First part of a series on strong ideas why NOT to use certain things that have grown in popularity lately. I hope you guys enjoy and think critically.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-part-1-of-4/


Part two:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-part-2-of-4/

Part Three:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-part-3-of-4/


Part Four, the Summary:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...y-part-4-of-4/

 

thanks for posting.. its a good read.. waiting 4 rest of article

 

I didn't read anything there about why you shouldn't?????
Some people don't want to spend 4 hours cleaning their car, those who do will anyway. Yet to read anything wrong with semi-perm. Coating.

 

I think the start of the series argues that the semi-perm coatings are a waste of money when a properly waxed surface will have the same result with less money out of your pocket. Good point.

 

Original post updated with Part Two of Four

 

when i loaded up i couldnt see the pic u posted in the article

 

Okay so now I'm confused. A little.

 

No worries: next article should be out by Monday. For now, I hope it gets you thinking and contemplating.

 

So it isn't bad for the car, the guy is just talking about value.

 

Yes. Numerous layers i.e. Sealant, glaze, wax etc is unnecessary. A quality sealant will protect the clear coat, last long, and make it easy to clean. The other things don't hurt but also don't add any extra protection. Especially when the carnauba (typically the last coat) doesn't last long and needs constant reapplication.

 

I guess I still am just a traditional kind of guy.

 

True. Nothing wrong with layers. Sometimes I'll carnauba on top of sealant (remember sealant is nothing more than synthetic wax vs carnauba being natural) because sealant can't produce the same wet look as carnauba. But that's only if I'm doing a show or something.

I think these articles aim more to the professional. The regular owner using layers to look 100% is no big deal. But as a pro doing this for money (as Marc does) it's a waste of product and time.

 

I agree with this. Although if you are doing it for someone else who wants it done and they are spending the money I would advise them it's probably a waste because I have some sort of ethical standards. I do it because like you said, the natural wax gives it that super wet look that you just can't get with the synthetic wax.

 

Yes sir. Ethics separate a quality business from one that fails. I don't necessarily go out of my way to tell them not to get it because most don't come in and ask. I just don't have it in the package and when I disclose what I'm doing I explain what the outcome will be. It's important to talk to the client, see what they want, and set very clear expectations of results.

99% of customers will be blown away by the results. It's mostly technique not product anyway. So there would be no reason for me to buy and stock lots of carnauba, then spend the time when I could be doing extra cars. And finally I'd have to jack the prices to cover the extra cost and time which puts things out of reach for some or makes frequency less possible.

However for older show cars I'll use it sometimes again with the explanation of the difference they will see.

 

I do mobile detailing when i can and i usually meet with the clients beforehand and ask what it is they want. The majority just wNt a simple wash and wax and a good looking ride. But then i meet folks that really care about the appearance of their vehicle and we usually talk awhile before i really get started.

They know they difference between waxes, sealants, and those semi-permanent coatings. I have a tin of megs gold class carnuba and some klasse polish and klasse high gloss sealant. I also have some collinite 915 which to me is like a hybrid wax cuz it lasts so long. I go over each product i have as well as their pros and cons.

Typically ill wash (sometimes waterless wash with ultima or megs products) and then i start with the tires. I use turtle wax black tire coating which gives tires a wet look but is dry to the touch. Supposed to let it dry for 45 min to an hour which is why i do it first after puttin some sealant on the rims. I do sealant because it lasts longer so it withstands brake dust and road grime better and longer. Makes em muuuch easier to clean even on the inside of the rim.

After that i use klasse all in one polish (sometimes claybar before if the client is gettin ready for a show, most folks dont want it) followed by a layer of either gold class or klasse sealant. I even use the sealant on all the exterior glass except for the windshileld. Mothers back to black on plastic trim, aquapel or rain-x on the windshield, and i use allooottt of MF cloths to make sure everything is buffed out well. By the time i finish the exterior, the wheels are already dried.

I also teach my client as i go along if they decide to sit and watch or ill let them try applying or buffing off the wax or sealant so they can learn a bit themselves.

As an amatuer i try to do as many cars as i can as frequent as i can. The semi permanent coatings are usually something id rather not do for the fear of possibly messing up the application. For professionals i can see why you go against it because its usually pretty expensive, lasts a looong time so that means less customer volume or at least less frequency which means possibly less income. Saying that, however, those guys that usually do really high end cars that rarely get driven i can see the appeal there.

Theres alot of variables to consider with those types of coatings and while i may use them for mine and family members cars, i tend to leave em at home when i go to meet clients.

 

Not good my friend. If a client wants a polish they need to understand that claying is a must. If the pad picks up any deposits it will mar the clear and do more harm than good. I'd also recommend a traditional 2 part polish. You need to level then polish. It's rare that a car will only need the second step. Those all in ones don't do enough on some cars and do too much on others. You need the separation for better quality control.

 

Well i recommend the clay bar but they usually dont want it cuz it takes alot longer. I even try tellim em ill just do it without adding to the cost at all but most say no. Its mostly older guys in the 40+ range that like the full cycle

 

I guess as long as they understand the outcome and risks of skipping that step it's all good.

 

Yea i tell em that the polish and sealant/wax wont be able to bond as well and there may still be some stuff in the paint which could get picked up by the buffer or cloth and cause marring or scratches/swirls. Most of the cars are DD's anyway so i guess that why most dont care for that step. If they drop the car off though ill usually sneak the clay bar in if i can

 

I always clay my customer's cars. I figure if they're bringing it to me, & they're paying me to do it right, I'm going to allow myself the time to do just that.