All with aftermarket brake lines chime in!!!
#1
All with aftermarket brake lines chime in!!!
Considering upgrading my brakeline's and just wanted to ask a few questions.
1)What brand did you get?
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much?
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance.
5)Any problems during or since install?
6)Would you do it again?
Thanks.
1)What brand did you get?
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much?
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance.
5)Any problems during or since install?
6)Would you do it again?
Thanks.
#2
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 6
From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Considering upgrading my brakeline's and just wanted to ask a few questions.
1)What brand did you get?
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much?
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance.
5)Any problems during or since install?
6)Would you do it again?
Thanks.
1)What brand did you get?
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much?
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance.
5)Any problems during or since install?
6)Would you do it again?
Thanks.
Hey Leo!!!
I upgraded my brake lines back around Xmas to Earl's SS brake lines. I also used his self bleeders and they are all great. For about $135.00 bucks for the brake line and self bleeders they are a great and cheap mod that you will notice. Brake pedal is much firmer now!!
Scott
#3
Hey Leo!!!
I upgraded my brake lines back around Xmas to Earl's SS brake lines. I also used his self bleeders and they are all great. For about $135.00 bucks for the brake line and self bleeders they are a great and cheap mod that you will notice. Brake pedal is much firmer now!!
Scott
I upgraded my brake lines back around Xmas to Earl's SS brake lines. I also used his self bleeders and they are all great. For about $135.00 bucks for the brake line and self bleeders they are a great and cheap mod that you will notice. Brake pedal is much firmer now!!
Scott
#4
1)What brand did you get? Earls AND Steeda.
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much? Summit and PMPparts.com, respectively. Don't remember, but the Earls from Summit were really cheap. See below, though.
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4. Did both. Initially set up for a track day, stock rotors and calipers, Hawk HP-Plus pads. Switched back to stock pads due to noise and dust for street use.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Difference in BOTH categories, even with the stock setup. The pedal sits a little lower than stock, but the feel when modulating the brakes is very precise. Lines in and of themselves will not make your car stop quicker, that's really a function of the pad compound and tire contact patch. That said, the pedal feel is well worth the mod, even with otherwise stock components.
5)Any problems during or since install? Big problems with the Earls lines. The mounting brackets are installed backward, and the banjo fittings suck. The Steeda lines fit like OEM (go figure!).
6)Would you do it again? Absolutely. Steeda would get the nod without even thinking about it. FWIW, I ran five 20-25 minute track sessions with the following brake setup: Hawk HP-Plus pads, stock rotors, stock calipers, Steeda lines, Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and Quantum Motorsports brake ducts up front. ZERO fade, despite severe overbraking on my part, with a stock weight car.
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much? Summit and PMPparts.com, respectively. Don't remember, but the Earls from Summit were really cheap. See below, though.
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4. Did both. Initially set up for a track day, stock rotors and calipers, Hawk HP-Plus pads. Switched back to stock pads due to noise and dust for street use.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Difference in BOTH categories, even with the stock setup. The pedal sits a little lower than stock, but the feel when modulating the brakes is very precise. Lines in and of themselves will not make your car stop quicker, that's really a function of the pad compound and tire contact patch. That said, the pedal feel is well worth the mod, even with otherwise stock components.
5)Any problems during or since install? Big problems with the Earls lines. The mounting brackets are installed backward, and the banjo fittings suck. The Steeda lines fit like OEM (go figure!).
6)Would you do it again? Absolutely. Steeda would get the nod without even thinking about it. FWIW, I ran five 20-25 minute track sessions with the following brake setup: Hawk HP-Plus pads, stock rotors, stock calipers, Steeda lines, Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and Quantum Motorsports brake ducts up front. ZERO fade, despite severe overbraking on my part, with a stock weight car.
#5
1)What brand did you get? Earls AND Steeda.
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much? Summit and PMPparts.com, respectively. Don't remember, but the Earls from Summit were really cheap. See below, though.
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4. Did both. Initially set up for a track day, stock rotors and calipers, Hawk HP-Plus pads. Switched back to stock pads due to noise and dust for street use.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Difference in BOTH categories, even with the stock setup. The pedal sits a little lower than stock, but the feel when modulating the brakes is very precise. Lines in and of themselves will not make your car stop quicker, that's really a function of the pad compound and tire contact patch. That said, the pedal feel is well worth the mod, even with otherwise stock components.
5)Any problems during or since install? Big problems with the Earls lines. The mounting brackets are installed backward, and the banjo fittings suck. The Steeda lines fit like OEM (go figure!).
6)Would you do it again? Absolutely. Steeda would get the nod without even thinking about it. FWIW, I ran five 20-25 minute track sessions with the following brake setup: Hawk HP-Plus pads, stock rotors, stock calipers, Steeda lines, Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and Quantum Motorsports brake ducts up front. ZERO fade, despite severe overbraking on my part, with a stock weight car.
