Hi everybody, I made a goal to hit 11's without a supercharger,turbo,or nitrous. I was wondering, could I hit 11's with just these parts or would I need more things:
*C&L Racer 95mm Cold Air Intake & SCT Xcalibrator 2
*Flowmaster American Thunder Mufflers
*ARH 1 5/8" Longtube Headers & American Racing Catted H-Pipe
*Stage 3 Comp Cams
*BMR Billet Lower Control Arms
*CHE Adjustable Upper Control Arms
*Ford Racing 3:73 Gears
*Steeda Charge Motion Delete Plates
*Motoblue Underdrive Pullies
*MGW Short Throw Shifter
*Spyder 3" Driveshaft
*CHE Driveshaft Safety Loop
*UCA & LCA Relocation Brackets
*Spec Stg II Clutch & Spec Aluminum Flywheel


Also, if you don't think I can hit 11's with these parts, please post your suggestions on what other parts I would need.

 

Your plan for a motor sounds sick, but the 11's? I really doubt it. My buddy on here who has a Whipple was running 12.4 on his GT. Heck, a Ford GT will do low 11's stock, but that has a S/C and 550 hp (its really ALOT more). While I don't really know much about serious internal engine work, you may need ALOT more work done.

 

If anything I am about to say below is off base. Correct me.

But the above parts should only net you 330-340 or so at the tires I believe.

That, plus 3500lbs, does not = 11's in my book.

Maybe after a ton of passes with good full blown slicks you will hit low-mid 12's.

Just think of it this way. A ZO6 has 500hp, weighs about 3000lbs or so, and runs 12 flat on street tires and will go low 11's on slicks I believe.

Most supercharged guys that have worked cars with built motors are running high 11's.

 

If you drive a car with 150hp, and you run say 18's in the 1/4, adding 100hp might net you 2 seconds.
Adding 100hp to a 300hp car may only get you 1 second.
Adding 100hp to a 1000hp car might get you .3-.5 seconds.

The faster you go, the harder it is to go faster.

 

I have seen people like spyder7724 run low 12's and he doesn't even have cams. Maybe I should add a-arms,k-member,and cylinder heads. I have seen a manual transmission mustang in muscle mustang and fast fords do 12.5's with a driveshaft,sway bar delete,tubular radiator support,15" bogarts,slicks,c&l racer,and diablo tuner. The car ran 12.7's without the bogarts and slicks,so instead of bogarts,add 4:10 gears and it should run 12.4's. Then add headers,pulleys,cmdp's,and cams. Then you would definitely be in the 11's, right?

 

You're going to do mid to high twelves with a setup like that assuming you're a good driver and you're running some sort of DRs. Those are very similar to the mods I am planning and I am shooting for high twelves.

 

Buy every BMR suspension part you can plus all of those mods you plan on doing and get some slicks. Then maybe.

 

I'm working on the same part list for my engine.
C&L Racer CAI, 93 oct tune
UPDs
CMCV deletes
AR LTs
Stage 3 cams
P&P heads

I'm hoping to get to 350rwhp as I don't get to a track as often as a dyno. But the only other mod that would help, are those stage II (or is it 3) heads from Livernios (sp?) w/ the oversized valves and the port & polish.

 

What if I add cylinder heads,a-arms,k-member,and Brenspeeds 17x8 Bullitt and M/T Street Radials Package to the list?

 

And,just so you know, jpcracing sells a 11's proven package. It has the following parts:
Diablosport Handheld Tuner w/ a Custom Tune
C & L Cold Air Intake Kit w/ Oversized Mass-Air Meter
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
Motive Gear 4.30 Ring & Pinion Set
Motive Gear Ring & Pinion COMPLETE Install Kit
Metco Lower Control Arms
Metco Upper Control Arm
Metco ICM Brackets
Eibach 4pc. Lowering Spring Kit
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Cyn-R-G Aluminum Segmented Flywheel
Bogart Aluminum 4 pc. Racing Wheel Set
Bassani "Off-Road" Aluminized X-Pipe
Bassani Aluminized Cat-Back System
Mickey Thompson 26 x 11.5 ET Street Slicks

 

To give you an idea on what to expect from cylinder heads, 5.0 Mustangs & SF did a tech article on Livernois Stg. 1 cylinder heads and got 40rwhp. Here is the article:Cylinder Head Porting – 5.0 Mustang Magazine

 

Rafael,

Give me a call and I'll put together a list of stuff for you. We just did a car that will be down at Cecil the next weekend available. We did a full package for him, and installed and it's almost identical to the list above. I know we saved him a few hundered bucks off the "competition".

CR
Tillman Speed

 

with that combo you should run 11.70-11.90 with no problem on a street slick.i ran 12.20=109 with the following mods,jlt cai,steeda udp,shortie headers,o/r xpipe,borla mufflers,4.30's,17inch et streets bias ply,x-cal2,strange 10 way shocks,bmr non ajustable lowers,stock rims,full interior and it weighed #3620 so with what you listed you should have no problem running 11's.

 

just to give you an idea.with a jlt cai,o/r xpipe,stock 3.55's and nitto drag radials at 3725#'s i ran 12.96=106 with my 05 gt.all i can say is my wife's 07 has the same mods with 3.73's and when i go to the track with my bias ply et streets i put money on it that the car in good air will run 12.50 or better and when it happens i will post multiple time slips for the non believers.if the man can drive he will run 11's without a doubt.

 

CR are you talking to me??? I actually need to call you cause I got some xtra cash so I'm gonna need to order the Steeda underdrive pulleys.. you dont carry the Roush rear springs do you? I would rather give you my business. Let me know.

 

So do you mean I can run 11's with just those parts or would I need the k-member,cylinder heads,and a-arms that I added?

 

you can do it with out the heads and k-member and a-arms.with all the parts you listed and cams with some sticky tires 11's won't be a problem a long as you can drive.

 

That's the truth right there........ you're forgetting THE MOST IMPORTANT MOD that you need: the ability to drive the car. Nothing is more accurate than that statement. I've seen cars, first hand at the same track on the same day, outperform other cars with more power simply due to the driver.

Example: Brenspeed has a shop car that with intake, tune, gears, and tires ran 12.6. If I remember right the car dyno'ed around 290hp. My car, on the same track, same day, with intake, tune, pullies, gears, exhaust, delete plates, and probably some other things that I'm forgetting ran 13.3 on stock tires...... most of my runs were 13.5. My car dynoed at 303. If this doesn't prove that the driver makes a big, big difference than I don't know what else to tell you. Other than I need to learn how to stop doing burnouts and instead learn how to move down the track LOL!

 

Yeah, I think an 11 year old might fall for that.....let'r have it!!!...lmao

 

Maybe I should add: a great driver, WITH a driver's license?