Achieving 340-400 bhp naturally aspirated
1/6/09, 12:24 PM
#24
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You can do what Jim D'Amore III did from JDM with their Mustang. Thing is at 405 rwhp or something close. Heads, Cams, L/Ts, among other things. Check out the link below. THIS IS MY DREAM SETUP!!!
JDM 3V Stroker Mustang.
JDM 3V Stroker Mustang.
1/7/09, 05:05 AM
#25
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That stroker kit looks like the ticket: 80-85 hp per liter. Anyone have numbers for the 5.0 stroker, Ported heads, and cams? If it was so easy to do, why didn't Ford just give us 5.0 strokers at the factory? I can't imagine the stroker parts costing much more than the stock parts.
1/7/09, 09:18 AM
#27
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or rear-ends anymore!
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The only thing that affects is the style of piston. Price is about right though. If your going to stay N/A I would definitely look at an 11:1 compression it's something not many people have done yet but would be a good time. As far as the numbers you were wanting, I don't even have full bolt ons so I wouldn't be that far from what your looking for. If you go with a pretty aggressive cam you could easily be barking down 430-440's door with full bolt on's. The reason Ford doesn't do this is they are cheap, simply put. If you can save say 10 dollars on 1 car, think how much you'll save on several million. As stated earlier Saleen does and Steeda also does with the Q635. Also have to decide if you want a true 302 - that's decided by your over bore and a true 302 would be a .020 over bore.
1/7/09, 03:34 PM
#28
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Bragging rights: Imagine telling other gearheads that your Mustang has 350-400 crank hp (naturally aspirated) and gets 32 MPG on the highway using 87 octane gas. 1/4 mile ET and 0-60 MPH is great for the track, but I prefer to use my GT as a Grand Touring car, and the boost in MPG and power is greatly appreciated so long as it doesn't hurt driveability.
John: What kind of mods do you have?
EagleStroker: What kind of heads did you get? How do the Crane cams compare to the FRPP "Hot Rod" cams? The reason I ask is that the FRPP Hot Rod 4.6 3V makes 350 hp at the crank. According to FRPP, it gets +30 rwhp from the hot rod cams and +20 rwhp from the CNC ported heads.
John: What kind of mods do you have?
EagleStroker: What kind of heads did you get? How do the Crane cams compare to the FRPP "Hot Rod" cams? The reason I ask is that the FRPP Hot Rod 4.6 3V makes 350 hp at the crank. According to FRPP, it gets +30 rwhp from the hot rod cams and +20 rwhp from the CNC ported heads.
My friends would be impressed if I rolled up and said my car makes 600hp and still gets me to work and back reliably. A s/c doesn't hurt drivability. I've driven my friends whippled GT and never even heard the supercharger whine driving to the parts store 4 miles away. Drives like a normal car till he plants his foot.
1/7/09, 03:38 PM
#29
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I never said forced induction affects driveability. However superchargers are a dead giveaway why the engine makes so much power. I've seen it at the track: "Dude, that was awesome, what kind of motor do you have? Oh, it's supercharged..."
1/7/09, 03:50 PM
#30
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or rear-ends anymore!
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That was a big seller for me. I've got a solid motor, don't have to worry about it and am putting down the same a lot of s/c's are to be honest.
1/7/09, 06:44 PM
#31
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Unfortunetly drivability does get effected when you drive a big hp N/A engine that wasent meant to do so. Even with VVT the peak power would be produced way higher in the rpm... which is good for the track but bad for everyday. I can start in 2nd gear with no gas in my car, the car pulls pretty hard in the low end range and still spins fast enough to provide excelent aceleration. However once you cam an engine you are displacing power to the high rpm range wheather you want to or not. Basicaly going n/a makes the car act like a little 4cyl honda. You need to rev the ***** off the engine to get started.
However all is not lost, you need to up your rear gear ratio considerably 4.33 or even 4.55's then you need a nice 6 speed with double overdrive to come even close to respectable fuel economy. The downside is that providing tracktion, a guy with a bolt on supercharger will smoke your butt off the line and get to the limit of the cars areodynamic capacity faster than you, while still returning better economy and maintaining very good road manners.
My personal advice would be, drop the stang.... and buy a jap or german car thats already strung out to the limit. Im sure youll be in good company with them.
