Well I needed them for Steeda Ultralites. I drove my car for a couple hundred miles and hit a lot of speed bumps to get it to settle. Kinda pointless to align right after putting them in. Oddly enough I ended up with only .6 negative on the passenger side and 1.7 negative on the driver. Toe was excessive out both sides. Needed to put one bolt in the lower hole to force more neg and one on the upper to bring it back positive on the other.

Ended up with what I wanted- 1.2 neg both sides, 05R/.07L toe and and 7.2 deg caster(toe/caster dead in the center of factory range).

 

The alignment guy took it out of the top hole and put it in the lower hole.

 

Thats cool Glenn! I put mine in the way Camber manufacturer suggested! depending on how much is needed you can run with Camber adjustment bolts in both mounting holes!....

 

I had the pro kit installed so I can give my input based on experience. If you do not install the camber bolts you cannot align the car back to ford specs, therefore you will have inner tire wear, guaranteed as it happened to me. Ford had to install the camber bolts in order to get the alignment back in spec.

 

You don't align it back to Ford specs, you align it to the Eibach specs that came with the springs. Now it might be the same as the Ford specs. Did you not get the spec sheet with your springs? I did not have to add any camber bolts to get the Eibach specs, and have no tire wear after 10K miles.
Kevin

 

You can live with quite a bit of neg camber-pretty much anywhere from 1.0-1.9 degrees aint' gonna kill you. Being that even with no adjustable parts you should get it checked, as often the L/R won't be at the same number. I needed one on one side to actually get MORE negative camber just to get out barely over -1 degree. Toe is probably more of an issue, as it tends to splay as you lower it. If it was on the outer tolerance level from the factory, it can be quite a bit out when lowered. Like I said before I had -.6 and -1.7 camber after settling, so I had no choice but to get them.

 

What are the Eibach specs? FYI, you cannot adjust camber without bolt/plates on these cars. My alignment was out of whack when I installed my FRPP(Eibach) springs.

 

There was no spec sheet with the springs. Ford just tried to align it the best they could without the camber bolts. My front tires got worn down really fast. Camber bolts went in and they could get it back to FORD SPEC and had no issues after that. I am not an alignment guy so I don't understand why the spec would be different. Either your tire is aligned properly or it isn't, and if it isn't your tires will wear unevenly.

 

Just from the two weeks I ran around with -.6/-1.7 and a touch of toe out, the alignment made an amazing difference with initial turn in bite, tracking, and on-center feeling. in actuality, not one setting was even moved close to 1 full degree and it was like night and day.

 

Amazing how different the results can be from stock. Did you pay attention to how you had the upper mounts bolted? You can move them left to right quite a bit. Sounds like we have the same alignment now though. How do you like the handling?

--whoops...well, reading further down, you already commented.

 

Well, I got the alignment using the camber bolts from napa, and going from -2 they worked easily to get it within spec. I don't have the sheet in front of me to see exactly what it is. I did check the paper that came with my Eibach springs and it says to use Ford Factory Specs for alignment.

 

Thanks for mentioning this Bobby! Now I can buy other things for the car instead of spending money on plates!

 

What would be the disadvantage of camber bolts vs. camber plates on a road course? Is it just the degree of adjustability? Does the car actually handle better with plates?

 

The aftermarket bolts are very small and can come loose more easily, especially if you are using an r-compound type tire. They are also harder to adjust than plates. And camber plates or HD mounts make the damper work a bit more positively as you are taking out some slop in the mount (rubber and plastic).

Camber bolts are best left to cruisers. Plates are for the more serious driving.

 

well, if you look at my sig, I have the J & M camber plates now. The problem is the NVH they produce is really annoying. Much noisier in the cabin as every little bump is transferred through the chassis. Hitting a pot hole is bone jarring. As such, I am considering going back to factory mounts and camber bolts, although I would like to try my hand at road racing ...

what to do?