Installed BMR LCAs
It's real easy. Here's a step by step. These are the dual poly bushing lower control arms from BMR.
Jack up the back of your car by the pumpkin, don't let the jack touch the cover so it doesn't get damaged and spill out your fluids. Place jack stands on the axles on each side, equally spaced out.
Remove both wheels
Disconnect the e-brake cable bracket.
[attachmentid=43381]
Remove the clip off the ebrake cable and disconnect the he cable (refer to the pdf, my picture didn't come out)
Using an 18mm socket wrench, disconnect the front of the LCA arm, then disconnect the back.
[attachmentid=43382]
ONLY DO ONE ARM AT A TIME. IF YOU DISCONNECT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME YOUR AXLE WILL SHIFT WAY OUT OF POSITION!!!!
Now would be a good time to put thick lithium grease inside the steel bushings on the BMR arms. Don't use regular grease because it will dry up the poly bushings over time. This might prevent squeeking down the road. I actually bought grease to do this and I forgot to do it, but they don't squeak so whatever.
On the BMR arm ends there's a narrow and a wide end. The narrow end goes in the front of the car. Now this end didn't fit really well in my brackets. I used a screwdriver through the bolt holes and bend the brackets open a little bit. Then I used a rubber mallet to bang it into position. Stick the bolt through and tighten it down, but not fully tighten yet.
[attachmentid=43383]
Jack up the back of your car by the pumpkin, don't let the jack touch the cover so it doesn't get damaged and spill out your fluids. Place jack stands on the axles on each side, equally spaced out.
Remove both wheels
Disconnect the e-brake cable bracket.
[attachmentid=43381]
Remove the clip off the ebrake cable and disconnect the he cable (refer to the pdf, my picture didn't come out)
Using an 18mm socket wrench, disconnect the front of the LCA arm, then disconnect the back.
[attachmentid=43382]
ONLY DO ONE ARM AT A TIME. IF YOU DISCONNECT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME YOUR AXLE WILL SHIFT WAY OUT OF POSITION!!!!
Now would be a good time to put thick lithium grease inside the steel bushings on the BMR arms. Don't use regular grease because it will dry up the poly bushings over time. This might prevent squeeking down the road. I actually bought grease to do this and I forgot to do it, but they don't squeak so whatever.
On the BMR arm ends there's a narrow and a wide end. The narrow end goes in the front of the car. Now this end didn't fit really well in my brackets. I used a screwdriver through the bolt holes and bend the brackets open a little bit. Then I used a rubber mallet to bang it into position. Stick the bolt through and tighten it down, but not fully tighten yet.
[attachmentid=43383]
Now swing the rear end of the arm into position, you will see a little problem.
[attachmentid=43384]
The axle has shifted out of position, this is why it's important not to disconnect both LCAs at the same time. Big thanks to Import Slaya for suggesting in his post to use a ratcheting tie strap to shift the axle back into position. I was already prepared for this and bought a $6 10 foot ratchet strap at Walmart.
I want to tell you that this will look backwards from the previous pics because I took different pics on both sides of the car.
Loop the long part of the strap around the axle like this.
[attachmentid=43385]
There's a hole in the chassis for the hooks to go in. Put both in here.
[attachmentid=43387]
[attachmentid=43384]
The axle has shifted out of position, this is why it's important not to disconnect both LCAs at the same time. Big thanks to Import Slaya for suggesting in his post to use a ratcheting tie strap to shift the axle back into position. I was already prepared for this and bought a $6 10 foot ratchet strap at Walmart.
I want to tell you that this will look backwards from the previous pics because I took different pics on both sides of the car.
Loop the long part of the strap around the axle like this.
[attachmentid=43385]
There's a hole in the chassis for the hooks to go in. Put both in here.
[attachmentid=43387]
Now your strap is in position and ready to shift back into place.
[attachmentid=43390]
Tighten the ratchet until the holes in the rear bracket line up with the LCA
[attachmentid=43391]
Insert the bolts and tighten all the way with a torque wrench to 129 lb-ft (175 Nm). That is Ford's factory spec. There were no instructions with the BMR arms. A lot of people here are saying to torque them to 75 lb-ft, that is not tight enough, I suspect this is what is causing some of their noise problems.
[attachmentid=43392]
Hook the ebrake cables back up and you're good to go.
I didn't pack the bushings with grease on the grease ports. I don't know if they are pre-greased or not. Again no instructions from BMR. My arms don't squeak or make a sound at all. I couldn't tell anyway because I installed Flowmasters at the same time. Did you guys grease yours?