However all is not lost, you need to up your rear gear ratio considerably 4.33 or even 4.55's then you need a nice 6 speed with double overdrive to come even close to respectable fuel economy. The downside is that providing tracktion, a guy with a bolt on supercharger will smoke your butt off the line and get to the limit of the cars areodynamic capacity faster than you, while still returning better economy and maintaining very good road manners.
My personal advice would be, drop the stang.... and buy a jap or german car thats already strung out to the limit. Im sure youll be in good company with them.
1/7/09, 08:55 PM
#32
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Unfortunetly drivability does get effected when you drive a big hp N/A engine that wasent meant to do so. Even with VVT the peak power would be produced way higher in the rpm... which is good for the track but bad for everyday. I can start in 2nd gear with no gas in my car, the car pulls pretty hard in the low end range and still spins fast enough to provide excelent aceleration. However once you cam an engine you are displacing power to the high rpm range wheather you want to or not. Basicaly going n/a makes the car act like a little 4cyl honda. You need to rev the ***** off the engine to get started.
However all is not lost, you need to up your rear gear ratio considerably 4.33 or even 4.55's then you need a nice 6 speed with double overdrive to come even close to respectable fuel economy. The downside is that providing tracktion, a guy with a bolt on supercharger will smoke your butt off the line and get to the limit of the cars areodynamic capacity faster than you, while still returning better economy and maintaining very good road manners.
My personal advice would be, drop the stang.... and buy a jap or german car thats already strung out to the limit. Im sure youll be in good company with them.
However all is not lost, you need to up your rear gear ratio considerably 4.33 or even 4.55's then you need a nice 6 speed with double overdrive to come even close to respectable fuel economy. The downside is that providing tracktion, a guy with a bolt on supercharger will smoke your butt off the line and get to the limit of the cars areodynamic capacity faster than you, while still returning better economy and maintaining very good road manners.
My personal advice would be, drop the stang.... and buy a jap or german car thats already strung out to the limit. Im sure youll be in good company with them.
1/7/09, 10:00 PM
#33
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!
Join Date: September 23, 2008
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Unfortunetly drivability does get effected when you drive a big hp N/A engine that wasent meant to do so. Even with VVT the peak power would be produced way higher in the rpm... which is good for the track but bad for everyday. I can start in 2nd gear with no gas in my car, the car pulls pretty hard in the low end range and still spins fast enough to provide excelent aceleration. However once you cam an engine you are displacing power to the high rpm range wheather you want to or not. Basicaly going n/a makes the car act like a little 4cyl honda. You need to rev the ***** off the engine to get started.
However all is not lost, you need to up your rear gear ratio considerably 4.33 or even 4.55's then you need a nice 6 speed with double overdrive to come even close to respectable fuel economy. The downside is that providing tracktion, a guy with a bolt on supercharger will smoke your butt off the line and get to the limit of the cars areodynamic capacity faster than you, while still returning better economy and maintaining very good road manners.
My personal advice would be, drop the stang.... and buy a jap or german car thats already strung out to the limit. Im sure youll be in good company with them.
However all is not lost, you need to up your rear gear ratio considerably 4.33 or even 4.55's then you need a nice 6 speed with double overdrive to come even close to respectable fuel economy. The downside is that providing tracktion, a guy with a bolt on supercharger will smoke your butt off the line and get to the limit of the cars areodynamic capacity faster than you, while still returning better economy and maintaining very good road manners.
My personal advice would be, drop the stang.... and buy a jap or german car thats already strung out to the limit. Im sure youll be in good company with them.
Honestly man, take it from someone that owns one it still performs great and im running STOCK 3.31's. 3.73's would be perfect in this car, any of your gear suggestions would be WAY to much, a 4.10 would be about the most I would go with the way it runs now.
I have respect for a s/c'd car, but please understand there are different ways of breaking through the same mountain. Everyone's entitled to their opinion, but a Honda is definitely not comparable to my car.
