GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

FRPP springs and Camber

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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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FRPP springs and Camber

I've been doing a bit of research, but cannot find a definitive answer. Do you need camber bolts when using FRPP springs? If so, can you please provide a part number. I remember reading a while back that you can find them at your local NAPA.

Jason
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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I have them (FRPP) installed on my car aka Eibach Pro-line and they are pretty close to spec so I didn't use any camber bolts.

Not definitive but personal experience
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 06GTwJUICE
I have them (FRPP) installed on my car aka Eibach Pro-line and they are pretty close to spec so I didn't use any camber bolts.

Not definitive but personal experience
I think I caught some of your posts in my search. Thanks for the input

If NAPA(or any other chain) carries them, it's not a big deal.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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you can use camber bolts if you really want it to be 100% to spec, but my friend at eibach said that it's not necessary and just one more thing to worry about....

i would think though... with anything more than a eibach pro drop (1.5" approx.) that you would need a camber bolt kit...
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 06GTwJUICE
you can use camber bolts if you really want it to be 100% to spec, but my friend at eibach said that it's not necessary and just one more thing to worry about....

i would think though... with anything more than a eibach pro drop (1.5" approx.) that you would need a camber bolt kit...

One less thing for me to buy then. I still need to adjust the roll center and instant center.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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im using the FRPP springs. didnt need the bolts and even though i bought em i didnt use them. they stayed within spec without issue
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 94tbird
im using the FRPP springs. didnt need the bolts and even though i bought em i didnt use them. they stayed within spec without issue
It seems like all that is needed is a good alignment.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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To adjust roll center you have to get the lower arm ball joint kit from Steeda. They also do a different kit that raises the inner pivot and makes a similar roll center correction, but the latter requires welding.

All cars are but to 'with in' tolerances. If yours is already near the one end of the range, the lowering may put you on the outside of spec. The ball joint drop will tend to exaggerate that. So IMO, get the eccentric bolt kit or get an adjustable caster / camber plate kit for the strut.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RadBOSS
To adjust roll center you have to get the lower arm ball joint kit from Steeda. They also do a different kit that raises the inner pivot and makes a similar roll center correction, but the latter requires welding.
I am familiar with both kits, but don't know which one I will choose. The X5 ball joints need to be pressed in, so it's not a DIY project

All cars are but to 'with in' tolerances. If yours is already near the one end of the range, the lowering may put you on the outside of spec. The ball joint drop will tend to exaggerate that. So IMO, get the eccentric bolt kit or get an adjustable caster / camber plate kit for the strut.
Do you happen to know the part number for the camber bolt kit?
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by max2000jp
Do you happen to know the part number for the camber bolt kit?
Eibach part# 5.81260K

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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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mine was within specs without any camber bolts.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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My FRPP handling pack was just installed last week and the Ford motorsport service guys told me they were delightfully surprised to find camber bolts INCLUDED. I have an alignment readout they gave to me showing the cambers before and after they aligned the car (after the pack was installed.) Whether or not they actually used the camber bolts supplied in the pack to align it, I don't know. I can post the camber results before and after the alignment if you're interested.

Another interesting factoid that I didn't know until the FRPP handling pack arrived.

Three different adjustment settings on the front bar:

Full Rear/softest setting
-Reduces under-steer
-Use on rain and slick roads.
-Use on rough or bumpy roads.
-Increases comfort.

Mid setting/Street Performance
-Tuning out under-steer or over-steer.
-For normal driving conditions.
-Dry street driving.
-Use with additional trunk weight.

Full forward/finmest setting
-Reduces over-steer
-Use on dry roads and tracks.
-Use on smooth roads and tracks.
-Do not use on wet or slick roads

I called Ford Racing and a tech told me that the mid setting is what is recommended unless I live in a place where it rains a lot. He said I would only need trunk weight if I was to race the car professionally.

~Ray
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 11:00 PM
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I've gotta give Steve an A+ for delivery and service. I ordered the Sways/Springs on Tuesday afternoon and they came in today(even with the snow storms!).
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 10:13 PM
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tifo

Trying to decipher your setting notes. I think what you mean to say is

For the front bar, the rear position is the softest setting for the bar (the longer the lever arm the softer), promotes less understeer. The forward setting is the stiffest setting (the shorter the lever arm the stiffer), promotes more understeer.
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RadBOSS
tifo

Trying to decipher your setting notes. I think what you mean to say is

For the front bar, the rear position is the softest setting for the bar (the longer the lever arm the softer), promotes less understeer. The forward setting is the stiffest setting (the shorter the lever arm the stiffer), promotes more understeer.
Exactly...

Did the way I post it seem confusing? I copied it word for word from the installation instructions.

~Tifo
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Simple enough. If you stiffen the front bar the car will tend to push more and have "more" rear traction.

If you soften the front bar, the car will tend to oversteer more.

A stiffer rear bar will cause the car to push less. A softer rear bar increases push.

note: push=understeer
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tifo
I can post the camber results before and after the alignment if you're interested.
I'd be interested to see that if you get a moment.
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