Ok, now that the vert has received its 5000 mile service, and most not all of the rattles have been taken care of by the dealer, its time to tackle the soft rear-end. I’d like to improve the cornering of the vert a bit IMHO it is not as flat in the corners as it could be.

Assumptions
1. The front sway bar on a GT vert is the same as the coupe?
a. Anyone know the size?
2. The rear sway bar on a GT vert is different than a coupe?
a. Anyone know the size (Coupe)?
b. Anyone know the size (Vert)?

If the above assumptions are true, seems like a new set of sway bars front and back would be the best way to go. However, reading an article from mustangmonthly.com (http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featuredvehi...das/index1.html ) that was posted here on the TMS forum. The article recommendations are a new lower profile set of tires and larger wheels, then springs, then sway bars. I’d like to get the forums thoughts on the subject mainly I’m looking for a consensus on whether it is a waste of money to just add sway bars if I’m not considering any of the other modifications for some time (2 years plus). I.e. what would then be the best way to flattening out the corning on a small budget? Thanks in advance for your assistance.


Regards
Matthew


06 GT Vert
Torch Red
17” PPCAW
IUP / ICAP

 

Assumptions
1. The front sway bar on a GT vert is the same as the coupe?

Yes

a. Anyone know the size?

34mm

2. The rear sway bar on a GT vert is different than a coupe?

Potentially. There are two out there (both the same dia though). The coupe GT's originally came with a bar that was mostly straight except at the ends. The convertibles required a bar with a couple extra bends to clear the frame reinforcement beams out back. I believe Ford may have switched to the 'vert style bar now even on the coupes as it fits both cars

a. Anyone know the size (Coupe)?

22mm

b. Anyone know the size (Vert)?

22mm

 

I know the Vert's suspension was tuned slightly softer than the coupes because: A. Ford figured vert buyers weren't so hard-core performance mongers and B., the vert's chassis isn't quite as stiff.

By softness, I presume you mean more roll softness? Stiffer roll bars would be an easy fix here, with perhaps a bit more relative stiffness in the rear bar to decrease understeer. Lowering the car would lower the CG and net better transitional responses.

Stiffer springs and shocks would tighten up response too, but I'd be a bit judicious here given the vert's not-as-stiff chassis and your presumed street use. Often, a bit more compliant, supple suspension will give better real world handling than a stiff one that shows great bragging numbers on a smooth skidpad/track but is easily thrown awry by the lumps and bumps we really do most of our driving on.

Better, low profile tires can really tighten up responses and grip too, as can stiffer suspension bushings. But these too will decrease suspension compliance and suppleness over bumps, so again, realistically assess your goals here (real world vs off-road track) and tune accordingly. It's all too easy to go for the Nth degree of handling only to end up with a big-number car that sounds far better bragging at the bar than it is to actually drive on the street. It's not just how fast a car will go, but how well the car goes fast.

 

What HE ^^^^^^^ said...

 

I installed Steeda Ultralite springs and FRPP dampers and it is a WORLD of difference. Very tight, not jaring but very tight and responsive. Tires will definitely be on my list for next purchase to eliminate the rest of the sloppieness.

 

I would first work to stiffen the chassis. With my 'verts in the past, that was always the best place to start. The new car is stiffer, defintely, but it could always be better. Having a stiffer chassis allows the suspension to do its job much better.

Then, it is a matter of how far you want to take it. Sways will help a bit (but more in tuning the balance front to rear). Springs/dampers would probably be the most difference. I would think about the Saleen setup purely becasue it is tuned to be a bit less hard core and the springs/dampers are already matched (both in stiffness and in length). From there, it is thinking about bushings and roll-center adjustments and all that stuff, but I doubt you want to go down that path as it is a vert.

 

I just added Steeda Ultralite springs and rear lower control arms. Tightened up the roll in corners. Lane switching feels quicker. The ride is now like a sports car instead of a cruiser. Not bad at all. An easy upgrade that takes the "slop" out. (Looks great too!!)


Before: Attachment 1013

After: Attachment 1014


-Chris

 

I just installed the FRPP strut tower brace - That did seem to help in cornering a bit, but with 17" tires there is too much sidewall to flex IMHO... time to invest in some 18"+ wheels (once I wear my Pzeros out a bit more... )

I wonder how much difference the Steeda springs will make without the lower control arms?

 

ok, I am stupid, what are FRPP Dampners?? I know what the FRPP means, but what dampner are you talking about?