Found a great deal on LCA's for $114.55 w/lifetime warranty on all bushings
#1
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Found a great deal on LCA's for $114.55 w/lifetime warranty on all bushings
Hey Guys, I just found an awesome deal on LCA's by J&M products. As they appear to have the best quality LCA's, in which they back up with a lifetime warranty on all their patent pending Poly-Ball bushings for $114.55. Personally speaking, I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere else for that price, let alone with a lifetime warranty.
In the meantime, I've posted a direct link below. For anyone who may be interested in checking these out for themselves
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=45
In the meantime, I've posted a direct link below. For anyone who may be interested in checking these out for themselves
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=45
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 12/20/08 at 02:34 AM.
#5
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With a lifetime warranty on all bushings, I'll settle for being cheap anyday
#6
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#8
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For a lowered car, yes it would definitely be beneficial to purchase adjustable control arm brackets. Or you can also get adjustable lower control arms as well.
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 12/20/08 at 11:50 PM.
#9
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See that's what I thought. I've been waiting for someone to seriously run these, it seems everyone simply overlooks them since they are less expensive, but they seem to stand behind their work 110%
#10
Bullitt Member
I got the same LCA's at American Muscle for the exact same price. They've held up fine so far and I just swapped in CHE anti-squat brackets but I lowered my car too. As stated, if you haven't lowered the car, don't bother with the brackets. I definitely felt a difference when I first put them on before I lowered it.
#11
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Is it absolutely necessary to use adj brackets on a lowered car? i only have roush springs so its .75in drop in the rear. I'd eventually get the new brackets but for awhile just run the lcas
#12
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From what I'll understand it would work, but it's not ideal. Don't think it would hurt anything to have them for a while without the brackets, just won't use them to their full advantage.
#13
Bullitt Member
I'd check the pinion angle to be sure. I went with the Steeda Ultralites and the CHE drop brackets. I just had my pinion angle checked and it is perfect. If I had not used the drop brackets, I am sure it would have been off. The Ultralites drop the car about 1 1/4".
#14
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I replaced by BMRs with them and the ride quality is much better. I know someone who has been running all J&M for a couple of years with no problems. They make good quality stuff. Definitely don't overlook them.
#15
J+M stuff is good...i have the LCAs and panhard bar and brackets...lcas been on for over 1.7 years and no issues so far...the brackets help a lowered car get some angle back on the lca...it should not be even with your axle...axle should be lower...this helps also with wheel hop...and in general is a good thing...
#16
I just picked up the J&M lowers, adjustable upper, and their panhard bar. Looks like some nice quality parts. I'm really digging the 3 piece bushing design. I don't have the stuff on the car yet, but I will soon. I'm using Steeda lower control arm relocation brackets too to get the lowers level with the ground.
#19
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Lowering the car 1.5" or less you do not absolutely need adjustable LCAs or relocation brackets. The pinion angle checked out with Steeda Comp. springs and the FRPP springs.
An adjustable panhard bar is recommended if you are running wider than stock wheels and tires. You will notice the axle is off center when the car is lowered. You will also notice the axle position varies with the amount of fuel in the vehicle. It will also vary with passengers. The adjustable bar brings the car back to center and with wide tires keeps things from rubbing.
The ONLY must when you lower your car with springs is alignment. Outside of that, there is no MUST. Traction is improved when the LCA rear mounting location is lowered (anti-squat brackets). If you have less than 300 RWHP and the 255 wide tires, traction will be good at temperatures above 52 degrees.
Recommendations would be stiffer LCAs and a stiffer panhard bar. A pan hard bar brace and stiffer adjustable UCA will be noticeable to those who push their cars hard.
If you are doing the work yourself, take steps in the complete setup. Don't go off and do everything for the sake of having an overkill car as each components adds NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) which will kill the joys of a daily driver.
An adjustable panhard bar is recommended if you are running wider than stock wheels and tires. You will notice the axle is off center when the car is lowered. You will also notice the axle position varies with the amount of fuel in the vehicle. It will also vary with passengers. The adjustable bar brings the car back to center and with wide tires keeps things from rubbing.
The ONLY must when you lower your car with springs is alignment. Outside of that, there is no MUST. Traction is improved when the LCA rear mounting location is lowered (anti-squat brackets). If you have less than 300 RWHP and the 255 wide tires, traction will be good at temperatures above 52 degrees.
Recommendations would be stiffer LCAs and a stiffer panhard bar. A pan hard bar brace and stiffer adjustable UCA will be noticeable to those who push their cars hard.
If you are doing the work yourself, take steps in the complete setup. Don't go off and do everything for the sake of having an overkill car as each components adds NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) which will kill the joys of a daily driver.
#20
all of my suspension upgrades have come from Brian at hotpart, springs, panhard, adj. upper uca, lca's, vogtland springs, tokico struts, relocation brackets,the service cant be beat, the price is hard to beat unless you buy used, I have had no issues, plenty of spirited driving and quite a few trips to the track. they are the best bet for my money.