SoundGuyDave

I had the same issue with the fresh Rotorpro/Posi-Quiet combo, but once I bedded in the brakes, they're fine. By no means are they track grade pads, but they're fine for the street.

doc stang

heading to sears tonight,
want to make sure i know what all i need,
first is the tool list from the awesome write up,
then i have pared the list down to the things about which i am not sure:

Tools required:
FRONT:
11MM line wrench
13MM line wrench
7/16 line wrench (2 required: 11MM will work in a pinch)
7/16” combination wrench
3/8” drive ratchet
3/8” drive 6” extension
7/16” socket
10MM socket
12MM socket
15MM socket
5/8” socket
½” drive to 3/8” drive adapter
Lb-Ft torque wrench.
½” drive socket appropriate to your lug nuts.
6” C-Clamp
Side cutters
7” cable ties: 8pcs
3/8” rubber hose, or type SO 12/3 jacket only, no wire: 6”
¼”-20x3/4” stainless steel bolt: 8 pcs
¼”-20 stainless steel Nylock nuts: 8 pcs
Dremel tool or die grinder with small cone-shaped steel bit.
Flat-head screwdriver (6” long blade is good)
¼” and 5/16” nut drivers (optional)
¼” drill bit
Sharpie (new, fine-point tip)
Bleeder-Buddy bottle with magnetic mount.
6” bungee cord.

REAR:
11MM line wrench
13MM line wrench
7/16 line wrench (2 required: 11MM will work in a pinch)
3/8” drive ratchet
3/8” drive 6” extension
7/16” socket
10MM socket
13MM socket
15MM socket
5/8” socket
½” drive to 3/8” drive adapter
Lb-Ft torque wrench.
½” drive socket appropriate to your lug nuts.
Disc Brake rear piston compression tool
Side cutters
7” cable ties: 2pcs
Flat-head screwdriver (6” long blade is good)
Bleeder-Buddy bottle with magnetic mount.
6” bungee cord.


FRONT:
11&13MM&7/16 x2 line wrencheswhat is a LINE wrench?
6” C-Clampany particular size? not sure what the funny symbols after the "6" mean (inches?)
Side cutters what is that?
7” cable ties: 8pcs any particluar sizes?
3/8” rubber hose, or type SO 12/3 jacket only, no wire: 6”where do i find this?
¼” and 5/16” nut drivers basically a screwdriver handle with a socket on the end, right?
Bleeder-Buddy bottle with magnetic mount. what if i didn't order these? are they mandatory? if i can't find em at a parts store locally, should i go ahead and install the earl's solobleeds now, and bleeder buddys later? or do the lines and fluids now, and save the earls solobleeders till later, when i DO have the bleeder buddies? SHOULD the average local parts store have something like these?

REAR:
Disc Brake rear piston compression tool where do i find? was there a different one for the front?
7” cable ties: 2pcs any particular sizes?
6” bungee cord. 6 (inches)?

SoundGuyDave

Doc, you have a PM at the "other" board...

Import-Slaya

Hey Doc--got your email,
I've attached a pic of a line wrench. Also called a flare-nut wrench. Basically a cross between a box wrench and an open end wrench. Keeps the wrench from slipping off.

I think it's a 6" c-clamp, but pretty much any of the mid-sized ones will do the trick.

For the hose, Home Depot Racing or Lowe's Performance has a good variety (same for the cable ties--pick up a few bags of different sizes/thicknesses--they come in handy). I like the clear polyethylene tubing, since you can watch to see when the fluid is running clear.

I think side cutters refers to wire cutters.

Nut driver is exactly what you describe.

Bleeder buddy is just a bottle for bleeding your brakes--not at all necessary to bleed the brakes or use the Earl's solobleeds. I got one and have never used it--it is tiny! When I flush/bleed my brakes, I push a lot more fluid than an ounce or two through. Just use any clear plastic old water bottle. You just need something to drop the hose that snaps onto the bleeder nipple into.

***As Soundguy mentioned, keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level--DO NOT LET IT GO DRY*** (ask me how I know...)

The compression tool for the front brakes is the c-clamp. You just squeeze the pad/piston fully back into the caliper by screwing the clamp in.

For the rear brakes, you take the pads off and screw the piston back into the caliper using the special tool. I picked up a universal tool and ground two nubs off of one of them to make it fit (pic attached). Not sure if there is a better option out there, yet...

I'll add vacuum caps to the list (see pic--thanks again, Google Images). When I did my lines, what I did was unbolt the line from the body mounted hard line, then immediately slip a vacuum cap over the hard line flared end. Then you have all the time in the world to work on removing the old line off the caliper, installing the new lines, cleaning up the brake fluid that spilled all over, etc... since the vacuum cap keeps any brake fluid from dripping out of the system.

Hope this helps. (I forgot how good this write-up was--thanks Soundguy!)

doc stang

o.k. i feel like a dork
dave and slaya,
thanks a million.
doc
(better with some kinds of tools than others)

SoundGuyDave

Slaya: There IS a better option, available from your local tool truck (Snap-On, Matco or Mac), like the one in the pix in my post, but the price is over $100 for the set. IIRC (don't quote me), the tool pattern that you need fits "Mazda and some Ford" calipers. I already had the tool, but would buy it again, as the cube deal looks like a total PITA to use... Like you, I also ditched the bleeder-buddy bottles, and am carrying a one-quart piece to the track now. I got tired of emptying the little bottles into an empty soda bottle before carrying it to the disposal point at the track...

Doc: Let us know how it turns out!

06GT

Regarding the brake caliper piston tool for the rear calipers:

Harbor Freight makes a "universal" kit with interchangeable faces for different pistons, it's only 25$, comes with its own carrying case, and works like a charm. (until it breaks -- Harbor Freight, lol)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

Also I use a block of wood w/ the C-Clamp for the front calipers in order to squeeze the pistons back in. This helps to get both pistons at once, and reduces risk of scarring the piston face w/ the C-Clamp.
You might be able to push the pistons in by hand if you open the bleeder screw, going to try this myself next time.