CAI for 30 bucks
#21
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,388
Likes: 2,289
From: Carnegie, PA
No not true, the engine is sucking in air, and it can only take as much as it can get through the MAF opening,
try drilling a hole in the cap and the bottom on a coke bottle the size of a straw and blow into one end of the bottle, you will only get a specific amount of air out of the other end. the same amount of air that you would get through a straw. just because the bottles volume has increased, the same amount of air entering will exit.
This Is what I was saying...
Anyway, The MAF and Intake tube are stock so why would the volume of air change, All I am doing here is adding a highflow filter to the otherwise stock intake, this setup will not create a lean condition or triger a CEL. Just allowing the intake to breath eaiser
Coming up this wednesday Track Testing. Any ideas on how I can measure acurate engine temps and intake temps before each run. we are doing one with Stock Box, then Modified Stock Intake. So, Since heat soak can effect times I need Ideas for a fair test.
try drilling a hole in the cap and the bottom on a coke bottle the size of a straw and blow into one end of the bottle, you will only get a specific amount of air out of the other end. the same amount of air that you would get through a straw. just because the bottles volume has increased, the same amount of air entering will exit.
This Is what I was saying...
Anyway, The MAF and Intake tube are stock so why would the volume of air change, All I am doing here is adding a highflow filter to the otherwise stock intake, this setup will not create a lean condition or triger a CEL. Just allowing the intake to breath eaiser
Coming up this wednesday Track Testing. Any ideas on how I can measure acurate engine temps and intake temps before each run. we are doing one with Stock Box, then Modified Stock Intake. So, Since heat soak can effect times I need Ideas for a fair test.
#22
No not true, the engine is sucking in air, and it can only take as much as it can get through the MAF opening,
try drilling a hole in the cap and the bottom on a coke bottle the size of a straw and blow into one end of the bottle, you will only get a specific amount of air out of the other end. the same amount of air that you would get through a straw. just because the bottles volume has increased, the same amount of air entering will exit.
This Is what I was saying...
Anyway, The MAF and Intake tube are stock so why would the volume of air change, All I am doing here is adding a highflow filter to the otherwise stock intake, this setup will not create a lean condition or triger a CEL. Just allowing the intake to breath eaiser
Coming up this wednesday Track Testing. Any ideas on how I can measure acurate engine temps and intake temps before each run. we are doing one with Stock Box, then Modified Stock Intake. So, Since heat soak can effect times I need Ideas for a fair test.
try drilling a hole in the cap and the bottom on a coke bottle the size of a straw and blow into one end of the bottle, you will only get a specific amount of air out of the other end. the same amount of air that you would get through a straw. just because the bottles volume has increased, the same amount of air entering will exit.
This Is what I was saying...
Anyway, The MAF and Intake tube are stock so why would the volume of air change, All I am doing here is adding a highflow filter to the otherwise stock intake, this setup will not create a lean condition or triger a CEL. Just allowing the intake to breath eaiser
Coming up this wednesday Track Testing. Any ideas on how I can measure acurate engine temps and intake temps before each run. we are doing one with Stock Box, then Modified Stock Intake. So, Since heat soak can effect times I need Ideas for a fair test.
#23
#24
I should have been more specific. If the diameter of the pipe at the MAF is the same as stock, the sensor will read correctly and no tune is needed no matter what filter you put on there or do to the rest of the intake pipe.
That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
#25
I should have been more specific. If the diameter of the pipe at the MAF is the same as stock, the sensor will read correctly and no tune is needed no matter what filter you put on there or do to the rest of the intake pipe.
That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
#26
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,388
Likes: 2,289
From: Carnegie, PA
Bill, I'm quite certain, that both Steve and yourself intended to qualify that in your responses.. as it seems to me, that the interpretation or signals, somehow just got crossed/misunderstood.. However, all that really matters.. Is that were're all now on the same page
#27
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,388
Likes: 2,289
From: Carnegie, PA
I should have been more specific. If the diameter of the pipe at the MAF is the same as stock, the sensor will read correctly and no tune is needed no matter what filter you put on there or do to the rest of the intake pipe.
That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
#28
Am I mistaken here or is not the ideal A/F ratio around 14.7:1? Aren't both of those numbers a little rich?
#29
I don't know what the dyno was using to measure the A/F most Likely
a tail pipe sniffer which are not accurate, but rich is better than lean.
Edit: These A/F numbers are corrected numbers.
well the track run was great we gained 1 tenths in the 1/8 on average over the stock box so not bad for a 30.00 mod
#31
#33
13.0 is ok, but the power output is slightly less.
14.0 is definitely too high as it's excessively lean, which will cause pinging and possible engine damage.
BTW, 14.7 is the ideal A/F ratio at POT when the ECU is in the closed mode, and it's taking in signals from the O2 sensors.
At WOT the ECU is in the open mode, and adjusts A/F ratio according to tables in its memory.
#34
12.6-12.8 is the ideal A/F ratio at which the S197 engine produces max power when running at WOT.
13.0 is ok, but the power output is slightly less.
14.0 is definitely too high as it's excessively lean, which will cause pinging and possible engine damage.
BTW, 14.7 is the ideal A/F ratio at POT when the ECU is in the closed mode, and it's taking in signals from the O2 sensors.
At WOT the ECU is in the open mode, and adjusts A/F ratio according to tables in its memory.
13.0 is ok, but the power output is slightly less.
14.0 is definitely too high as it's excessively lean, which will cause pinging and possible engine damage.
BTW, 14.7 is the ideal A/F ratio at POT when the ECU is in the closed mode, and it's taking in signals from the O2 sensors.
At WOT the ECU is in the open mode, and adjusts A/F ratio according to tables in its memory.
#36
I did recently read where a car owner had his A/F ratio read both ways, and the difference was 0.6 higher(leaner) for the tailpipe sniffer. So based on this one example, a sniffer reading of 13.1-13.6 would put the true WOT A/F ratio in the desired 12.5-13.0 range, while a 14.0 sniffer would be a true 13.4, which is too high.
But extrapolating A/F ratios based on a single example can get you in trouble, especially if the engine is S/C. The safest and most accurate method is with the probe in a bung ahead of the cats.
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