traffic142

I was looking at upgrading the rotors and pads as a stop gap for dropping major coin for a wilwood set or baer set.

If you don't break the integrity of the brake line, can you just swap it out?

tx2005gt

the proper way to compress your calipers to change your pads is to open your bleeder when you compress them. this way you are not getting any contamination into your abs system. after this you need to bleed the brakes. it is not any big deal

karman

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tx2005gt @ February 28, 2006, 10:11 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
the proper way to compress your calipers to change your pads is to open your bleeder when you compress them. this way you are not getting any contamination into your abs system. after this you need to bleed the brakes. it is not any big deal
[/b][/quote]

That's right , but I have tubes that attach to the bleeders and if you don't have any air bubbles going back into the system(you will have some coming out just because of the attachment) you can get away without additional bleeding. Just some cheap clear(so you can see the fluid) tubes from the hardware store should work as long as they attach tightly to the bleeders and are fairly long. After you open the bleeders and push back the pistons, just shut off the bleeders and put in the new pads. Make sure your master is full and then reset the new pads. Then top off the master. No additional bleeding needed. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]

max2000jp

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tx2005gt @ February 28, 2006, 9:11 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
the proper way to compress your calipers to change your pads is to open your bleeder when you compress them. this way you are not getting any contamination into your abs system. after this you need to bleed the brakes. it is not any big deal
[/b][/quote]

I've always just replaced the pads when doing routine maintence. I bleed the lines regularly after track events so the fluid in the lines is somewhat fresh.

dustindu4

hey now

front brakes

[attachmentid=46123]
[attachmentid=46124]
[attachmentid=46128]

rear brakes

[attachmentid=46125]
[attachmentid=46126]
[attachmentid=46127]

if you want the whole braking system pm me with your email

sodaman

why bleed them? Just compress,install pads and rotors and your off. No adding fluid or anything. Its just brake fluid not dynamite! Maybe if your caliper seals are old or something it would be worth the time. But I doubt manys seals are too old unless your racing! Just use a compressing tool. Fluid goes forward, there shouldnt be a problem going back. Theres not much movement of the fluid period unless your losing fluid to begin with.

traffic142

Thanks to all, and especially to dustin.

Has anyone tried these rotors? How did you like them?

karman

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sodaman @ March 1, 2006, 7:59 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
why bleed them? Just compress,install pads and rotors and your off. No adding fluid or anything. Its just brake fluid not dynamite! Maybe if your caliper seals are old or something it would be worth the time. But I doubt manys seals are too old unless your racing! Just use a compressing tool. Fluid goes forward, there shouldnt be a problem going back. Theres not much movement of the fluid period unless your losing fluid to begin with.
[/b][/quote]

Did you know that brake fluid absorbs moisture? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] I may not always drain out all the fluid at once (see my post),but the more new fluid the better. Some experts recommend changing it every year to keep brakes at their peak performance.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf40142.htm

thestoogeo

I would simply compress the calipers and install the new pads. Be careful not to let the caliper hang from the brake line when changing everything out. If your fluid is a year or two old it never hurts to flush it with new and bleed the brakes. I ride mine hard enough that I change it every two years just like my coolant and other fluids.

Jon