Brake performance upgrade: how to
10/5/07, 04:08 PM
#21
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Not doubting your experience, but I haven't washed down the wheels since the install, and the dust just wipes off of mine... Just to verify, I called Hawk, and spoke with Mary, who reassured me that the dust will NOT eat the paint or clearcoat on the wheels.
I put some miles on the brakes yesterday and today after bedding them in and then curing them for 24 hours... There is brake squeal, typical of high-metallic content pads, but not excessive, and yes, virginia, these are DUSTY pads. Of course, having installed the brake ducts and pulled the dust shield, I really have no comparison to make versus stock pads, but my gut tells me that the maintenance interval on the wheels just went up. Initial bite, when cold is very good, and when warmed up a little really gets aggressive. I haven't run them hard enough to try to fade them, though. I'll save that for Autobahn on Monday...
I put some miles on the brakes yesterday and today after bedding them in and then curing them for 24 hours... There is brake squeal, typical of high-metallic content pads, but not excessive, and yes, virginia, these are DUSTY pads. Of course, having installed the brake ducts and pulled the dust shield, I really have no comparison to make versus stock pads, but my gut tells me that the maintenance interval on the wheels just went up. Initial bite, when cold is very good, and when warmed up a little really gets aggressive. I haven't run them hard enough to try to fade them, though. I'll save that for Autobahn on Monday...
Anyone have trouble turning in the pistons for the rear calipers? I saw this happen at the track once on an SN95 and I just had it happen to me this morning. I turned the pistons clockwise but they would not go into the caliper, even with the bleeder screw open (SpeedBleeder is another brand, slightly different from the Earls speed bleeder. The SpeedBleeder screw has an internal spring and ball rather than the spring and plunger).
The solution at the track on the SN95 and on my S-197 this morning was to turn the piston counter-clockwise 1/2 a turn. After that, they turned in fine clockwise like they are supposed to.
BTW, Great thread, SoundGuyDave!!!
10/8/07, 06:39 PM
#22
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Just a quick update... I ran HPDE today at Autobahn in Joliet, IL., 22 turns on 3.54 miles of pure bliss... after five 20-25 run sessions, there was absolutely NO brake fade or reduction in braking feel, but GOOD GOD my silver wheels are black with brake dust!! They actually look like black chrome, with a solid sheet of brake dust and not a few chunks of rubber...
10/8/07, 09:19 PM
#23
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Dave,
I am heading up there this weekend. My friend is a member there and invited me out. I am interested to see how my car handles with my suspension mods.
I am heading up there this weekend. My friend is a member there and invited me out. I am interested to see how my car handles with my suspension mods.
10/8/07, 09:35 PM
#24
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Also, come off South 6 hard, and drift left. That will let you keep in the throttle full-out right through South 7 ("the kink") and end up in position for South 8, which is a very tight right. If you're carrying a lot of speed off the straights, you will want to take care of your brakes. In general, the whole course is late-apex... If you don't get the outside wheels on the rumble-strips, you're not driving hard enough.
10/8/07, 09:41 PM
#25
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You'll have a blast... It's a pretty fast track, lots of runoff room, and a beautiful surface. Watch out for South 9, it's a throwaway. Just worry about your transition into South 10 to set up for the LONG straight transitioning from the south course to the north course. On that straight, get to the left before the midpoint, there's enough of a bump on the right to get you airborne. Also, watch out for North 6, it's a killer decreasing-radius turn that never seems to end, and dumps you into another long straight. I had a lot of trouble finding the good turn-in point (it's later than you think) to allow you to carry real speed off the apex.
Also, come off South 6 hard, and drift left. That will let you keep in the throttle full-out right through South 7 ("the kink") and end up in position for South 8, which is a very tight right. If you're carrying a lot of speed off the straights, you will want to take care of your brakes. In general, the whole course is late-apex... If you don't get the outside wheels on the rumble-strips, you're not driving hard enough.
Also, come off South 6 hard, and drift left. That will let you keep in the throttle full-out right through South 7 ("the kink") and end up in position for South 8, which is a very tight right. If you're carrying a lot of speed off the straights, you will want to take care of your brakes. In general, the whole course is late-apex... If you don't get the outside wheels on the rumble-strips, you're not driving hard enough.
Very fun track to drive and it's designed to be very safe. Did you happen to get any lap times?
