I need a suggestion for my next parts purchase
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Check my signature for details of my vehicle.
What would you guys suggest be my next mod that would result in a lower ET. I want to put my 365+hp to better use for the 1320. Im looking for the best dollar to performance bargin and Im considering doing a 3.9:1 rear gear swap. I know I need tires and new wheels though...
My 60 foot was lacking @ 2.080 on my nitrous run but I didnt hit the switch until after that.
-Dan
What would you guys suggest be my next mod that would result in a lower ET. I want to put my 365+hp to better use for the 1320. Im looking for the best dollar to performance bargin and Im considering doing a 3.9:1 rear gear swap. I know I need tires and new wheels though...
My 60 foot was lacking @ 2.080 on my nitrous run but I didnt hit the switch until after that.-Dan
Meziere's electric water pump-$299 from BMR. I would definately entertain a lighter wheel/slicks combo. 2.0+-60'....you should be in the 1.6's or 1.7's with that kindof power.
Maybe some suspension or headers.
Maybe some suspension or headers.
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Originally posted by 169stang@July 30, 2005, 11:22 PM
Meziere's electric water pump-$299 from BMR. I would definately entertain a lighter wheel/slicks combo. 2.0+-60'....you should be in the 1.6's or 1.7's with that kindof power.
Maybe some suspension or headers.
Meziere's electric water pump-$299 from BMR. I would definately entertain a lighter wheel/slicks combo. 2.0+-60'....you should be in the 1.6's or 1.7's with that kindof power.
Maybe some suspension or headers.
I was launching without the nitrous by the way.You wouldnt think that gears would make a big enough difference? I drive on the street a lot btw.
Another issue, I seem to be lacking on the torque side of things. Any help there? Could Torque Managment be hurting me to the effect of 30+ft/lbs? Where is everybody else seeing their torque peak @? I only have my numbers at the 5350 crossover.
-Dan
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Originally posted by Cleveland@July 31, 2005, 1:31 AM
The other issue that I did forget to address @ the track was to let out the 50psi in my tires so I was running full pressure. I was launching without the nitrous by the way.
You wouldnt think that gears would make a big enough difference? I drive on the street a lot btw.
Another issue, I seem to be lacking on the torque side of things. Any help there? Could Torque Managment be hurting me to the effect of 30+ft/lbs? Where is everybody else seeing their torque peak @? I only have my numbers at the 5350 crossover.
-Dan
The other issue that I did forget to address @ the track was to let out the 50psi in my tires so I was running full pressure.
I was launching without the nitrous by the way.You wouldnt think that gears would make a big enough difference? I drive on the street a lot btw.
Another issue, I seem to be lacking on the torque side of things. Any help there? Could Torque Managment be hurting me to the effect of 30+ft/lbs? Where is everybody else seeing their torque peak @? I only have my numbers at the 5350 crossover.
-Dan
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Joined: November 13, 2004
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From: jersey
Originally posted by Cleveland@July 31, 2005, 1:15 AM
Check my signature for details of my vehicle.
What would you guys suggest be my next mod that would result in a lower ET. I want to put my 365+hp to better use for the 1320. Im looking for the best dollar to performance bargin and Im considering doing a 3.9:1 rear gear swap. I know I need tires and new wheels though... My 60 foot was lacking @ 2.080 on my nitrous run but I didnt hit the switch until after that.
-Dan
Check my signature for details of my vehicle.
What would you guys suggest be my next mod that would result in a lower ET. I want to put my 365+hp to better use for the 1320. Im looking for the best dollar to performance bargin and Im considering doing a 3.9:1 rear gear swap. I know I need tires and new wheels though...
My 60 foot was lacking @ 2.080 on my nitrous run but I didnt hit the switch until after that.-Dan
As the gears will give you that SOTP feeling, I don't think you would benenfit the most from doing gears. You have NO2. You can afford to direct the money elsewhere. If you think your 60' time could improve, just put in some gears and watch it get worse. You can work it from any direction. I did all the power mods initially and had to play catchup with the suspension etc.