12/30/10, 09:02 PM
#34
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Man, I've accumulated a bit. This is EVERYTHING, not just the ones that contribute to HP:
-Appearance-
1969 Boss 302 paint theme (hood, sides, spoilers, trunk lid)
New spoiler from Spoiler Depot
CDC chin spoiler
Hood pins
Redline Tuning hood struts
-Exhaust-
Mac axleback muffler
JBA h-pipe
JBA titanium coated longtube headers
-Engine-
C&L cold air intake with custom SCT XCAL2, 93 octane
Steeda delete plates
Comp Stage II cams and springs (#127300)
Steeda underdrive pullies
-Drivetrain-
Spec II+ clutch
Spec steel flywheel
Spydershaft Aluminum driveshaft
Metco front driveshaft loop
FRPP 4.10 gears
MGW shifter
-Suspension-
BMR strut tower brace
BMR boxed lower control arms and relocation brackets
BMR adjustable upper control arm
BMR tubular k-member
BMR radiator support/front swaybar delete bracket
BMR Xtreme Antiroll Bar
QA-1 adjustable race shocks
Steeda springs
-Wheels and Tires (Street)-
18" AFS Mach 1 wheels (18x9")
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires 275/40-18 at all 4 corners
-Wheels and Tires (Track)-
17" Bullitt Wheel replicas (17x9")
Mickey Thompson 275/40-17 ET Streets Radials (26")
-Interior-
Autmeter DPSS stage 2 shift light gauge
S&S A-pillar dual gauge pod
Autometer water temperature gauge
Rear seat delete
-Appearance-
1969 Boss 302 paint theme (hood, sides, spoilers, trunk lid)
New spoiler from Spoiler Depot
CDC chin spoiler
Hood pins
Redline Tuning hood struts
-Exhaust-
Mac axleback muffler
JBA h-pipe
JBA titanium coated longtube headers
-Engine-
C&L cold air intake with custom SCT XCAL2, 93 octane
Steeda delete plates
Comp Stage II cams and springs (#127300)
Steeda underdrive pullies
-Drivetrain-
Spec II+ clutch
Spec steel flywheel
Spydershaft Aluminum driveshaft
Metco front driveshaft loop
FRPP 4.10 gears
MGW shifter
-Suspension-
BMR strut tower brace
BMR boxed lower control arms and relocation brackets
BMR adjustable upper control arm
BMR tubular k-member
BMR radiator support/front swaybar delete bracket
BMR Xtreme Antiroll Bar
QA-1 adjustable race shocks
Steeda springs
-Wheels and Tires (Street)-
18" AFS Mach 1 wheels (18x9")
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires 275/40-18 at all 4 corners
-Wheels and Tires (Track)-
17" Bullitt Wheel replicas (17x9")
Mickey Thompson 275/40-17 ET Streets Radials (26")
-Interior-
Autmeter DPSS stage 2 shift light gauge
S&S A-pillar dual gauge pod
Autometer water temperature gauge
Rear seat delete
4/17/11, 09:26 PM
#35
V6 Member
Don't know about 87 octane but Ford Racing claims that this package (see link below) with supporting mods will give over 400 flywheel hp.
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...m-fr4-s197.htm
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...m-fr4-s197.htm
4/18/11, 08:50 PM
#38
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Don't know about 87 octane but Ford Racing claims that this package (see link below) with supporting mods will give over 400 flywheel hp.
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...m-fr4-s197.htm
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...m-fr4-s197.htm
4/26/11, 09:42 PM
#39
Legacy TMS Member
That stroker kit looks like the ticket: 80-85 hp per liter. Anyone have numbers for the 5.0 stroker, Ported heads, and cams? If it was so easy to do, why didn't Ford just give us 5.0 strokers at the factory? I can't imagine the stroker parts costing much more than the stock parts.
Probably a longevity issue using the 4.6 deck height, anytime you add stroke and limit the R/S ratio, side loading on the piston goes up which effects longevity and mechanical effciency due to increased friction. Its not really an issue in the aftermarket but for an OE trying to keep the EPA off its back (more emissions than mileage), you've got to take every advanate you can get.
My question has always been; Why didn't Ford do an aluminum 3v 5.4 with an M6/A6 trans from the get-go?
That would have been 350hp/375tq if trimmed out like the 05-09 4.6 3v GT motor and about 370hp/380tq in 2010 trim, plus Ford could have had an all aluminum 5.4 4v in 2007 with the GT500.
