DMD3

Got this in an e-mail from Ford service dept. Anyone know if this can be done by a beginner, using the above mentioned throttle body cleaners and a fuel additive?

*Fuel Saver Special**
Fuel Induction Service
*) Clean fuel injectors-Clean throttle body
*) Clean plenum and air intake system
*) Remove combustion chamber deposits
*) *Regularly: $199.95*
*) *Now: $169.95*

mikeelia

Or be "non-green" and change the PCV to a filtered vent...

Mike E

MaverickMLFD371

Ive noticed this problem too ever since I started getting aftermarket intakes and even now when i have the whipple. Before I had the C&L I had the K&N for quite sometime, then i switched to the C&L with dougs tunes and of course now I have the whipple and it comes with the "oiled" cone intake. so I might have to take the t/b off and give it a good clean

metroplex

This isn't just a problem with blowers or aftermarket intakes. It will happen with the OEM intake on a naturally aspirated motor just as easily. However, it is an actual problem with blowers because the oil cakes onto the intercooler and reduces its heat exchanging efficiency. This isn't a big deal for N/A engines.

Using a filtered vent on the PCV and breather will work (with some tuning involved) but you'll lose some engine oil and it will make things smell pretty badly.

I still vote for the OEM-quality oil separator. Seeing how everyone doesn't have any problems spending $300+ for Mustang mods, a $200-$300 oil separator worthy of being used by the OEMs (zytel nylon, replaceable/washable filter elements, rated for -40 to 200F, etc...) would be a nice mod that I would even install on the Stang and every other vehicle we have. Oil gunking up the intake manifold isn't a problem on the N/A motors, but it does reduce horsepower somewhat since you can't run as much timing.

YardSpecial

2 cents from a mechanic
The TB is coated to prevent the aluminum from piting / croading.

I have used 3M part #08866 for years with no issues. Yes it safe for coated TB.

I clean our 97 GT like once a month due to high miles.

MrClean

Hello guys! I'm new to this forum...got referred over here by a link to this thread on S197Forum.com.

I have the Steeda Air-Oil Separator, and it's about to get to the halfway mark (the bottom of the filter media), after 600 miles of driving, with a driving style that is 40% WOT and 60% following like a sheep in traffic . I probably will pony up (like the punn?) for a Steff's or Moroso separator in due time, but living in the Houston area -30ºF temps aren't a problem too often!

metroplex

Any links to Steff's or Moroso's separator?

For a N/A engine, the oil just gets cycled back into the air intake stream. Of course it'd be better not to have this oil in the air stream, but it won't be a big deal for N/A motors. This oil reduces the heat exchanging efficiency of intercoolers for supercharged applications.

MrClean

Yeah, but I've seen a 4.6 3v motor that only had 4000 mi on it, and the unburned, caked oil on the pistons was nasty, also on the intake valves, and remember its also gunking up the TB (throttle body) and going through your injectors.

I just emptied mine tonight: 600 mi = 2 teaspoons (10 ml) here's a pic.

BTW, if you want to buy a spare crank case vent tube (pass side valave cover to TB) so as to use the quick-connect snap-on fittings from it, the PN (part number) is 4R3Z6A664BA, and its only $25.

Here's the complete parts list (this isn't what I have,,,this is the MOTHER OF ALL AIR/OIL SEPARATORS installed on Cali HP's car. (I think)
Here is a parts list:#5123 Stef's -12an air/oil separator 98.00Shipping and Handling 14.00Summit Racing:MOR-63401 3" can bracket 6.95SPE-3260 5/8" clamps (qty-2) 13.90EAR-403010ERL 3ft -10 Perform-O-Flex hose 32.39EAR-9892120ERL Female -12 to Male -10 reducer (qty-2) 33.50EAR-812010ERL -10 120* swivel-seal hose end 25.95EAR-800110ERL -10 straight swivel-seal hose end 10.95Shipping and Handling 10.95Total $246.59http://www.stefs.com/stefsindex.htm

Link to the pic of the MOAAOS http://www.stefs.com/products/productimages/5122.jpg

metroplex

How is it going through the injectors? The fuel system is separate from the air system. Ford has a 5 year / 60k mile powertrain warranty so the engine should last at least that with the oil circulating through the air intake system. In addition, I've seen motors with 100k-200k miles of having the oil going back into the air intake system and not having any problems. It looks dirty but it still runs fine.

