Installed Champion Plugs
#301
For the anti-seize does it need to be Nickel based or can it be the normal anti-seize spec'd for aluminum engines?
Permatex® - Anti-Seize Lubricant - NFPA Fire Code 30B Level 3 A heavy duty blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants in a petroleum base. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Inert, will not evaporate or harden in extreme temperatures. Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant. Temperature range -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec A-907. Suggested Applications: Boiler and oven parts, gears, chains, cables, sprockets, levers, pivots, rollers, valve stems, jet engines, industrial turbines.
or
Permatex® - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricants Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures of to 2400°F (1316°C). Copper-free, use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys. Suggested Applications: Drop forge dies and hammers, catalyst bed and reaction chamber supports. Slow rotating bearings in hot corrosive environments. Lubricate and seal pipe threads in acid environments. Coat gaskets in high temperature applications. Lubricate conveyor chains, chemical plant bolts for pump housing and pipe flanges.
Seems like either would be fine?
or
Permatex® - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricants Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures of to 2400°F (1316°C). Copper-free, use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys. Suggested Applications: Drop forge dies and hammers, catalyst bed and reaction chamber supports. Slow rotating bearings in hot corrosive environments. Lubricate and seal pipe threads in acid environments. Coat gaskets in high temperature applications. Lubricate conveyor chains, chemical plant bolts for pump housing and pipe flanges.
Seems like either would be fine?
#305
Ok I read the entire thread. Let me see if I have this straight:
I have 20+k on my car and I'm still under warranty. I should replace the stock plugs asap per the TSB with Champion 7989s(everyone is in agreement that those are ok) and I should use a light coat of anti-seize in the location specified in the TSB and gap them at .054? You guys are scaring me so I'll be very careful and use the Ford carb cleaner and anti-seize.
Thanks to all for this information.
I have 20+k on my car and I'm still under warranty. I should replace the stock plugs asap per the TSB with Champion 7989s(everyone is in agreement that those are ok) and I should use a light coat of anti-seize in the location specified in the TSB and gap them at .054? You guys are scaring me so I'll be very careful and use the Ford carb cleaner and anti-seize.
Thanks to all for this information.
#307
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 6
From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Scott
#309
I am running the Champions gaped at .050 exactly how the M/C pulled out at 22K were gaped - car run perfect. no problems at all and I do not have nightmares with braking plugs
#310
If anyone finds a decent price on the Champion spark plugs (#7989) please post it. Both Rock Auto and Summit have now increased their prices to $13 -$16 each and I saw one wholesale sight where their cost is about $4.50 each.
#311
#313
#314
Plug Nightmare
Now running Champions gapped at .044" and couldn't be happier. I have over 5K miles on the Champions and car runs better than ever.
Last edited by goldenpony; 8/13/08 at 06:37 AM.
#315
I've been running the Champion #7989 plugs for several months now. I set a .045 gap, put a very light coat 2,600 degree high-temp nickle anti-seize on the upper 1/3 of the grounding shield and a very light coat on the threads as well. They car runs great with them, not a single problem. Out of curiosity I took out a couple of the Champion plugs 2 weeks ago and they came out very easy and looked fine with no build-up on the grounding shield.
#317
From what I understand, they changed the head design on the 4.6 in Nov. 07 and it now has a traditional 1-piece plug (different size plug than on the pre-Nov 07 heads). I don't think you need to change yours out.
#318
sweet! ill still need one step colder plugs for nitrous but at least i can use factory style plugs. good stuff
#319
#320
hey guys are the new autolite HT1 plugs one piece????
my dad bought 8 of them on accident, and doesnt need them, so if they are 1 piece than he will give them to me.....
he said they are 1 piece but i dont think he knows the diff.....
i need to know asap before he returns them...
lol
my dad bought 8 of them on accident, and doesnt need them, so if they are 1 piece than he will give them to me.....
he said they are 1 piece but i dont think he knows the diff.....
i need to know asap before he returns them...
lol