If you are mainly looking for numbers at the strip. As said above, do the sway bar delete, lighten the front end with skinnies, true slicks out back, is the spare and jack, etc still in the car? Maybe do rear lca's.

If all else fails, a little shot of nitrous would probably put you where you want to be. Of course, on the street, with normal driving, it is not going to help much,

I would not touch the exhaust, but thats me. I would rather put the time, effort, and money into something else. LT's just don;t seem worth it to me, but they do make a bit of power for ya.

Also, not saying anything bad about bama's tunes. I hear they are great. But it might not hurt to buy a tune from one of the other venders to see how she runs.

What fuel are you running? Maybe at the track 100 octane unleaded and a hot tune with some more timing would help?

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. I might mention she has over 200 passes at the track and 2 Sportsman class trophies at home so I don't think driving ability is the issue.

I am leaning on LCA's. I was set on BMR's until I did a search and read about all the noise issues and bushing failures with them. I can't find any bad threads about CHE or the J&M brand control arms. More than one poster said he gave away his BMR's and now has CHE. Steeda sounds like your paying for the name.

I'm sure I'm opening up a can of worms here but I like the advice and plan to make a decision by morning and get them on the way.

Thanks guys

 

I've been happy with CHE parts and Chuck from CHE is awesome to deal with. I drove my car all last winter(as cold as -40) with the CHE LCA's and punnish them on the steet and track and have never had any problems.

 

I wouldn't count BMR out just yet... From all the posts I've seen, the bushing failures were all from a single batch of bad bushings from over a year ago. I have also seen that anyone affected who called BMR about it was instantly taken extemely good care of. I have heard tell of complete new arms being shipped out, and not just the bushings.

I can tell you that I have a lot of BMR under my car, and the only noise I had was installation related. It was not a design flaw, it was me. I think you could do a lot worse than BMR.

 

Aren't you on your third alternator? I think I see a pattern here

 

About the BMR LCAs, most of the failures people used to have were related to the old design, the new one they have is a better design

 

I've had no problem with my BMR's and would strongly recommend then to anyone.

 

Just got off the phone with Chuck at CHE. Arms and Anti -squat brackets are on the way. He seems very personable and proffessional.

I will update this after the drag racing weekend if anyone wants to see the results to compare before and after times. I'm hoping our +-1.90 60' times improve a bit

Jerry

 

let us know - I am sure they will

 

well you do have kind of a low stall converter. You launch at only 3000 RPMs. With my stick car I launch at 5500 RPMs and I have almost the same mods as you. Your launch RPM isn't high enough to get your 60' down to compete with us manual guys. that's your biggest problem. I'm not sure the LCAs will do anything because you're not getting enough power down to need them, unless you are wheel hopping or something.

I'm convinced you are going to be disappointed with the results

 

I think with the cooler weather coming in you can pick up enough to get into the 12's with an off road pipe(h or x). The off road h from Pypes would not be a big hit on your wallet either, and sheds weight also.

 

Maybe it is the track you are at (altitude??) because I would think you should be in the 12's with the mods you originally posted, including MT- Streets. Those 60's seem slow for those mods and tires.

Maybe a custom dyno tune from a local shop can put a little more HP to the rear wheels.

Oh, just noticed your piloting an automatic. That could be part of the problem. The autos have a lot more parasitic drive train loss in HP compared to the manuals. But then you'll have folks argue that the manuals are too inconsistant and we really don't want to start that arguement all over again, do we?

 

The only mod you need is free, get her out of the car and put a man behind the wheel!!! You'll being seeing 12s all day long!
Women are lousy drivers!

 

True, but not the whole story. The first started going before I installed the eH2O pump (2 years ago). It never died, but since I was getting the P0340/P0345 codes, I replaced it with a used one I got on eBay for $65, which went in after the engine build. Who knows how good it was to begin with. I'm sure draining the battery a couple times didn't help it either. I replaced it with a rebuilt unit that's still going strong.

 

go buy a belt about 9-10" shorter then what you have and just bypass the p/s pump. it's a quick easy thing to do at the track and will gain you at least 2 tenths and 4-5 mph.

 

I wish that would work on mine...

 

why wouldn't it. instead of going around the p/s pump i go around the grooved idler pulley everything else is the same.

 

Hey Spyder do you have a part number for the belt you are running and any steering issues other than it's now manual?

Thanks

 

Here is the belt diagram for the KB... Can't see how it would work unless a grooved pulley was added in the #7 position.

.

 

Thanks Spyder, This sounds like a something fun to try at the track on test and tune day and see the difference. A part # would be great

To clarify, We've been in the 12's already, we just want to always be in the 12's instead of flirting with them from time to time.

The sway bar delete is something that sounds good as well. Has anyone had any issue at all with normal driving after taking that off? After going to the strip for 3 years now I think the weight issue is very important. Every little bit of chub on the car that isn't needed just slows you down.

As far as a women driver goes, I think comments like that do nothing but show your intelligence level.