10/9/07, 10:13 AM
#26
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Nope, no lap times... I was in HPDE 1 with NASA, so no transponder rentals available. I was outrunning a Porsche 944 who was a member, and claimed 3:15 lap times, so I don't feel too bad about my first time out (EVER!). It took me the entire first session just to get acclimated, the entire second session to figure out how to drive the automatic on-course, and then the next two to start to find the line. The last session, though, was an absolute blast, and I really started to get some smooth transitions. I think I would have benefitted from either a slightly taller rear gear, or a slightly shorter one... I always seemed to find myself shifting into fourth JUST in time to downshift for a corner... Hanging 6400RPM was a lot of fun, but just not comfortable...
10/9/07, 03:02 PM
#27
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Which Earl's solo bleeders did you use? There appears to be quite a few different sizes and most sellers dont' list them by vehicle application but rather by size.
TIA
B
B
Semper Fi
TIA
B
BSemper Fi
10/9/07, 03:03 PM
#28
Agreed--I'm ready to order these from Summit--but the latest year they show is 1997, and there are various sizes.
10/10/07, 07:31 AM
#29
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EAR-280040ERL is the part number I used. 10X1.0MM thread, 32MM overall length. They're a hair longer (I think 0.4MM?) than our stock bleeders, but that's no problem at all, given how the design works.
10/10/07, 11:16 AM
#30
Thanks Dave! Ordering mine now. This will definitely save me time and make it more convenient to bleed the brakes!
I only wish the bleeder screws were on the outside of the caliper so I could access them w/o jacking the car and taking the wheels off!
I only wish the bleeder screws were on the outside of the caliper so I could access them w/o jacking the car and taking the wheels off!
10/10/07, 02:03 PM
#31
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I'm doing pretty much the same brake mod shortly on my '07 GT with a couple of changes. I'm using Agent 47 lower grill and cooling ducts and EBC Yellowstuff brake pads. I'm hoping for the same overall results , but with a little more initial bite out of the brake pads.
10/10/07, 04:49 PM
#32
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You, know, those black-chrome wheels of mine look pretty good!! Oh, wait, they're silver... Note the finger-swipe on the third pic...
I think that I'll be swapping out to factory pads tomorrow, just to cut down on the brake dust. The HP-Plus pads absolutely ROCK on the track, but the dust is killing me... I will defininately put them back on next season when I get out to a road course, though, without a second thought.
I think that I'll be swapping out to factory pads tomorrow, just to cut down on the brake dust. The HP-Plus pads absolutely ROCK on the track, but the dust is killing me... I will defininately put them back on next season when I get out to a road course, though, without a second thought.
10/10/07, 05:14 PM
#33
You, know, those black-chrome wheels of mine look pretty good!! Oh, wait, they're silver... Note the finger-swipe on the third pic...
I think that I'll be swapping out to factory pads tomorrow, just to cut down on the brake dust. The HP-Plus pads absolutely ROCK on the track, but the dust is killing me... I will defininately put them back on next season when I get out to a road course, though, without a second thought.
I think that I'll be swapping out to factory pads tomorrow, just to cut down on the brake dust. The HP-Plus pads absolutely ROCK on the track, but the dust is killing me... I will defininately put them back on next season when I get out to a road course, though, without a second thought.
Yeah man my Yellowstuffs are the same way. Fortunately the dust washes off very easily--a small price to pay for consistent, fade-free braking.
3/27/08, 05:19 PM
#34
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I'm completely lost LOL on changing out pads..... sounds silly I know but is it as hard as it sounds? Also I'm trying to figure out exactly what tool I need. 
3/27/08, 06:01 PM
#35
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I can help if you need!!
3/28/08, 05:36 AM
#37
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3/28/08, 10:22 PM
#38
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All done.... test drive to come tomorrow. No problems, other than the springs breaking easily off of the Posi Centric pads that came with the Rotorpros. If I have an issue with them, I'll replace the fronts with Hawk units.
Thanks to Dave and Scott.
Thanks to Dave and Scott.
3/29/08, 11:13 AM
#40
Legacy TMS Member
Yes, thanks again Dave. Car was pretty "mushy" at first but seems to be getting noticeably better. No noise, etc. or anything weird after probably around 50 miles of driving with several 70-0 hard stops.