MrClean

On the injectors, you're right, of course! I guess I got carried away!
As to the rest of your statement, there are extremes in any normal distribution curve ( the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Std deviations). Nevertheless, the airated (sp?) oil in your intake charge will lower the octane rating of the charge, and the deposits on your valves/pistons (and CMCV's) will increase the likelyhood of pre-ignition, which will in turn lead the PCM to back-off on the timing, so I prefer to eliminate/limit the crud going into my engine. More so since I'm running a tune that has a more aggressive timing and a premium fuel requirement.

And 60k miles is fine, but I intend to keep this car ad-eternum, and expect my kids to enjoy it when I'm gone, so I don't mind draining the stuff every 600 miles.

metroplex

I have yet to find a nice and clean plug-n-play separator kit for the S197 GT. If there is one available that is OEM-quality rated from -40F to 200F ambient, I'd consider buying it.

MrClean

Ok Mr. Metroplex, check this thread out....pay attention to the pics of redbullet's setup on page 1, to the pics of the engine with 5500 miles that was torn down, and how it looked inside, and to Cekim's setup on page 3.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318

Also, check out Cali HP's setup on this thread.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showt...hp?t=66&page=2

Of course, if you like a plug & play setup...I could be persuaded to get assemble the whole Steff's thing for you, for $350 plus shipping!

07 HOSS Mustang

MAF sensors also get oily from the "oiled filters" and need periodic cleaning too. Since it is so close to the airbox also, I guess the key is "light oiling" not heavy spray.
Isnt the PCV behind the TB on most twin screw S/C?

metroplex

If the supercharger has an intercooler, you don't want oil in the air intake stream.

SuperTeece

First off, my thanks to Doug for posting this. I had the issue as stated in the initial post and a good cleaning did bring my idle back to where it should be. The second part of my issue is still occuring though.

When I release the throttle (changing gears, stopping, whatever) the RPMs rapidly fall. This rapid fall seems to also create a pressure surge in the exhaust causing loud popping, backfire like sounds.

I have now cleaned the TB / plenum, checked for vacuum leaks, and changed plugs and wires. I even went as far as running some Marvell Mystery Oil through my fuel system.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
TC

don_w

Cleaning the TB helped me as well. If it hadn't, I was going to replace the throttle position sensor (TPS). You might try that.

SuperTeece

Do you know how to troubleshoot it?

05YellowGT

I'm not sure about these , but on my 90 I would pierce the wires with a volt meter and slowly advance the throttle by hand. The voltage should rise steadily to the maximum. If it has dead spots , i.e. the voltage drops to zero , or doesn't reach the maximum it's bad ...

SuperTeece

Thanks 05YellowGT, I'll give it a shot just to make sure. In the mean time I believe I have an axhaust leak which is my major culprit. The center console gets very hot as I go faster, the backfiring, and a horrible exhaust smell as I pulled in the garage for the first time in a month today are pointing in that direction.

Time to search the forum for exhaust system info!

MrClean

Metroplex: Check this out. I replaced my Steeda with the Moroso unit, held in place by the Moroso bracket...and fitted with Earl's fittings and 5/8" PCV hose from Autozone, and the quick-disconnect fittings from the OEM PCV hose. It's not a package deal, you have to order the pieces separately, but it's better-than-OEM quality.

Check THE THREAD on this subject out...post # 11 has all the part numbers and links, and the last post of the thread is an installation guide...the Moroso is THE EXACT SAME THING as the Stefs, but costs $40 less. In fact I like the Moroso better, because it doesn't have a flimsy drain **** like the Stef's, it has a cap on the AN fitting that you just screw off.

Brgds,

Marc