2)Where'd you buy them from? How much? Summit and PMPparts.com, respectively. Don't remember, but the Earls from Summit were really cheap. See below, though.
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? If so please do not respond to Q 4. Did both. Initially set up for a track day, stock rotors and calipers, Hawk HP-Plus pads. Switched back to stock pads due to noise and dust for street use.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Difference in BOTH categories, even with the stock setup. The pedal sits a little lower than stock, but the feel when modulating the brakes is very precise. Lines in and of themselves will not make your car stop quicker, that's really a function of the pad compound and tire contact patch. That said, the pedal feel is well worth the mod, even with otherwise stock components.
5)Any problems during or since install? Big problems with the Earls lines. The mounting brackets are installed backward, and the banjo fittings suck. The Steeda lines fit like OEM (go figure!).
6)Would you do it again? Absolutely. Steeda would get the nod without even thinking about it. FWIW, I ran five 20-25 minute track sessions with the following brake setup: Hawk HP-Plus pads, stock rotors, stock calipers, Steeda lines, Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and Quantum Motorsports brake ducts up front. ZERO fade, despite severe overbraking on my part, with a stock weight car.
I have since worn out the front HPS pads and slapped the stocks back on the front. I need to get some new ones before June tho. Track day!!!!!!!
#7
Earl's for about $100 last year. Can't remember from who, though. I upgraded fluid and pads at the same time, so I can't comment on pedal feel changes.
If I were to buy now, though, like others have mentioned the Steeda's would be my choice. This is purely based on the banjo fittings being identical to the stockers. Simply a more robust design.
If I were to buy now, though, like others have mentioned the Steeda's would be my choice. This is purely based on the banjo fittings being identical to the stockers. Simply a more robust design.
#8
Oh, not to hijack, STEEDA LINES FTW!!
#9
Earls SS lines for like 110. Don't remember from where though. I added rotora but that's show. I feel more confident during braking. Firmer feel something stock could deliver with my 20s. Overall I would do it again if I had too.
#10
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 6
From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Hey Leo,
Sorry for the delay.
Here is where I bought Earl's brake lines from...
http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm?catagory=Brakes
Here is where I got Earl's speed bleeders from ....they are $8.80 a pair you will need 2 sets. I can't explain why the website doesn't show them but the correct part number is ERL-280040ERL.
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Earl...68_p-99893.htm
Hope this helps!!!
Scott
#11
1)What brand did you get? Earls
2)Where'd you buy them from? Earl How much? 100
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? YES if so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Can't respond to this
5)Any problems during or since install? none
6)Would you do it again? No. For the trouble and cost, there is no big difference in pedal response or feel. Sure, the pads grip better, but in the past, putting steel brake lines on a motorcycle resulted in a braking system that was much more responsive to riders inputs. The brake lever felt firmer, less play, and less lever travel to get the same braking response. It felt like you took a lot of air out of the brake lines when you swapped out the cheap stock rubber lines. Not so much for the Mustang, brake pedal feels about the same, maybe only 5-10% firmer feel, though I can tell the new brake pads do bite a lot better. Rotors (Stoptech) also gave no noticeable difference, though crossdrilled looks cool.
And yes, the brackets were on backwards, but I knew that before ordering, and flipping them around took only a minute. Hadn't had any problems with the banjo fitting crush washers, though I got a whole set of spares (cheap from Pepboys) before I started just to make sure they all sealed correctly.
I ust Motul RBF600 Dot 4 in my race bikes and the Mustang. Good stuff, high boiling point, easy to find around town, and doesn't require you to flush the entire system since it will mix with the stock Dot 3 stuff if you don't get 100% of it out.
So, long story short, I would recommend to anyone to get the Hawk HPS pads and leave the rest of the stock stuff alone unless you're going to the track. And then you can never have too much invested in your brakes.
If you do get lines, get the Steeda. They look like a high tech factory designed component, where the Earl's look like they were pieced together from wharehouse parts bins.
2)Where'd you buy them from? Earl How much? 100
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? YES if so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Can't respond to this
5)Any problems during or since install? none
6)Would you do it again? No. For the trouble and cost, there is no big difference in pedal response or feel. Sure, the pads grip better, but in the past, putting steel brake lines on a motorcycle resulted in a braking system that was much more responsive to riders inputs. The brake lever felt firmer, less play, and less lever travel to get the same braking response. It felt like you took a lot of air out of the brake lines when you swapped out the cheap stock rubber lines. Not so much for the Mustang, brake pedal feels about the same, maybe only 5-10% firmer feel, though I can tell the new brake pads do bite a lot better. Rotors (Stoptech) also gave no noticeable difference, though crossdrilled looks cool.
And yes, the brackets were on backwards, but I knew that before ordering, and flipping them around took only a minute. Hadn't had any problems with the banjo fitting crush washers, though I got a whole set of spares (cheap from Pepboys) before I started just to make sure they all sealed correctly.
