GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

CAI for 30 bucks

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Old 7/23/07 | 11:35 PM
  #21  
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From: Carnegie, PA
Originally Posted by 2K05GT
No not true, the engine is sucking in air, and it can only take as much as it can get through the MAF opening,
try drilling a hole in the cap and the bottom on a coke bottle the size of a straw and blow into one end of the bottle, you will only get a specific amount of air out of the other end. the same amount of air that you would get through a straw. just because the bottles volume has increased, the same amount of air entering will exit.


This Is what I was saying...



Anyway, The MAF and Intake tube are stock so why would the volume of air change, All I am doing here is adding a highflow filter to the otherwise stock intake, this setup will not create a lean condition or triger a CEL. Just allowing the intake to breath eaiser

Coming up this wednesday Track Testing. Any ideas on how I can measure acurate engine temps and intake temps before each run. we are doing one with Stock Box, then Modified Stock Intake. So, Since heat soak can effect times I need Ideas for a fair test.
As long as the MAF housing is stock ? even adding a larger intake tube, will not change the airspeed or volume, that passes across the stock MAF meter/sensor.
Old 7/24/07 | 08:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 2K05GT
No not true, the engine is sucking in air, and it can only take as much as it can get through the MAF opening,
try drilling a hole in the cap and the bottom on a coke bottle the size of a straw and blow into one end of the bottle, you will only get a specific amount of air out of the other end. the same amount of air that you would get through a straw. just because the bottles volume has increased, the same amount of air entering will exit.


This Is what I was saying...



Anyway, The MAF and Intake tube are stock so why would the volume of air change, All I am doing here is adding a highflow filter to the otherwise stock intake, this setup will not create a lean condition or triger a CEL. Just allowing the intake to breath eaiser

Coming up this wednesday Track Testing. Any ideas on how I can measure acurate engine temps and intake temps before each run. we are doing one with Stock Box, then Modified Stock Intake. So, Since heat soak can effect times I need Ideas for a fair test.
Get yourself a Dash Hawk...It measures dozens of things including inlet air temp and engine coolant temp. I love the thing. Be prepared to part with about 300 dollars though.
Old 7/24/07 | 05:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by m05fastbackGT
As long as the diameter before the MAF, doesn't change ? the airspeed passing through the MAF sensor, remains the same.
Rocky,
You're right on the $. I should have qualified that in my response.
Old 7/24/07 | 09:38 PM
  #24  
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I should have been more specific. If the diameter of the pipe at the MAF is the same as stock, the sensor will read correctly and no tune is needed no matter what filter you put on there or do to the rest of the intake pipe.

That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
Old 7/24/07 | 10:46 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by theedge67
I should have been more specific. If the diameter of the pipe at the MAF is the same as stock, the sensor will read correctly and no tune is needed no matter what filter you put on there or do to the rest of the intake pipe.

That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
That was exactly what I was thinking replacing the intake tube with something that isn't bent or crimped would probably be worth an additional gain. Steeda's replacement inlet tube is worth a gain over the stock piece when used in conjunction with their CAI kit. I would think something like that would be worth a small gain.
Old 7/27/07 | 01:13 AM
  #26  
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From: Carnegie, PA
Originally Posted by ski
Rocky,
You're right on the $. I should have qualified that in my response.
Bill, I'm quite certain, that both Steve and yourself intended to qualify that in your responses.. as it seems to me, that the interpretation or signals, somehow just got crossed/misunderstood.. However, all that really matters.. Is that were're all now on the same page
Old 7/27/07 | 01:17 AM
  #27  
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From: Carnegie, PA
Originally Posted by theedge67
I should have been more specific. If the diameter of the pipe at the MAF is the same as stock, the sensor will read correctly and no tune is needed no matter what filter you put on there or do to the rest of the intake pipe.

