GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

313.2 rwhp/327.2rwtq SAE HP

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Old 4/27/05, 08:49 AM
  #21  
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I figured the CMP would lose torque down low but that doesn't seem to be the case at all. I justed noticed that after your post Boss, they really ran her on that dyno. They stoped mine at 6K RPM's. It looked like David's HP peaked at about 6250....I set my rev limiter to 6500 RPM, time to go back to the dyno. I'm now considering the CMP again... :bang:
Old 4/27/05, 05:18 PM
  #22  
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Thank you to all, I'm excited! I'm in Tampa now for work instead of being at the track tonight. :angry: The headers and exhaust do flow very well. Some of the guys at Steeda have asked me for the Stainless Works info so they can contact them. They are interested in selling their product. Not that it'll happen, I just relayed the info. I was hoping for 320 rwhp, but it was warm out and I drove the car for an 2 hrs before getting there. It cooled down for about 45 mins, so the engine was still hot. Otherwise, I'm happy with it. I did hit 320 rwhp but STD HP. I never knew about the SAE/STD differences in dyno #'s. I'd like to see some dyno charts for products of different manufacturers again-specifically CAI I'll be going Friday to re-learn my car at the track. Boss-did you ever get your rearend fixed? I know it was too big
Originally posted by The Boss Hog@April 27, 2005, 5:27 AM
David,
Excellent numbers Looking at your dyno chart, I do have a couple of observations:
1. I am really impressed with the gain caused by the headers. If you look at the stock headers, they look like they would flow very well. With stock cams, I did not expect to see that big of gain.
2. Your torque curve has the same characteristic rise at about 3200 rpm as I have seen in every other manual '05 dyno run. I always thought it was caused by the IRMC flapper valves opening. Since you eliminated the flappers, something else must cause that rise. Maybe the variable cam is retarding its timing at that point?
3. SAE numbers are the only way to get apples-to-apples. They are the actual numbers corrected to a standard set of atmospheric conditions (barometer, temp, humidity). Without that correction, the guys in Denver or other high altitude locations would be very unhappy.

Keep us posted. Looking forward to you posting new, low times from Moroso.

The Boss Hog

PS 7,200 rpm redline
Old 4/27/05, 06:15 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by 169stang@April 27, 2005, 7:21 PM
... Boss-did you ever get your rearend fixed? I know it was too big

Well . . . . yes and no. It seams to run ok but is still a lot louder than what I think is normal. Still trying to decide what to do.

Later,

The Boss Hog . . . . . . . . liposuction?
Old 4/27/05, 07:27 PM
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It kinda depends on what the backlash was set at. Now that I have 4.30's and the backlash is 10 thousandths, it is louder than the 4.10's which had more backlash. The more backlash you have, the the quieter the gears will be when you decelerate and louder at take off. The less backlash, visa versa. Atleast this is how my novice mind understands it. Also, as I understand it, for a racing setup, you want less backlash. Street, you want a little more backlash. I'd ask if they know what backlash they set it at. If they have no idea, I would want to know why.

LIPO...LOL
Old 4/28/05, 09:14 AM
  #25  
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Very impressive. Great to see the 2005's taking off so fast.
Old 4/30/05, 03:56 PM
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The track was closed last night (Friday). It's driving me crazy. I'll post some new numbers Wednesday when I get home from the track.
Old 4/30/05, 04:02 PM
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Looks like I need to get some long tubes and some CMP's....nice #'s!
Old 4/30/05, 04:26 PM
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Thanks Stranger, I mean John. Where the heck have you been? Wait, never mind, I've know. I wouldn't be on here either with a pair of those hangin around!
Old 4/30/05, 04:46 PM
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I wish I could get your hp numbers and head to the track. Im going to have to send my dyno sheets off to my tuner and see if he can improve on the tune he made for me. I plan on going to the World Ford Challenge 8 in St. Louis in a couple of weeks and hope to be racing in the Modular Street Class. Most of those cars have been running high 11's and mid 12's. With slicks I think I can be there but I am worried about losing MPH and RPM with the taller tire.
Old 4/30/05, 09:31 PM
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I was losing 2 mph when I decreased my tire by 2 psi. That's with launching at exactly 4200 rpm and shifting at 6300 in every gear-pretty consistently. I'm waiting on wiring schematics to install my shift light. I bought a Autometer pin light that unplugs. That's so my wife doesn't gripe at me for the light being on the dash when she's driving it. I'll just use a little piece of velcro in the corner by the windshield. I'll be putting in a 6400 shifting chip. I just need to locate the tach wire in the monsterous wiring cluster. I am ready to get to the track. :drive:
Old 4/30/05, 11:14 PM
  #31  
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LOL....yeah, been gone too long...you guys always get me spending money so I've tried to stay away....dropped in today and here I am with another 1500 worth of stuff I gotta buy now...you bastages! LOL

John

P.S. Looking forward to seeing your times very soon bro!!!
Old 5/1/05, 09:49 AM
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David, my wife is asking me to put a shift light in the car for when she races at the track. When you get the info you need in order to install the light let me know, I need to do it as well.

P.S. Did you install your line locks or did you have it done? Sorry if I have already asked you but I am worried about bleeding the system after putting them in. I have bled disc brakes on my 66 but of course there is no computer/anti-lock to deal with.
Old 5/1/05, 01:14 PM
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For the shift light, you'll need atleast 2 parts, the typical shift light and a tach adapter. The shift light I have requires 3 parts, pen shift light, remote box for the light, and the tach adapter. Typically, you would put the rpm chip in the back of the shift light. The remote box I have takes the rpm chip, so that the shift light itself remains tiny. I'll let you know when I know!
I had the line locks installed. I didn't want to mess around with the ABS. Besides, I really hate bleeding a brake line.
Old 5/1/05, 01:18 PM
  #34  
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David- you gotta show us some videos!
Old 5/1/05, 07:46 PM
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I have a few, just need a way to post it! I'm not sure what times I ran in them or if the times are even shown. I'm going to try to get a buddy to film up by the staging lights. With my digital camera, it doesn't zoom in in video mode. Maybe I can get my buddy to bring his video camera. If someone wants me to send the video's I have, let me know.
Old 5/1/05, 07:50 PM
  #36  
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Bleeding brakes with ABS is no different. Just make sure you never send air (or dirt or anything) back up the line, because tahts what damages the ABS motor. If you are only cracking the bleeder and not compressing the caliper, you shouldnt have to worry about that.

David: Is that 12.86 time with all those mods, or before they were all done?
Old 5/1/05, 08:01 PM
  #37  
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Before the latest mods. I was at 294rwhp when I scored the 12.86. I haven't been to the track since the 313 rwhp. Looking at this Wednesday night.
Old 5/2/05, 08:04 AM
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David, I want the vids of your car (dhof303@aol.com). I have similar vids but I am working on transfering them from my SONY camera to my computer, I don't have a memory stick and have to use USB cable.

Fazm, thanks for the brake info!

Thanks,
Derek
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