I ust Motul RBF600 Dot 4 in my race bikes and the Mustang. Good stuff, high boiling point, easy to find around town, and doesn't require you to flush the entire system since it will mix with the stock Dot 3 stuff if you don't get 100% of it out.
So, long story short, I would recommend to anyone to get the Hawk HPS pads and leave the rest of the stock stuff alone unless you're going to the track. And then you can never have too much invested in your brakes.
If you do get lines, get the Steeda. They look like a high tech factory designed component, where the Earl's look like they were pieced together from wharehouse parts bins.
#12
Thanks!
#13
IMO, I would say the brake dust is a tad less than stock. Maybe this is due to the fact I don't have to press on the brakes has hard to get the same braking force. With the lighter driveshaft and AL flywheel, I even have to use the brakes more since I don't have as much "engine braking" as I used to (driveshaft made a BIG difference, car will take forever to coast to a stop). But, I really hate brake dust and squeaking brakes and I am very happy with the Hawk HPS pads. A great mod for the money and minimal down time with worry free results. The great thing with this mod is there are no down sides except the money and the time. Can't comment on the longevity, but after several thousand miles, pads still look like new, and don't seem to be eating the rotors. It seems I always 'give up something' when I do a mod, car rides a little rougher, little harder to drive, little louder, more NVH, but with this mod, I haven't found one yet. Maybe the pads won't last as long as the stock ones would have, but the difference appears to be negligible.
But don't worry about dust, it's no problem with the pads. Not much different than stock.
Hope this helps!
#14
1)What brand did you get? Earls
2)Where'd you buy them from? Earl How much? 100
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? YES if so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Can't respond to this
5)Any problems during or since install? none
6)Would you do it again? No. For the trouble and cost, there is no big difference in pedal response or feel. Sure, the pads grip better, but in the past, putting steel brake lines on a motorcycle resulted in a braking system that was much more responsive to riders inputs. The brake lever felt firmer, less play, and less lever travel to get the same braking response. It felt like you took a lot of air out of the brake lines when you swapped out the cheap stock rubber lines. Not so much for the Mustang, brake pedal feels about the same, maybe only 5-10% firmer feel, though I can tell the new brake pads do bite a lot better. Rotors (Stoptech) also gave no noticeable difference, though crossdrilled looks cool.
And yes, the brackets were on backwards, but I knew that before ordering, and flipping them around took only a minute. Hadn't had any problems with the banjo fitting crush washers, though I got a whole set of spares (cheap from Pepboys) before I started just to make sure they all sealed correctly.
I ust Motul RBF600 Dot 4 in my race bikes and the Mustang. Good stuff, high boiling point, easy to find around town, and doesn't require you to flush the entire system since it will mix with the stock Dot 3 stuff if you don't get 100% of it out.
So, long story short, I would recommend to anyone to get the Hawk HPS pads and leave the rest of the stock stuff alone unless you're going to the track. And then you can never have too much invested in your brakes.
If you do get lines, get the Steeda. They look like a high tech factory designed component, where the Earl's look like they were pieced together from wharehouse parts bins.
2)Where'd you buy them from? Earl How much? 100
3)Did you upgrade rotors or pads? YES if so please do not respond to Q 4.
4)Did you notice an improvment? Explain if it was just a difference in feel or performance. Can't respond to this
5)Any problems during or since install? none
6)Would you do it again? No. For the trouble and cost, there is no big difference in pedal response or feel. Sure, the pads grip better, but in the past, putting steel brake lines on a motorcycle resulted in a braking system that was much more responsive to riders inputs. The brake lever felt firmer, less play, and less lever travel to get the same braking response. It felt like you took a lot of air out of the brake lines when you swapped out the cheap stock rubber lines. Not so much for the Mustang, brake pedal feels about the same, maybe only 5-10% firmer feel, though I can tell the new brake pads do bite a lot better. Rotors (Stoptech) also gave no noticeable difference, though crossdrilled looks cool.
And yes, the brackets were on backwards, but I knew that before ordering, and flipping them around took only a minute. Hadn't had any problems with the banjo fitting crush washers, though I got a whole set of spares (cheap from Pepboys) before I started just to make sure they all sealed correctly.
I ust Motul RBF600 Dot 4 in my race bikes and the Mustang. Good stuff, high boiling point, easy to find around town, and doesn't require you to flush the entire system since it will mix with the stock Dot 3 stuff if you don't get 100% of it out.
So, long story short, I would recommend to anyone to get the Hawk HPS pads and leave the rest of the stock stuff alone unless you're going to the track. And then you can never have too much invested in your brakes.
If you do get lines, get the Steeda. They look like a high tech factory designed component, where the Earl's look like they were pieced together from wharehouse parts bins.
#15
I'm another Earle's customer. The increase in pedal feel was definitely noticable. That alone made it worth it to me. I HATE spongy brake pedels and anything that improves that is worth it.
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