Here's how to fix the two most extreme paint imperfections that you might come across: debris inside the paint itself, and runs.

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Steck makes a 'nib file' about 12 bucks at a paint shop... a little 1" square file on a wood block- looks coarse as hell, but the teeth are honed so as not to suck in, just allow ample cure time, gently pull the little file across the runs, takes a few minutes, but erases them to flush, a light polish and done.
just be certain the clear has dried thoroughly- i tried filing a sag out of a urethane clear about two hours after spraying, was still soft enough it pulled into the clear, left a little gouge... just dabbed a little clear over the scratch, filed again a few hours lter and polished. touchy maybe, but a lot better chance of success than blocking without breaking thru

edit- pic of some on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steck-Manufa...989381&vxp=mtr

 

block it flat and polish... a paint shop should be able to do it reasonable- you can do it yourself, but if you get into the color, you got a bigger problem...

the nib file and polish can be safer, but not without risk. maybe 'touch up' glops of clear on any smooth painted scrap object with some of the same clear and try it- its pretty easy, just gotta get a feel for it and go slow.

for polishing, my favorite is still he 40-50 yr old bluecoral cleaner/sealer two part wax, i'm down to my last kit...just by hand, it cuts smoother faster than any polishing compound ive ever used- kinda hard to find these days, I found ten NOS kits on ebay like 15 yrs ago, running out

 

heres one! if you want it go ahead, or i'll buy it tomorrow hard to find these anymore!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Blue...484725&vxp=mtr

darn... says he had 4 kits and i missed them

 

15 minutes with a nib file, 10 with 1200 grit wetblocking, 10-15 minutes hand polishing with blue coral cleaner/microfiber, another 10 more hand buffing with the sealer, any panel can be pretty darn nice...