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Originally posted by Cleveland@July 31, 2005, 10:48 AM
Here are the slips and sheets.
-Dan
Here are the slips and sheets.
-Dan
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Joined: March 26, 2005
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got torque?
"Now, one of the best parts is that SCT is now providing (for auto trannys) the best shifting I have seen since the manual valve bodies. It shift so freaking hard from 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 - if put you back in the seat and barks the tires, Hard!"
the quote is from this thread-
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=30504&hl=
granted, bryan is running an ATI blower. but nevertheless, his shifts are the way they should be in a performance tune w/ an auto tranny.
torque mgmt.= bah humbug
"Now, one of the best parts is that SCT is now providing (for auto trannys) the best shifting I have seen since the manual valve bodies. It shift so freaking hard from 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 - if put you back in the seat and barks the tires, Hard!"
the quote is from this thread-
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=30504&hl=
granted, bryan is running an ATI blower. but nevertheless, his shifts are the way they should be in a performance tune w/ an auto tranny.
torque mgmt.= bah humbug
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OK. Here's my 2 cents. Gears, Gears, Gears. The 5R55S is a weak tranny. Every transmission builder I've talked to has confirmed this. The stock 3.31 gears puts a lot more load on the tranny than a set of 4.10's will. Some folks say that you drive through the gears too quickly with the 4.10's but this is exactly what you want with a weak tranny. The shifts should be firm but not overly harsh. Shift firmness is controlled by the line pressure in the tranny. The more line pressure you have the more the converter gets pushed towards the front of the car. The only thing that stops the converter from moving forward is the thrust bearing in the motor. The major cause of thrust bearing failure is excessive line pressure in the tranny. If you run too much line pressure, kiss your thrust bearing goodbye.
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I'm clueless when it comes to mods, but I seem to remember a lot of talk about the firmer lowering springs giving you less traction off the line. 
The reason I remember it so well is the logic seemed backwards to me.
The reason I remember it so well is the logic seemed backwards to me.
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Originally posted by 1trickpony@August 3, 2005, 2:39 PM
4.10s but only with drag radials. Otherwise you'll smoke the tires more than Ken Gushi (the drifter racer). I think the gear swap will get you .3 secs and about the same trap speed or a little higher.
4.10s but only with drag radials. Otherwise you'll smoke the tires more than Ken Gushi (the drifter racer). I think the gear swap will get you .3 secs and about the same trap speed or a little higher.
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Since I now believe Im going to be getting the 4.10s I should go ahead and swap the LCAs and get the adjustable brackets too. Which of the 3 BMR units would be best for my street/strip car? Im guessing I should just go with the
"race" units but is it really worth the extra $$$? I really want to improve upon that poor 60 foot of mine and get back to the drags within a week or 2.
My plan is to put the engine power to better use without trading out my radials for slicks. I want a car that can be fast on the street, basically defining a street/strip vehicle.
Also, where is a good place to buy the gears? Price is an issue of course.
-Dan
"race" units but is it really worth the extra $$$? I really want to improve upon that poor 60 foot of mine and get back to the drags within a week or 2.
My plan is to put the engine power to better use without trading out my radials for slicks. I want a car that can be fast on the street, basically defining a street/strip vehicle.
Also, where is a good place to buy the gears? Price is an issue of course.
-Dan
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Originally posted by Weedo@August 4, 2005, 7:14 AM
I get only a quick chirp with my 4.10's and Paxton, stock rims/tires. This is with the auto. I think it's as good as it gets as far as consistency!
I get only a quick chirp with my 4.10's and Paxton, stock rims/tires. This is with the auto. I think it's as good as it gets as far as consistency!
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Originally posted by 1trickpony@August 6, 2005, 2:05 AM
Are you brake torquing the engine at all? I know a Paxton hits around 3500 rpms, but I figured you could still break'em lose. What's you 60ft times? They must be awesome.
Are you brake torquing the engine at all? I know a Paxton hits around 3500 rpms, but I figured you could still break'em lose. What's you 60ft times? They must be awesome.
I would never put a stall on this thing unless I tubbed it with slicks!
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