The C&L Intake removes the factory CMCV's, so instead of spending $200 on CMDP's, consider that you get the same effect "for free" with the C&L Intake, so you're really spending $599 net ($799-$200) for a much better flowing intake manifold.

 

Please dont give me ideas, I am already saying, Hmmm 644.00 for cams, 400 for install and while they are there, installing powdercoated cam covers (extra 270.00). I am close to 1300 right now, last thing I need is an excuse to blow another 700 plus that install cost Lol.

 

I just put my new C&L manifold on last week. I plan to take it to the dyno to tweek anything the mod might have changed. I have noticed the throttle response is not as good and it idles funny at times. Not really worried just yet ,till I find out whats going on ,on the dyno. Asking those of you that have already worked with this new manifold, is it not common anyway to have to adjust the tune a bit to maximize this mod ? I am hopeful that the gains are real and we can get everything worked out. Appreciate the feedback.

 

A/F is likely to need tweaked, and the instructions tell you the plenum volume changes that your tuner will need to make (it's not available in the hand held). My throttle response is fantastic, and no idle issues. Won't dyno it until spring though...

 

It sounds like your happy with it and your car should respond even better after your dyno tweek. It does seem to gain rpm alittle quicker. I think it will be a good compliment to my P&P heads & cams. I look forward to further reviews from you and others. I will be back to update all after my tune is adjusted. Next weekend I will be running the car at the track so I will know for sure what it has done for me.

 

I still have a spare set of heads sitting here, waiting to go to Fox Lake for p&p, as well as a GT500 TB (well, and 4.30 gears). At that point, there's really very little more you can do to push air in and out of the system NA. Once I dip into the 11s I'll do the heads as well and see how far into it I can go. Friend with a similar setup but more gearing got 11.7 so I'm confident...

 

I'm pretty confident that this will be a worth while mod. Like you said,not really anything else I can do on a N/A car. Not to change the subject but the only other thing I'm thinking of doing is when I put in a Detroit truetrac I may bump my gear from 4.10's to 4.30. Since the car is making power clear to 6500 , after running a few calculators ,if I want to run thru the traps at 6300 ,4.30 gears would be needed. Have'nt made up my mind yet.

 

JW what have you modded to your engine. CAI, LT, UDP, etc???

 

After a while the list gets long and you start forgetting. Here's the complete list including suspension, I THINK:

-Exhaust-
Mac axleback muffler (or Magnaflow or FRPP GTAs)
JBA h-pipe
JBA titanium coated longtube headers

-Engine-
C&L cold air intake with Woodbine Motorsports SCT XCAL2, 93 octane
Comp Stage II cams and springs (#127300)
Steeda underdrive pullies
C&L Intake Manifold

-Drivetrain-
Spec II+ clutch
Spec steel flywheel
Spydershaft Aluminum driveshaft
Metco front driveshaft loop
FRPP 4.10 gears
Detroit TrueTrac
MGW shifter

-Suspension-
BMR strut tower brace
BMR boxed lower control arms and relocation brackets
BMR adjustable upper control arm
BMR tubular k-member
BMR radiator support/front swaybar delete bracket
BMR Xtreme Antiroll Bar
BMR Panhard Bar
BMR tubular a-arms
QA-1 adjustable race shocks
Steeda sport springs

-Wheels and Tires (Street)-
18" AFS Mach 1 wheels (18x9")
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires 275/40-18 at all 4 corners

-Wheels and Tires (Track)-
17" Bullitt Wheel replicas (17x9")
Mickey Thompson 295/45-17 ET Streets Radials (27")
OR
15" Bogart Drag wheels (15x4.5", 15x9.75")
Mickey Thompson 26x11.5-15 and 26x4.5-15

-Interior-
Autmeter DPSS stage 2 shift light
S&S A-pillar dual gauge pod
Autometer water temperature gauge
Rear seat delete

 

Those of you that have the C&L please post your dyno results. As I have said, I have seen more people with the C&L actually lose power on the dyno.

The only manifold I have seen have positive results is the JPC.

 

In the spring...

 

I'm waiting for the FRPP manifold before I make a choice. Wish there was more out on it by now...

 

ok, first I heard about the FRPP manifold....where can I go for info

 

Really isn't much out there on it. I know someone on one of these forums (not sure which one anymore) has one on their car for testing. Hopefully in the spring it will be available.

 

We went with the JPC intake manifold. You don't change intakes to make more power. You change to better manage the power you have or want to have. You change to get better distribution of gases between cylinders (problem with stock intake manifold) and better manage boost.

Look this up on other forums. There are lots of opinions and threads. I don't trust vendor hp results....too easy to tweak another 20-50 hp from the tune, independent of the intake manifold.

 

The problem with the way this thread is going is we have people at so far opposite sides of the horsepower spectrum that the information being given is being twisted some in my opinion. For someone at your power level with a new purpose built engine to propel you car into the low 9's means nothing to someone like us daily driving N/A'ers. While I have done everything to my car that I know is possible to stay with the stock C.I. and N/A I truely believe "ANY" manifold for us is really not worth the bucks "unless" we plan a stroker, turbo or SC'er in the future. While the C&L intake or the JPC intake may net Forensicsteve 50-75 rwhp with his new setup it will only get us N/Aer's running stock C.I.'s and stock heads maybe 5-7 hp above 5500 rpm. So is $800 for 5-7 rwhp worth the investment for the original poster if he doesn't go to cams,heads, turbo, or a supercharger. I guess that's up to him. But having done everything that he is thinking about I will say in my opinion at our power level it is not worth the money.

 

I am asking what the C&L will do for a CAI, Tuned, LT Header, Stage 2 NSR cams do for an increase. I do not see the heads being P & P or CNC till 2 years from now.

 

That maybe true but I am hoping that the car being an R & D vehicle. still offers some relevance.

Certainly won't decline any extra horses, but we are not looking for a single hp increase....an even distribution of gases per cylinder, will justify the purchase. An uneven gas flow between cylinders with the stock intake manifold, contributed to the last built motor going boooooom. Maybe the C & L offers a similar advantage.

 

It does