loose then it will pop right off. Too bad you did not have the BMR lower control arms to install at this time as I am sure it would have been a free install because it was all open under there at that time. Mine was free. Only have to remove four new ( not rusted ) bolts and put the arms in place. Nice looking pipes!

 

After you undo the 8mm nut, take a thin flat-bladed screwdriver and insert it vertically between the two sides (at the back) of the upper flange of the terminal and wiggle it side to side a bit. Then you can easily pull the connector off.

That flange acts like the old lead post terminals to clamp on to the battery terminal and like them the pressure needs to be relieved. That's what the action with the screwdriver does. From an electrical standpoint it is always most correct to undo only the negative side as was noted earlier. You need only disconnect one side to break the circuit.

 

I stick a rag or shop towel between the post and wire after I take it off as it wants to return to connected position. Piece of cake guy!!!