I finished installing my WMS high velocity intake.

I installed the factory tune back onto the car since I took out my other CAI for the new WMS intake. The WMS is suppose to work fine with the factory tune.

I'm getting two DTC codes now and I'm stuck in failsafe mode. The codes are P2111 and P2104.
I looked them up on Diablosport and P2111 is:
Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open
And P2104 is:
Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Idle

I cleared the DTC codes with my Xcal2 but the car stays in failsafe mode.

What do I do next.....I'm a rookie at this and wondering what I did wrong.
If I limp back to the dealer do I need to return everything back to stock?

Please help.....hags1

 

Unhook your battery cable and let the car reset and then try to put it back to stock tune again.

Steve

 

thanks SC67Stang,

OK....I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 2 hours.
Rehooked up the battery and did the reinstall of the factory tune.
The reinstall goes all the way to the end and right after it's at 99 or 100% there's two clicks from under the hood....the dash reads 'Engine Temp Warning' and the Failsafe Engine warning comes up right after that.

You have to relocate the radiator overflow tank with the WMS intake.
I reread the procedure for installing the WMS intake and it says: "coolant must be filled through the engine cap as well, this is screwed into the front drivers side where the upper rad hose meets the engine"

Could this be why I'm getting the 'Engine Temp Warning" after the reinstall of the factory tune?
I only had to remove 1 gallon of coolant when I moved the overflow tank. It looked to me that I was only taking the fluid out of the overflow tank and didn't really notice any extra. (coolant in the motor)
The owners manual says the car holds 12.72 quarts of coolant (almost 3 gallons) I only removed 1 gallon of coolant, about what the overflow tank holds. When I refilled the coolant after moving the overflow tank, I just refilled the overflow tank and the level on the side was right back to were I started. I didn't fill coolant through the engine cap..

I still don't understand why I'm getting the two codes that I'm getting above...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated....hags1

 

I had to delete my post because I just read you have a 95mm MAF. You need to rule out wiring. Do you get the code at start up? If so there is an easy test. Load the stock program and put the stock air box on with the hood up so it clears the overflow. If you get no code I would say your wiring is OK and that can be ruled out.

 

I have the WMS 80mm meter installed right now. I wasn't going to put the 95mm meter in until I get the tunes from you for my Xcal2. Shannon stated the 95mm needed tunes, so I didn't install that yet....Sorry my listed mods. messing you up.
I get the Failsafe Engine warning right after the reinstall of the factory tune. I hear two clicks from under the hood when the tune is done loading, and then the dash says Failsafe Engine. I go to read the codes and get the same two codes that I posted above. I've cleared the codes, reinstalled the factory tune and it does it again. I don't even get a chance to start the car without it being in failsafe mode.

I'll try the factory air box and see if it does the same thing. I take it I should hook up the factory box and then try the reload of the factory tunes?

thanks for your input......hags1

 

This is strange indeed. Other than what was already recommended, Im stumped on what could be causing this. Have U confirmed your connections like Brenspeed suggested?

BTW...do you have the 95mm already?
Im still waiting on mine..

 

Did you make sure there's nothing causing the throttle body to stay open?

 

Thanks for the replys....Here's a message I sent to Brent at Brenspeed.....if anyone has any other ideas I'm willing to try them.

f1-cobra...

I checked the throttle body....didn't really see anything wrong with it. It wasn't stuck in any one position.

Everything I tried last night didn't solve my problem.

First I drained some coolant and refilled thru the plug on top of the motor. Did this with probably 2 gallons of the coolant from the overflow tank. During this time I had the battery disconnected. It took me probably 20 minutes or so, so I figured the computer had time to reset. I finished up the coolant refill and topped off the overflow tank and hooked up the battery. Put the keys in and just turned it to power, but no start.....The dash still said it was in 'Failsafe Mode'. So I turned the key off and reinstalled the factory tune back onto the car. Same issue as before.....right at the end of the install the dash reads 'Engine Temp Warning' and then Failsafe Engine Mode'. I ran the DTC codes and the same two came up. I did notice while installing the factory tune, the dash read ODO Odometer Error, or something like that, as if the odometer is off, is this because the battery was disconnected?

So, then I unhooked the battery again for a good hour and checked over my throttle body for anything different. It all looks fine to me....Spring is good to go, etc. I reinstalled the LFP throttle body, factory intake and box, hooked up the battery and tried the key again.....same thing, still in Failsafe Mode.....even after the battery was disconnected for an hour......Doesn't the computer reset if the battery is disconnected? I'm disconnecting the negative terminal, should I be disconnecting the positive?....seems to me either should do the trick and the negative is better to work with.

