spyder7724

i'm sure one of you guys has done this already. who's kit did you get and how did you hook into the stock cables? i'm thinking about running pos+neg cables all the way up just to make sure i don't have a grounding problem. i would like not to butcher up the stock cables if possible. anybody know of some type of terminal block that i can hook the stock cables to then run the extensions back to the trunk from there?
thanks

dustindu4

Why bother relocating? You running 10s?

thump_rrr

Battery relocation will require a cutoff switch to legally run ay the track.
The problem is on a street car even if you cutoff the battery positive the car will continue to run on the alternator. NHRA and IHRA rules require the car to shut down when cutoff switch is disengaged so other electrical system modifications may be required such as running the alternator cable to the rear also.

Maybe someone who has already done this can better answer this question.

spyder7724

relocating the battery helps with weight distibution and is pretty much a standard mod for drag racing. it will move about 40lbs. to the rear of the car+ make it easier to install the cut off switch. painless makes a cut off switch that kills current to the alternator also. giving you instant engine shutdown. at some point this car will be running 10's(with help from zex) but probably not this year. my wife has already expressed her opinion about putting a roll cage in the car so for now i'll have to keep it to low 12's and high 11's....if i can get there.

dustindu4

yeah the trouble is you'll have to mount a switch on the rear of the car for a shutoff as Peter described per IHRA rules. I wouldn't want this on my everyday car, donkies named jack will flip it in the parking lot, not to mention it looks really stupid on the back of the car.

Cleveland

I hope you understand that you wont be getting to these 10s with the stock shortblock.

Back to topic, I would have already moved my battery to the trunk but I already have too much stuff back there; nitrous bottle and shaker subs. The cut off switch also has to be functional from outside the exterior of the vehicle to be track legal.

-Dan

169stang

IF...you mounted the switch anywhere from the top of the license plate down, you will have to cut the bumper support to fit a cutoff switch. The other option is to mount it higher or install a push/pull lever in the light or the top of the plate.
The stock battery location is good, behind the shock tower, but 40lbs in the front, is 40lbs in the front. Mine is being moved as well. I'm not doing it though. It's being done by the fella that's installing my turbo. I opted not to cut into the bumper support and go thru the rear light. I will be able to remove the lever when daily driving and put a 3/8" plug in the hole.

thump_rrr

As David said the through the light idea is a good one. I remember seeing a thread on this somewhere where the guy would remove the handle from the switch and install a virgin taillight lens when he wasn't at the track. Remember that the battery must be installed with the poles in the stock orientation. Left to right and not front to back to prevent damage to the cells

thump_rrr

169stang

I'm adding quite a bit of weight to the nose of the car, so that's the only reason I'm moving mine. Add 80, remove 40. Actually, I don't know how much the turbo etc. will weigh, but I do know it's heavy.

dustindu4

With all the wheelies you'll be doing with that new motor you're gonna need more weight on the front

spyder7724

the switch part is easy. painless wiring makes a constant duty solenoid so all you have to mount is a simple push button or toggle switch in the back(it also shuts off current from the alternator). and 40lbs. off the front is 40lbs. off the front. i don't expect to gain any e.t. from it only to make the car work better and be more consistant.as these cars are set from the factory the I.C. is way short for a foot brake automatic so any weight removed from the front is going to have a big impact on traction and 60' times.to me it's a standard mod for any street strip car regardless of what the weight distribution is stock.
as far as getting 10's from a stock shortblock...it's already been done so it is possible but i most likely won't try that until i have a spare shortblock ready to go in. i'll be happy with anything faster then 12.50 for now.