SeanD

Help!
I just installed a new front Baer PRo+ brake kit and new Russell rear stainless steel brake lines.
I am trying the one-man brake bleed process since I have nobody here to help me. I got the rears bleed with no bubbles coming out. I hook up the one-main bleeder to the Baer front calipers and when I try the same pump with the valve open, I get major bubbles coming out. The fluid comes out solid for a bit and fills the catch bottle, but then starts farting bubbles into the line. The rears do not do this at all. I even re-bleed the rears againg to verify. I am following the correct bleed sequence (Rear-Right, Rear-Left, Front-Right, Front-Left) I get this problem on the front-right caliper.
I have asked someone to come and help me do the two-person bleed, hoping this helps. I need the car working for the morning as I have a special event to go to first thing in the morning.
Any ideas on how to get it bubble free, using the one-person method?
Thanks,
Sean

houtex

You're supposed to get bubbles at some point. That's why they make you start from the longest line and work your way back to the shortest, this lessens air potential from somewhere else. Fill the longest line, then the next longest, so on.

Bubbles are inevitable and the only cure is to keep bleeding until they're gone.

You may have screwed the pooch re-bleeding the rears, unless you did the same sequence from the start.

It's entirely possible too that either your new brakes or your lines has a small pinhole leak that's allowing the air in somewhere else... or maybe you ran out of fluid in the reservoir? Naw, that's silly talk, I'm sorry.

The two person bleed should fix it, though, if all is well.

SeanD

Now I have another problem, but I think it is because the battery went dead tonight. I found out the rear brakes were locked up. Could figure out what was going on. They I noticed the battery was almost dead. I can't fire up the engine. When I was bleeding the brakes, I depressed the brake peddle and heard something in the engine bay, then he radio did its CD shuffle thing and I knew then the battery was screwed. Could the rear brake issue be because of the ABS unit not getting power?

I finished off the bleeding of the front calipers with the help of the wife and aftre I found this rear brake issue, I tried to re-bleed the rear right caliper once more, but nothing is coming out of the bleeder valve. The drivers side rear caliper is fine, but the passengar side isn't.

I didn't have my battery quick charger on me, so I couldn't jump the battery to see if that would correct it, so I called it a night. I am replacing that **** factory battery with an Optima Red Top tomorrow.
I am just stumped on why the rear caliper won't bleed anymore. I took off the feeder brake line from the caliper line and hook it up to a tube going to my fluid container and the line flows freely.

I am stumped once again!

Sean

yugoboss

Open all the bleeders, take the cap of the master cylinder and wait for them to flow. Don't let the master run
dry. Then fill master, put cap back on and follow bleeding sequence.

SeanD

I'll have to go get some more tubing so that I can hook them all up to bottles.

CO_VaporGT_09

Just get SpeedBleeders (1010S for Mustangs):

http://www.soloperformance.com/Speed...on_p_1266.html

SeanD

I have four Russell peedbleeders on order, but I am not sure if they will get here for Friday or not.

jaguarking11

I bought my speed bleeders at autozone. 10bux a pair. I needed 3 pair for the brembo kit.

I bled mine untill the fluid was buble free and clean. Took me 4 bottles. and 1/2 bottle more after a few miles and a post bleed to eliminate the rest of the stuff.

Another silly question. I hope you used either dot3 or dot4. dot5 should never be used on these brake systems. Dot5 has bubles that will never go away...... Its more for trailer queens that are not going to get driven much & when they do its not hard.....

SeanD

I put in DOT4. I got the brakes bleed today, but I am not 100% sure about the quality of the bleed. The Baer calipers bleeder valves are acting weird. Doing a 2 person bleed, i had my helper (aka the Wife), depress the brake pedal and hold it. I opened up the bleeder valve on the Baer caliper and fluid flowed nicely and no bubbles! I then closed the valve and about maybe 15 seconds later big bubbles start are the valve. Not sure why that would happen as the bleeder valve is closed tight.

I took the car for a test drive this evening and it seems fine, but I think I am going to bring it to a local shop and have them bleed them. I have some Rusell Speedbleeders on order and should be getting them early next week. I will have them install those speedbleeders and see what happens.

CO_VaporGT_09

Just trying to be helpful here, but I don't think those SpeedBleeders (whatever brand) will help. Sounds like you have an air source somewhere in the line. Assuming you never allowed air in from the master cylinder (letting the fluid level get too low), there shouldn't be more and more bubbles in an endless cycle unless there's a leak somewhere. I might suggest trying to get ATE blue and use it to bleed, as you'll easily see when that fluid starts coming out. Unfortunately, if somehow you did get a bunch or air in, it might take several bottles to get it all out.

Did you happen to do stainless lines in front with this as well? Wondering if you got a bad line?

SeanD

New stainless lines front and back. Back are Russell's and front are Baer lines that came with the kit. The air bubbles do not happen during the bleed. The only appear right after I finish the bleed on the caliper and after I tighten the bleeder screw. I am not sure if it is just the plastic tubing that I am using, is not sealing around the nipple properly or what. The brakes seem to be good, but I am still going to take it to a shop to get them done properly.

CO_VaporGT_09

Maybe a leaking seal in the caliper itself, around the boots within it? Would explain why it doesn't happen during the bleed but only after, bit of vacuum effect...

Hopefully your shop will find the problem.

fincsher

Might be a good idea.

Voception

Alway do the caliper closest to the master cylinder ie the one with the shortes line then move to the next till you get to the longest one. pump brakes 5-10 times then bleed with someone pushing brake pedal till if goes all the way down, just before it hits bottom you close the bleeder do not leave open for to long or air will rush back in. keep checking master cylinder level if air gets in you start over. speedbleeders suck and never work right.

If you have to with no other alternative do this on your own bleeding all four with lots of fliud will work but may leave some small bubbles behind.

CO_VaporGT_09

Backwards, start furthest away and work til closest. If any bubbles in the line between master and brake cylinders, pushing it to the furthest one will make it less likely to go to the closer ones. Conversely starting closest and getting rid of bubbles there, you might stills see bubbles at the most distant one when you get there, and then you should really go back and start again, meaning never-ending cycle.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...enance/4213448

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml

Import-Slaya

Yep. RR-->LR-->RF-->LF on our cars.

Voception

Your right, that's what i get for surfing the forums while on conf call with bosses...

Scott2

Sean, did you get this figured out?