That being said, the major restrictions of the stock intake/airbox is not the MAF housing. It is the airbox with the paper panel filter and the twisty intake tube. If you just put on a high flow filter like the OP did, and straightened out the intake tube, and got a custom tune, I would bet that you would gain about as much HP as any other intake...JLT C&L, etc. Maybe a few ponies less, but I think there would still be a ~20hp gain.
+1 Steve
Old 7/28/07 | 02:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 2K05GT
Ok here is the update.
My friend had the car dynoed at his brothers shop today in southern Virginia and he used the stock air box first and got
263hp 281tq A/F 11.4 then he intalled my home made unit. 269hp 288tq A/F 12.1
Am I mistaken here or is not the ideal A/F ratio around 14.7:1? Aren't both of those numbers a little rich?
Old 7/28/07 | 05:41 PM
  #29  
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by JonW
Am I mistaken here or is not the ideal A/F ratio around 14.7:1? Aren't both of those numbers a little rich?
Yes actually 13-14 is perfect A/F
I don't know what the dyno was using to measure the A/F most Likely
a tail pipe sniffer which are not accurate, but rich is better than lean.
Edit: These A/F numbers are corrected numbers.

well the track run was great we gained 1 tenths in the 1/8 on average over the stock box so not bad for a 30.00 mod
Old 7/29/07 | 10:42 AM
  #30  
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i used my stock airbox put on a steeda elbow and cut the buttom off the stock box, put in a k&n filter w/ brenspeed tune, bark the tires 1-3.
Old 7/29/07 | 02:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by wallace
i used my stock airbox put on a steeda elbow and cut the buttom off the stock box, put in a k&n filter w/ brenspeed tune, bark the tires 1-3.
try posting a pic of your set up please.
Old 7/29/07 | 06:42 PM
  #32  
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Pictures of CAI

Here's a pic of what I did- works GREAT!
Attached Thumbnails CAI for 30 bucks-picture-003.jpg  
Old 7/29/07 | 06:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 2K05GT
Yes actually 13-14 is perfect A/F
I don't know what the dyno was using to measure the A/F most Likely
a tail pipe sniffer which are not accurate, but rich is better than lean.
12.6-12.8 is the ideal A/F ratio at which the S197 engine produces max power when running at WOT.
13.0 is ok, but the power output is slightly less.
14.0 is definitely too high as it's excessively lean, which will cause pinging and possible engine damage.

BTW, 14.7 is the ideal A/F ratio at POT when the ECU is in the closed mode, and it's taking in signals from the O2 sensors.
At WOT the ECU is in the open mode, and adjusts A/F ratio according to tables in its memory.
Old 7/29/07 | 07:05 PM
  #34  
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by ski
12.6-12.8 is the ideal A/F ratio at which the S197 engine produces max power when running at WOT.
13.0 is ok, but the power output is slightly less.
14.0 is definitely too high as it's excessively lean, which will cause pinging and possible engine damage.

BTW, 14.7 is the ideal A/F ratio at POT when the ECU is in the closed mode, and it's taking in signals from the O2 sensors.
At WOT the ECU is in the open mode, and adjusts A/F ratio according to tables in its memory.
OK, is'nt the Tail pipe metering about 1-1.5 points higher than the wideband reading? I think thats what I was reading that when using the wand the normal is what I posted, and before the cats using a wideband mid 12's id ideal as you stated. thanks for the info ..
Old 7/29/07 | 07:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by wallace
Here's a pic of what I did- works GREAT!
Cool the opposite take on mine, good job
Old 7/29/07 | 09:38 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 2K05GT
OK, is'nt the Tail pipe metering about 1-1.5 points higher than the wideband reading? I think thats what I was reading that when using the wand the normal is what I posted, and before the cats using a wideband mid 12's id ideal as you stated. thanks for the info ..
You're correct. A tailpipe sniffer will show a leaner A/F ratio than a probe inserted thru a bung ahead of the cats. But how much leaner it will be is anyone's guess.
I did recently read where a car owner had his A/F ratio read both ways, and the difference was 0.6 higher(leaner) for the tailpipe sniffer. So based on this one example, a sniffer reading of 13.1-13.6 would put the true WOT A/F ratio in the desired 12.5-13.0 range, while a 14.0 sniffer would be a true 13.4, which is too high.
But extrapolating A/F ratios based on a single example can get you in trouble, especially if the engine is S/C. The safest and most accurate method is with the probe in a bung ahead of the cats.
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