[attachmentid=43390]
Tighten the ratchet until the holes in the rear bracket line up with the LCA
[attachmentid=43391]
Insert the bolts and tighten all the way with a torque wrench to 129 lb-ft (175 Nm). That is Ford's factory spec. There were no instructions with the BMR arms. A lot of people here are saying to torque them to 75 lb-ft, that is not tight enough, I suspect this is what is causing some of their noise problems.
[attachmentid=43392]
Hook the ebrake cables back up and you're good to go.
I didn't pack the bushings with grease on the grease ports. I don't know if they are pre-greased or not. Again no instructions from BMR. My arms don't squeak or make a sound at all. I couldn't tell anyway because I installed Flowmasters at the same time. Did you guys grease yours?
Originally posted by luckyeod28@January 21, 2006, 9:30 PM
So when the axle shifts out of position, it will shift to the rear of the car? Is that correct?
Sorry to interupt.
So when the axle shifts out of position, it will shift to the rear of the car? Is that correct?
Sorry to interupt.
PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND YET, I AM STILL ADDING STUFF ]
Shelby GT350 Member



Joined: December 1, 2004
Posts: 2,098
Likes: 0
From: Waddington, NY (waaaay up north)
This is the next mod on my list. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
Got a question. Can you leave your tires touching to the ground to avoid the axle shifting?
Dustin, sounds like you and I are doing the same thing to our cars. I have the BMR LCA's, Flowmasters, h-pipe, Eiback pro kit lowering springs and the BMR adjustable panhard rod.
Thanks for the write up, I will be taking the car off the road for a weekend in March and install everything.
So you don't find any extra road noise from the LCA's? I guess with the Flowmasters you wouldn't hear it anyways.
Thanks for the write up, I will be taking the car off the road for a weekend in March and install everything.
So you don't find any extra road noise from the LCA's? I guess with the Flowmasters you wouldn't hear it anyways.
Originally posted by outdoorstom@January 21, 2006, 10:41 PM
This is the next mod on my list. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
Got a question. Can you leave your tires touching to the ground to avoid the axle shifting?
This is the next mod on my list. Thanks for taking the time to write this up.
Originally posted by cop on my back@January 21, 2006, 10:59 PM
So you don't find any extra road noise from the LCA's? I guess with the Flowmasters you wouldn't hear it anyways.
So you don't find any extra road noise from the LCA's? I guess with the Flowmasters you wouldn't hear it anyways.
When I installed mine I had to bore out the steel bushing on the side that is toward the back. It was to small. I have no idea why the back steel bushing is smaller than the front one. They didn't send any replacement bolts to fit it. Although I was able to bore them out fine and they are installed with no problem, I'm a little pissed that I had to do that.
Shelby GT350 Member



Joined: December 1, 2004
Posts: 2,098
Likes: 0
From: Waddington, NY (waaaay up north)
Originally posted by dustindu4@January 21, 2006, 10:06 PM
There's no way you can get in and have enough room for everything you need to do. No way that can be done. I think even if you had the tires on the ground, it would still shift. Don't worry about the shifting, it's not a big deal as long as you can reposition it with the tie strap.
There's no way you can get in and have enough room for everything you need to do. No way that can be done. I think even if you had the tires on the ground, it would still shift. Don't worry about the shifting, it's not a big deal as long as you can reposition it with the tie strap.
If the car is on a ramp type lift you could do it. Davids2toys did it on his lift and it didn't shift. I agree about not being able to do it on the ground.
Originally posted by dustindu4@January 21, 2006, 8:08 PM
ONLY DO ONE ARM AT A TIME. IF YOU DISCONNECT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME YOUR AXLE WILL SHIFT WAY OUT OF POSITION!!!!
ONLY DO ONE ARM AT A TIME. IF YOU DISCONNECT BOTH AT THE SAME TIME YOUR AXLE WILL SHIFT WAY OUT OF POSITION!!!!
Sounds like you kinda got shafted because I got my LCAs from the same source that you did. They came with instructions, and it said very specifically to do them one at a time and not both at once because the axle would shift.
Dang..sorry you had to figure it out the hard way.
When me and "cheese302" did mine on the car, we didnt need to remove the tires or tie a strap to it. We just did one LCA at a time and we got them both on in 30 min. No axle shifting occured....
If you need to lube up any poly bushings use Energy Suspension Formula 5 Prelube. You can get it in either 3 x 1/2oz. squeeze tubes or an 8oz. tub. It's sticky like glue and doesn't wash off. I bought a tub of it for $12.00 a few years ago. I use it on everything from swaybar bushings,panhard bar bushings, third link and LCA bushings. I never use a grease gun on LCA's.
Originally posted by Eleanor Dreaming@January 22, 2006, 12:13 PM
Does MAK Performance on E-bay have about the best price on these? 119.95 incl shipping.
Does MAK Performance on E-bay have about the best price on these? 119.95 incl shipping.


