GimliMustang

As posted before my wife has been drag racing our '05 Mustang GT auto since new and we have slowly added mods along the way. Some have been very noticeable, and some (lately) seem to have helped very little. We have kinda settled in with time right around that 13.00-13.15 range and would much rather be in the high 12's. We have dipped into the 12's on rare occasions with a best time of 12.89. 60 foot times are usually in the 1.90 range with the best being 1.83.

Anyway here are the mods in the order they were installed.

TCI Streetfighter 3000 torque converter
C & L racer intake with SCT 2 and Bamachips tunes
Steeda underpullies
MT 26x11.5x17LT ET streets
Steeda CMDP"S
Coast Aluminum driveshaft
GTA Mufflers
Ford Racing 3:73 gears

The last few mods, driveshaft & gears, really have had no effect or very little on our times. Granted we installed those in the heart of summer when track temps and conditions were at their worst for the year. We have updated the tunes from Doug along the way, we just want to always be in the 12's instead of the very low 13's.

I'm tired of throwing money at this car and that's why for the last 4 weekends at the track we have found a home around 13.10.

My question is for you guys that have been there and down this, what are the mods that would benefit us most at this point. If I can't do a few more things to get into the high 12's then some of this stuff is coming off and I need to decide with blower to go with.

I thinking control arms would help? Also the exhaust is all stock excpet for the GTA's?

thanks and looking forward to your advice.

Jerry and Nancy

superman112

Lower control arms??

tom281

Some easy mods would be suspension or weight reduction of some kind.

Burke0011

Yeah lower control arms (BMR) would definitely help.

that and some weight reduction (pull the backseat, jack and spare - do you have a Shaker sub? pull that too) will help


......Then again there is always putting a Proflow bottle in the trunk.....

R-code

Lower control arms should drop your 60' times a bit. Might try an offroad X-pipe, if you can stand the noise.

~Mike~

GimliMustang

I'm at the BMR site now. They have a few different kinds of packages to choose from, I forgot to mention we have a BMR safety loop and strut bar.

Are BMR considered one of the best?


We always have the spare tire/ jack removed. We have the big Sub in the back but have never taken it out. We usually have around a 1/4 tank of gas when we are at the strip.

Looking for more thoughts and advice......

I need this stuff ordered today to get it and put it on for the end of September racing wekend.

Burke0011

BMR's stuff is definitely considered at the top

There should be a few connectors for electronics and three to four bolts and BINGO that shaker 1000 sub is out and saving you some weight

The Reverend

Under 12 second times possible with this...
Engine mods:
CAI, CMCV deletes, UDP, Shifter, SCT X-Cal 2, Meziere Electric Water Pump,
Exhaust mods:
Long Tube Headers, X-pipe, axlebacks,
Transmission mods:
Aluminum 1-piece driveshaft, FRPP 4.30's
Suspension mods:
ET Streets, LCAs, UCA (p.s. a tire is a spring)
Weight mods:
No spare tire, empty fuel tank, and car and driver diet.

So I would recommend adding in stages:
1. LCA and UCA via BMR or CHE.
2. Meziere water pump.
3. LTH and x-pipe.

dustindu4

Take your front swaybar out (free), ditch the stock H pipe and go offroad (200), adjustable rear shocks (200), LCAs (150?)

I think going 3.73s really hurt you as opposed to going 4.10s, your 60' sucks

dustindu4

I have the water pump and it doesn't do anything for you, I wish I had never gotten it. I've spent $1000 on alternators and batteries ever since I got it

The Reverend

I heard of a guy with only 299 hp / 310 tq run 12.2 secs in the 1/4 mile.
IMHO it is about your weight, His car weights in at 3300 pounds, No seats except for an aluminium one.

Mods: Bamachips SCT tune, steeda cai, steeda udp, steeda cmcv deletes, driveshaft, 3800+stall convertor,4.30 gears, M/T, hooker LTH, o/r h-pipe stock mufflers, coilovers, LCAs.

r/t does it matter
60' 1.6 to 1.8
330 4.9 to 5.1
1/8 7.7 to 8.1
mph 86-88
1000' 10 to 11
1/4 12.2 to 12.4
mph 108 to 111

There is nothing secret, the usual bolt-ons.

GimliMustang

Ok, I'm trying to decide which BMR lca's to get. How important is it to get the adjustable ones? What I'm asking is if I get the billet non adjustable's will I regret it down the road if I start to do more mods to the suspension? Do I need the relocation brackets? If a guy gets the asdjustable LCA's and nothing else is there really any adjusting to them that would help?

thanks

Jerry

dustindu4

Adjustables will really only help you out if you lower your car that's it. Dual hyme joint ended LCA are race only, on the street you will want to bang your head on the pavement. The hyme joint at one end and the poly at the other is asking for trouble, they poly will surely fail first. If you have poly at both ends then you have 2 ends absorbing instead of one. Go with the dual poly ended LCAs

get these:
TCA019Tubular Lower Control Arms w/poly bushings$134.95 pr.

The billet is a waste of money, tubular is just as good.

soitsav6

get some LCAs, the J&M ones I have didnt add any noise, the BMRs did,

I didnt see what kind of tires you had, get some dr's if you dont have them

upgrade the exhaust

get the car dyno tuned

lose some weight out of the car

keep going to the track and practice


I would do the cheapest things first to see what changes, make sure you keep up with the weather and track conditions, no sense trying to beat out something you cant control

281GT

I got BMR's billet aluminum non adjustable LCA's (part # ACA004) and their LCA brackets (Part # CAB005). I have the brackets on the lowest setting.
This COMPLETLEY eliminated my wheel hop issues.
You might also want to consider long tube headers and high flow cats or an off road pipe. There are some pretty substantial hp gains to be had there.

max2000jp

I ran 12.90 N/A with just 555Rs(suck) C&L intake, Diablosport canned tune, OR X-Pipe and Magnaflow Mufflers. The only suspension work I had done at the time was an UCA and LCA. I believe I pulled a 1.85 60'. There was more left in the 60', I just never went back to the track.

don_w

That's not 100% true. My car is not lowered, and I needed LCA relo brackets, and adj LCA just to get the LCA angle corrected. It was pointing down. I needed to get it angled up (towards the front of the car), to change the instant center and increase anti-squat.


Dam, dude... that's just bad luck. You know the Ford alternators are crappy. I seriously doubt it's the H2O pump, otherwise a whole bunch of us would have the same problems.

Fman67

Love the honesty on some of these parts..."sucking"..lol. Im beginning to think we don't need half the stuff we get for these cars...doesn't do much

don_w

Do you just make this stuff up sometimes Dustin?

I've been running the BMR poly/spherical LCAs for well over year and 16K miles. I also have 600+ runs on them, almost all on slicks (about 70 on DRS), and putting down in excess of 450 rwtq. I can't seem to hurt them... maybe I'm just lucky.

DavidM

I agree with Don.

1. Anti roll bar eliminator/radiator support
2. Electric water pump
3. Drag wheels "Big N Littles"

As close as you are this should put you solid into the 12 second range with good driving.