Fuel economy and CAI / 93 octane?
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From: Southeast Michigan
Fuel economy and CAI / 93 octane?
I noticed that I used to get 20-21 MPG consistently with the stock airbox and 87 octane on my 07 Mustang GT manual.
After the Steeda cold air intake and 93 octane tune, I am getting consistently 18-19 MPG readings.
I thought it was just me getting on the throttle more, but thinking about it more closely, wouldn't more air mean more fuel is being used?
After the Steeda cold air intake and 93 octane tune, I am getting consistently 18-19 MPG readings.
I thought it was just me getting on the throttle more, but thinking about it more closely, wouldn't more air mean more fuel is being used?
I noticed that I used to get 20-21 MPG consistently with the stock airbox and 87 octane on my 07 Mustang GT manual.
After the Steeda cold air intake and 93 octane tune, I am getting consistently 18-19 MPG readings.
I thought it was just me getting on the throttle more, but thinking about it more closely, wouldn't more air mean more fuel is being used?
After the Steeda cold air intake and 93 octane tune, I am getting consistently 18-19 MPG readings.
I thought it was just me getting on the throttle more, but thinking about it more closely, wouldn't more air mean more fuel is being used?
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From: Carnegie, PA
Also bear in mind that 91 and 93 octane fuel burns faster than 87-89 to begin with as well..
Consider using an 87 octane tune for your Steeda as an alternative and see if you notice a difference in fuel economy..
Consider using an 87 octane tune for your Steeda as an alternative and see if you notice a difference in fuel economy..
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; Jul 12, 2013 at 04:10 PM.
I drive mostly on the highway and get about 24-28MPG with a Bamma 93 hybrid tune. I switched it back to stock for a couple of days and noticed that my MPG went down to 20-22mPG... Ive had my tunes for awhile now so I'm probably not as enthusiastic as when they were new.
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From: Carnegie, PA
Hi Mark ! I get between 19-20 MPG highway with my Airaid CAI and stock programming so if your able to get 24-28 MPG with your Bama 93 hybrid tune then perhaps I should look into this.. I do have one question for you through, can you tell me exactly what your Bama 93 hybrid tune is.. Is it like a 93 economy tune ?
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From: the beautiful "Shenandoah Valley of Virginia"
Also bear in mind that 91 and 93 octane fuel burns faster than 87-89 to begin with as well..
You can make more HP and Torque with the 91 and 93 if the engine is designed / setup with higher compression (tighter squeeze) or more spark lead (start the burn sooner before TDC) .... but the power is there because you are squeezing the charge more.
If the engine is built / tuned to run 87 octane fuel, likely that's where the best mileage is.
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Not true .... 91 and 93 are simply more resistant to preignition caused by compression / heat .... they are "less volatile". 87 is less resistant to preignition, it is more volatile .... but all three grades, everything else being equal, have same energy in a given volume .... but the 91 or 93 will burn in a more controlled rate, slower even.
You can make more HP and Torque with the 91 and 93 if the engine is designed / setup with higher compression (tighter squeeze) or more spark lead (start the burn sooner before TDC) .... but the power is there because you are squeezing the charge more.
If the engine is built / tuned to run 87 octane fuel, likely that's where the best mileage is.
You can make more HP and Torque with the 91 and 93 if the engine is designed / setup with higher compression (tighter squeeze) or more spark lead (start the burn sooner before TDC) .... but the power is there because you are squeezing the charge more.
If the engine is built / tuned to run 87 octane fuel, likely that's where the best mileage is.
Mach 1 Member


Joined: June 22, 2013
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From: the beautiful "Shenandoah Valley of Virginia"
Too large of increase in intake air or a change in MAF location may result in the computer (and fuel system) being unable to compensate and then it goes some lean and often burnt valves result.
