Clutch : which brand
6/21/10, 02:24 AM
#1
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Clutch : which brand
Okay,
Since a few days I've got an E-force SC and Steeda driveshaft. Especially cause I'm doing some trackdays , I aspect the clutch will start to fail. What 's the best replacement clutch I can buy ?
Thanks,
Peter
Since a few days I've got an E-force SC and Steeda driveshaft. Especially cause I'm doing some trackdays , I aspect the clutch will start to fail. What 's the best replacement clutch I can buy ?
Thanks,
Peter
6/22/10, 08:47 AM
#3
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My stock clutch started slipping 3 months after the E-Force went in.
I am happy with my Centerforce DFX wtih Centerforce Flywheel. I might not have needed a new flywheel, but I did it anyway just for peace of mind.
The clutch pedal is firmer but not real stiff. Engagement is pretty quick, but not an on/off clutch. You will have to adjust the way you start off in 1st gear because it engages much faster than stock. You have to be a little quicker on the throttle once the car starts rolling forward.
I am going back soon to put in an FRPP clutch line. This is a steel clutch line to replace the plastic one that comes stock. With the increased hydraulic pressure from an aftermarket clutch and ordinary engine heat, the plastic one can baloon and crack, causing air to seep into the throwout bearing which makes bad things to happen. This doesn't happen to everybody. But again I'm upgrading mine for peace of mind.
It would be good to do this at the same time the clutch is put in.
I am happy with my Centerforce DFX wtih Centerforce Flywheel. I might not have needed a new flywheel, but I did it anyway just for peace of mind.
The clutch pedal is firmer but not real stiff. Engagement is pretty quick, but not an on/off clutch. You will have to adjust the way you start off in 1st gear because it engages much faster than stock. You have to be a little quicker on the throttle once the car starts rolling forward.
I am going back soon to put in an FRPP clutch line. This is a steel clutch line to replace the plastic one that comes stock. With the increased hydraulic pressure from an aftermarket clutch and ordinary engine heat, the plastic one can baloon and crack, causing air to seep into the throwout bearing which makes bad things to happen. This doesn't happen to everybody. But again I'm upgrading mine for peace of mind.
It would be good to do this at the same time the clutch is put in.
6/23/10, 07:33 AM
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My stock clutch started slipping 3 months after the E-Force went in.
I am happy with my Centerforce DFX wtih Centerforce Flywheel. I might not have needed a new flywheel, but I did it anyway just for peace of mind.
The clutch pedal is firmer but not real stiff. Engagement is pretty quick, but not an on/off clutch. You will have to adjust the way you start off in 1st gear because it engages much faster than stock. You have to be a little quicker on the throttle once the car starts rolling forward.
I am going back soon to put in an FRPP clutch line. This is a steel clutch line to replace the plastic one that comes stock. With the increased hydraulic pressure from an aftermarket clutch and ordinary engine heat, the plastic one can baloon and crack, causing air to seep into the throwout bearing which makes bad things to happen. This doesn't happen to everybody. But again I'm upgrading mine for peace of mind.
It would be good to do this at the same time the clutch is put in.
I am happy with my Centerforce DFX wtih Centerforce Flywheel. I might not have needed a new flywheel, but I did it anyway just for peace of mind.
The clutch pedal is firmer but not real stiff. Engagement is pretty quick, but not an on/off clutch. You will have to adjust the way you start off in 1st gear because it engages much faster than stock. You have to be a little quicker on the throttle once the car starts rolling forward.
I am going back soon to put in an FRPP clutch line. This is a steel clutch line to replace the plastic one that comes stock. With the increased hydraulic pressure from an aftermarket clutch and ordinary engine heat, the plastic one can baloon and crack, causing air to seep into the throwout bearing which makes bad things to happen. This doesn't happen to everybody. But again I'm upgrading mine for peace of mind.
It would be good to do this at the same time the clutch is put in.
6/23/10, 09:42 AM
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Thanks,
In second gear the clutch is already slipping when I put put the pedal to the floor so I ordered the Spec stage 3 clutch and flywheel; Hopefully it will do its job properly
Grts
In second gear the clutch is already slipping when I put put the pedal to the floor so I ordered the Spec stage 3 clutch and flywheel; Hopefully it will do its job properly
Grts
6/24/10, 11:41 AM
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I've got the Spec 3+ in mine and it works quite well. I do hope you got the "low pedal requirement" though. I've seen some people have had problems with their slave cylinder failing after putting in the regular 3+ which I believe is due to the extra pressure it needs. With the low pedal requirement it's just about as light as the stock clutch was.
It will take a good 500-700 miles to get it broken in though so be prepared for it to be rather touchy until then.
It will take a good 500-700 miles to get it broken in though so be prepared for it to be rather touchy until then.
6/25/10, 12:50 AM
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I've got the Spec 3+ in mine and it works quite well. I do hope you got the "low pedal requirement" though. I've seen some people have had problems with their slave cylinder failing after putting in the regular 3+ which I believe is due to the extra pressure it needs. With the low pedal requirement it's just about as light as the stock clutch was.
It will take a good 500-700 miles to get it broken in though so be prepared for it to be rather touchy until then.
It will take a good 500-700 miles to get it broken in though so be prepared for it to be rather touchy until then.
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