Don't you have to cut the factory wiring harness to add the extension for the MAS on that CAI?

 

I Like the Airaid one because the plastic dosnt retain the heat like the aluminum CAI's. I have a C&L with a predator tuner but that was before all of the different manufactures were comming out with these things. I just wish it were a plastic tube because it gets smokin hot. Just to let you know the gain that I got with the Intake and tune was huge. Stock was 265 RWHP and after i did the C&L and tune I got 297 RWHP. TRQ was 278 and went to 310. That was also a canned tune and not a dyno tune. Good luck with the intake choice. BTW my car is getting warranty service right now on the transmission and I just took the intake out and put the stock tune in and stock intake back on. Boy does the car run like crap with out that intake. But I would go with GMS, or Airaid if you dont want to get a tuner.

 

Ditto WMS. AS I have been touting in several post Oct MM&FF had a test of 3 cais. Auto, stock except for the cold air kit, also car had 20 inch wheels.
Without the cold air, best time of 13.842@97.13 Altitude density of1434
WMS without tune 13.838@98.13 Altitude density of1941
Also AEM Brute Force with no tune ran a 13.831@97.62 altitude density of
1640

For each 150 additional ft increase of Altitude density, MM&FF says equates to 1/100th of a sec and 1-2 mph trap speed.

 

I have had the WMS intake on my GT for about a year or so now and I love it. I felt a difference in speed and torque immediately after installing it, and that was with a 280 lbs. friend sitting in the car with me. The WMS also makes the front end of the car sound throatier (and meaner).

ALTHOUGH, just 2 days ago my check engine light came on. Again, i have had the WMS intake on for over a year with no problems and the check engine light might be caused by something entirely unrelated. I'm going to check the wiring first to make sure of no loose connections. If light is still on, then it's off to the shop and hope for no warranty issues. The BIGGEST draw back of a WMS is the difficulty returning the car to stock since you have to relocate the coolant tank. Just something to think about...

 

So why the light came on?

 

Not sure why light is on. I checked the wiring to the MAF and everything looks ok. I have to take my car in and have somebody else look at it because I can't figure it out. Care seems to run great and I don't hear anything out of the ordinary so who knows.

 

Didn't you use your Xcal or Predator to see what OBD II code it was throwing???

 

From another forum:

"Been a tech for Ford for last 14 years.
As long as the tune itself doesn't leave a code, there is no way we can tell if it's been changed.
Resetting, over rev, and 'speed limit reached' are stored, but can be erased just by disconnecting the battery for 5-10 mins. If asked why the battery was disconnected, just say you left the dome light on and had to get the battery recharged. We can't prove otherwise."

 

I don't have a tuner to check any codes. I decided to disconnect my battery for about 15 minutes yesterday and so far the light has not come back on. If the light comes on again I might finally break down and buy the Xcal or Predator.

 

How can you safely use a non-stock / aftermarket MAF w/o a tune or the correct air transfer function?

 

I'm a little late to the party, but I'll share what my dealer told me. Anything you do to the car, that deviates from stock, that can be traced to a problem, will void whatever section of the warranty it affects. I.E. if you N.O.S. it and burn out your valves and piston rings, you've successfully voided your powertrain warranty. Also said that the minute they plug in their scanner, they'll see the tune or that it's been reflashed and will void the warranty. That's what they said at least. And also said the obvious...when you do bring in the car for service, make sure you undo everything you think might void the warranty. If they don't know, they can't void it...

 

....Also said that the minute they plug in their scanner, they'll see the tune or that it's been reflashed and will void the warranty....

Let me share my experience on this matter. I bought an '03 Cobra a couple of years ago. The only mods (as best I could tell) were a Borla Stinger catback and Tri-Ax shifter. Everything under the hood looked stock, so I assumed the PCM was not flashed. I NEVER had problems with warranty issues, including an SVT TSB which called for a head replacement, which was done twice (long story). When the factory warranty expired last year, I purchased an extended warranty. Part of this process was for the dealer to take my car back into a service bay to "check it out". My service advisor told me they would scan the vehicle. I believe this is when they checked it to see if the PCM was flashed. Everything checked out and I bought the warranty.

Months later, I installed a number of indicator LEDs, one being for the intercooler pump. From my readings on the web, companies that sell "tunes" for the '03 Cobra make the IC pump work continuously, unlike the factory "tune". Well, my LED was telling me the pump was working continuously. This was my first indicator that the PCM was flashed. Then in March, 2006, I was handed an opportunity to "play" with a Porsche on a very desolate section of I-8 (between Yuma & Gila Bend, AZ). The factory speed limiter on Cobras is set at 155 mph. Let's just say I proved that my PCMs speed limiter was disabled.

Hindsight tells me the dealership knew the PCM was not stock yet I never had problems with warranty issues...

BTW, does the '05 have a speed limiter? V6 and GT (I own one of each).

Willie

 

I know the GT is limited at 149, not sure about the V6 though. Seems like it was maybe 112?

Edit: after reviewing the rest of the site, I'm not so sure about the 149 anymore...I read it somewhere, I know it!!! but I have no idea really.

 

GMS w/ MAF. I have one and love it.