Hey guys,

I really enjoy Autocrossing and I am planning on doing signifigant brake and suspension work in order to help times around the course. Do you guys have any advice or ideas for this project, I want to spend around $3k at the most on this aspect of the vehicle. Here is my preliminary list. I am not a drag racer unfortunately

Tein SS Coilovers w/ EDFC
Stoptech 4 Piston Big Brake Kit
BMR Strut Tower Brace
Steeda Rear Sway Bar w/ End Links
Steeda Rear Shock Tower Brace
C&L Intake w/ Xcal 2 Tune

I might just go with the Saleen Suspension kit and save alot of money instead of picking individual parts like I have. Still up in the air

 

I too got caught up in the autocross bug. I have the FRPP suspension kit, C&L cai, 3.73 gears, BFG 255/45/18 and ASA wheels. But until I put the autocross tires on I didn't know how good it could get. Get some Kumho, Hoosier or any of a number of tires for maximum grip. Get the front end aligned to a little negative camber and you're ready. Of the mods the tires made the single most differance, I'm using Kumho.

 

I just spoke to a good friend of mine, and he thinks the Saleen Suspension Kit, upgraded rotors and pads, and a nice set of tires is the way to go.

I could get all of that, and down the line get bigger brakes or more suspension modifications if I need them.

 

Another option is Eibach (progressive rate) or Steeda (linear rate) springs and some Tokico D-specs. I'm running the Eibach Prokit and Tokico's right now (camber at -1.75 and neutral toe) and the handling is *much* improved. Being able to dial in your damping with the D-specs is great. My next addition will be the Eibach swaybars.

Great deals on Ebay for all of the above--springs cost me $220 shipped, D-specs were $530 shipped, and I've seen the sways for $370 shipped.

The Saleen kit is a good deal (I looked at that one, too), but I wanted a rear sway bar to shift the handling bias more towards neutral. Without a stiffer rear sway bar to match the upgraded front, you'll get less body roll, but at the cost of potentially more understeer. Additionally, I wanted adjustable valving in my shocks/struts. The roads in the mid-atlantic region can be fairly rough--it's nice to get the damping dialed in just right for where I drive, yet still be able to crank it tight if needed (i.e. smooth autocross course or road course).

I'm not sure I would spend money on coil-overs at this point--the fronts are already a coil-over design, so all you are gaining is a minimal increase in performance for $$$$$. Also, there really aren't that many coil-over kits out there yet. Unless you are at the point where you are corner-weighing your car and adjusting accordingly, you can save some money.

What class do you plan on running? This can help determine your mod route, too. (I'm a former occasional autocrosser, but am planning my mods in this car for road course work).

 

What class did you want to compete in?

 

I want to do Solo 2, I think thats what it's called. I used to mess around with an old modified porsche 914, which probably will outdo this mustang.

 

I also don't want to lower the car more than 1 inch for daily driving. So I am leaning towards coilovers so I can lower the car when I autocross, any ideas on good set of coilovers?

Right now the plan is install my handling parts in this order, and see if I need to move down the line, after testing each modification.

swaybars
Tie bars
coilovers
brakes

 

I meant which class in solo 2. It's hard to make recommendations without knowing what class you're building your car for. Street tire or race tire? Do you want your car streetable? Do you want to be competitive or just have fun? I would first download the rules and use it to decide the class you want to run: http://www.scca.org/Solo/Index.asp?IdS=00439D-B3E0760&x=050|070&~=

 

The car is a daily driver, it will be on street tires. Sorry guys I didnt exactly understand what you meant. This is for light competition, mostly just for fun.

 

Lokius,
I don't want this to come across as antagonistic, but the items you listed are WAY more than $3000. Most big brake kits start at $2100 and go up from there. I don't think that there even is a coil-over kit for the S197s available yet.
Here are my $.02, take it or leave it. Read the SCCA rule guides and modify your car to the lowest possible level. I'd suggest a good set of rims and tires as your first mod. That should eat up a good portion of your account. Then go out and have a good time driving and learn this particular car's intricacies.
There are lots of relatively inexpensive mods that can be done if you aren't trying to compete with the "Big Dogs" at the track. I would just forewarn you that if you try to jump into one of the upper level classes without a lot of experience, you may end up frustrated and not enjoy the experience.
Other mods you may want to consider:
Steeda G-trac stage 1, 2, or 3 (but this will move you up in class depending on which parts you replace).
Shifter
CAI & Tune
Stop Tech Stage II brake upgrade from Brenspeed (about $770)
Recaro/Sparco Seats.
Engine mods.

The key is to know exactly what SCCA will or won't allow within a class and build to those specs. A lot of the guys on this site are hardcore drag strip guys, so be aware of where a lot of the advice you may receive is coming from.