Where higher octane fuel (formulated to resist preignition due to heat) is needed is when a tuner or other mod results in more ignition lead that starts the burn earlier in the compression stroke which itself results in higher combustion pressures and heat that result in more power as long as it's a controlled burn. Tuners don't change actual compression ratios, but an increase there through shaved heads or a piston change or .... by packing it in with a blower .... or even a short overlap cam that raises compression pressures will change octane requirements.
Problem with low octane fuel isn't that it has less "energy" in it, it's that it tends to explode easier under less heat / pressure than higher octane fuel .... and those "uncontrolled explosions" hammer pistons and try to drive them back down just like hitting them with a hammer before TDC while they are still coming up and rods and rod bearings can even be damaged .... as well as upper ring lands.
That's a short version.
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator






Joined: May 11, 2006
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From: Carnegie, PA
Yeah, If all you change is air intake, using the same fuel will not help or hurt .... the computer will try to adjust to maintain proper mixture.
Too large of increase in intake air or a change in MAF location may result in the computer (and fuel system) being unable to compensate and then it goes some lean and often burnt valves result.
Where higher octane fuel (formulated to resist preignition due to heat) is needed is when a tuner or other mod results in more ignition lead that starts the burn earlier in the compression stroke which itself results in higher combustion pressures and heat that result in more power as long as it's a controlled burn. Tuners don't change actual compression ratios, but an increase there through shaved heads or a piston change or .... by packing it in with a blower .... or even a short overlap cam that raises compression pressures will change octane requirements.
Problem with low octane fuel isn't that it has less "energy" in it, it's that it tends to explode easier under less heat / pressure than higher octane fuel .... and those "uncontrolled explosions" hammer pistons and try to drive them back down just like hitting them with a hammer before TDC while they are still coming up and rods and rod bearings can even be damaged .... as well as upper ring lands.
That's a short version.
Too large of increase in intake air or a change in MAF location may result in the computer (and fuel system) being unable to compensate and then it goes some lean and often burnt valves result.
Where higher octane fuel (formulated to resist preignition due to heat) is needed is when a tuner or other mod results in more ignition lead that starts the burn earlier in the compression stroke which itself results in higher combustion pressures and heat that result in more power as long as it's a controlled burn. Tuners don't change actual compression ratios, but an increase there through shaved heads or a piston change or .... by packing it in with a blower .... or even a short overlap cam that raises compression pressures will change octane requirements.
Problem with low octane fuel isn't that it has less "energy" in it, it's that it tends to explode easier under less heat / pressure than higher octane fuel .... and those "uncontrolled explosions" hammer pistons and try to drive them back down just like hitting them with a hammer before TDC while they are still coming up and rods and rod bearings can even be damaged .... as well as upper ring lands.
That's a short version.
I also chose the Airaid intake over the other non tuning kits such as K&N, BBK and SR Performance because the Airaid intake in my opinion has a much better design, better materials, has great fit and finish and my main reason is it also includes a non tune insert which reduces it's 100mm MAF intake tube around the same size as the factory airbox 80mm MAF housing and then when you decide your ready for future mod upgrades, you simply remove the non tune insert, re-flash your ECM with the required calibration tuning and your all set to go.. Plus you won't need to upgrade to a larger intake down the road..
At any rate, I believe the Airaid CAI offers the end user the best of both worlds IMHO
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; Jul 27, 2013 at 09:15 PM.
Sorry for not getting back to you for so long... The "hybrid" tune is a tune that Bamma made that kinda smooshes the good parts of their Race tune and Street tune together. I was ( and still am) running a K&N CAI that required no tune. I saved up and got a tuner and some tunes. Works great. My tunes are sent to me from Bamma via E-mail and I have had NO problems AT ALL with the tunes or customer service. Hope this info helps.
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Joined: May 11, 2006
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From: Carnegie, PA
Thanks for getting back to me Mark, and yes the info you provided has addressed all my concerns and I'm very pleased that everything is going well with your tunes from AM/BAMA..
BTW: are you running 87 or 93 octane with your BAMA hybrid tunes ?
BTW: are you running 87 or 93 octane with your BAMA hybrid tunes ?
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