So, then I went back and looked at the wiring again that I did for the MAF sensor extension. Pulled out my meter and did a continuity test on every wire, they all tested fine. I decided to change the 6 wire waterproof connector I used and go with the heat shrink connectors that WMS provides. No real reason other then I wondered if maybe the DIN connector was bad internally....grasping at straws now.....I own the proper crimping tool for the connectors that WMS provided so I knew I could get a good solid splice job, just not the look I was going for, but that's not important now. Tested all 6 wires again with the meter and all tested fine with continuity thru the crimp connectors.

I once again hooked up the factory air box and reconnected the battery.....this was another good hour after the battery was disconnected. Put the key in and turned it onto power only.....Still in failsafe mode.....so I take it the computer doesn't reset when power is interrupted? I reinstalled the factory tune again and the same thing happened at the end of the install. I reach 100% on the install, I hear two clicks from the engine bay....is this by chance the throttle moving, or trying to move?, and then I get the 'Engine Temp Warning' and 'Failsafe Engine Mode'.

The 'Engine Temp Warning' just blows me away....The car hasn't moved in two weeks and it's cold here in Wisconsin, so I know what ever sensor is sending that signal is messed up....I surely have to have coolant thru out the system now with the refill from the top of the engine.....Maybe a visit to the factory manual will shed some light on where that sensor sits...

I guess I'm out of ideas.....I remember you mentioned the customer who had a bad Xcal2 and a replacement seemed to get him by. What can I do to try another Xcal2 or is there any idea you have for me to try.
I'd hate to have to turn this all back to factory, but if I have to I will....

My factory throttle body is at the local machine shop. I snapped one of the loctite screws that Ford had on the side to hold the cover on. I should have it back by Thursday, so I could go thru some setups with the factory throttle body back on the car. I don't expect that anything will change since the LFP t/b looks good as the day I installed it.

Hoping for some insight from you......Dan

 

I'm back in business....turned out to be my LFP throttle body....nothing wrong with it, I just went thru it again and reset the spring. The instructions from LFP are basic in that they don't tell you how far to turn the spring and engage it. It reads to turn the spring counter clockwise, with the special tool, until it engages. Well mine only needed to turn like 1/8 of a turn and it engaged. I used that throttle body with the spring set on the 1/8 turn without a problem for the last month and a half. Well I went back and read some posts on the throttle bodies and noted some were making up to a full turn to engage their spring. I looked the setup over and noticed that every 180 degree turn the spring can engage, so I turned mine this time to approx. 5/8 turn instead of a 1/8 turn. More tension on the throttle blades, but I'm still under the full turn of the spring that I read on other topics.
I was kind of cautious because just when I purchased my throttle body I read a topic from someone who turned his spring too far and it snapped when he was driving his car.....

Well I thought this was too easy of a fix and I reinstalled the LFP throttle body expecting the worse. Hooked up my factory intake and reconnected the battery. Jumped in the car and turned the key to on, but not start.....What's this....no 'Failsafe Engine Mode' on the dash display.....So I started the car, and it was just like nothing happened. I took out the factory intake and finished the install of my WMS intake....I reinstalled the factory tune and ran the DTC codes.....all clear....

Took it for a spin and everything went fine.....haven't driven my car for three weeks.....almost forgot what it felt like.
I ran around town and out in the country for a good 25 minutes. When I got home I opened the hood to look it over one last time and noticed how nice and cool the ram air tray was after running around....I can't wait to datalog this setup now that I finally have in installed.

Thanks to all who offered their suggestions.....hags1

 

Glad you were able find out the problem. Must feel great to be back on the road!

 

I'm glad you got things back to normal. Looking forward to seeing the datalog readings.

 

Good to hear you got her back on the road.

Steve

 

The problem is the factory coolant temperature sensor on the left side under the thermostat. You can drive without it functioning properly but if you do that, the PCM learns bad habits and the cooling fans won't work after you replace it without a reprogram from Ford.
The throttle body isn't supposed to have play in it and so if you can move it with your hand then it's no good anymore. And it is functioned by the PCM on a drive by wire system so if you kept unplugging the battery then you gave the PCM Amnesia. Unplug the sensor, replace the WHOLE throttle body and tow it to the dealer for reprogram.
You have too much money and anxiety if you sent a IAC motor to be machined. The internals in the IAC motor are 50-70 bucks. The entire throttle body has to be replaced if you broke a screw in it.
Don't forget to replug a new temp sensor and drive in stop and go traffic for 30-100 miles. Use the interstate to return and do not WOT.
I know the thread is from 05' but I had to say you tried too hard.