Best of Luck,

Frank

 

Wsmatau,

I understand where you are coming from, I can find various coilover kits for the 05+ Mustang. Tein, one of the leaders of the coilover and suspension markets, for Japanese vehicles, such as the GT-R, have two seperate coilovers available. http://www.tein.com/ford.html The cheapest coilover, the Super Street can be found for around $1100 on eBay. H&R also has a coilover system for the 05+ Mustang http://www.hrsprings.com/site/index.html Go here and check it out!

As far as the brake kit, this will be my third vehicle modified, and I have a strong relationship with Precision Brakes Company, a wilwood custom bbk development group, and I could get myself a 14inch 4 Piston BBK for around $1300-$1500. Stoptech is around $1800 at a discount price, and retail is $2100 I believe.

I really appreciate your advice, and I have perused that site, I agree that lightweight forged alloys are definently a good first investment, I plan on using the fanblades and wearing the rubber down on them first.

Thanks for your Help
Fitz

 

Try to stay in ESP, if you do suspension mods, CAI, tires etc. you can stay there and run against Cameros etc. If you change driveline components you will move to street modified and the competition goes up. Do tires and learn the car first before you make alot of mods. The biggest thing is "butt time" the more you do it the better you will get and learn how the car handles. Then make changes based on what you want to accomplish.

 

Fitz,
I hope I was helpful. I'll check out the coil overs you mentioned. If you can get the Stop-tech at a discounted price then that is a good deal (I might end up sending you a PM) I was referring to the package that Brent puts together that includes upgraded rotors, SS brake lines, pads and fluid. It comes in at subtantially less $$ than most big brake kits and maximizes the stock parts.

Frank

 

go with the frpp kit and some sticky tires

raising and lowering the car with coil overs is a good idea, but in the real world it changes the alignment when you do that and getting it from street mode to race mode is just a shot in the dark, unless you want to spend big bucks on alignments.

as stated you want to limit the mods made to the car to stay in scca class rules.

when you go to adjustable coil overs your going to put your car into a class where you really have to have everything working just right or your going to get killed.

you state that its mostly for fun so do the frpp kit and ditch the fanblades(way heavy) i know my 06 came with them. and go with some lightweight wheels and some "a" compound tires,

leave the brakes for last, unless your planning to do some open track days

then the brakes NEED some help

jay

 

Tire wise theres no question go with the Goodyear Eagle F1's.
The khumos have been in dead last(11/11 13/13 5/7) in 3 tire test that I have read. The F1's 1st, and 1st. Personal experience these tires stick!
with a Traction rating of AA it doesnt get any better. Treadwear rating of 280 so they wont burn up as fast as alot of other tires.
But you will pay!

The brenspeed brake package is a great start. Im ordering it in a few days, just the stage 1 kit tho, I will get rotors when I smoke the stock rotors.

Yes the fanblades are heavy!!! But im not ditching them, Ill run a road course once a year if that. And not looking to beat any records thats for sure.

 

Hey Stoenr, which articles did you read? I am ready to buy the Kumho Exta MXs based on the reviews at TireRack. They rated just as highly as the F1s but are substantially less expensive. If you know something, please share.

 

I'm not sure where Stoenr got his info but if you check out SCCA SoloII and check winners the last few years in most classes they were not running F1's. Maybe in road racing or other applications but not Solo.

 

Check this out, your Mustang came with coil-overs on it in the front and you don't need them as much in the rear.

If you want to stay within a budget stay in the stock class and if you want to be competetive get seat time. Go to as many Autocrosses as you can after you get experience then start modifying the car.

Modifications suggested once you get to that level are in order of precedence.

#1 Tighten the nut behind the wheel. Once again get as much practice as possible, go to an Autocross every weekend if you want to get really good. Go to the autocrossing schools like the Evolution driving school. Spend your most amount of money going to events, get an SCCA and NASA membership.
#2 Alignment get the struts slotted per the repair manual since this is legal in the stock class. You should be able to get within -1.8 and -2. Change your toe out at the events get about 1/4 out for the event and then 1/8 in for driving around town (unless you don't like your tires)
#3 Kumho V710s or Hoosier A6s (I recommend the V710s they are just as good as hoosiers and last much longer) $800
#4 A second set of stock rims to mount the tires on, these can be gotten very cheap on Ebay if you wait and get a good deal. $300
#5 Call Carbotech and get some good Autocross brakes
#6 Shocks Tokicos can be gotten for $500 and Koni double adjustables come in at $1000 (konis might give you a tenth or two due to more adjustability)
#7 A front Anti-Roll bar $210