Got it!! Thx.

 

There's something wrong with the product you're using, or how you're using it.

The product could have seperated and isn't working as formulated, or you could be applying during the dew point or something along those lines.

Which exact product are you using? Meguiar's has a huge line, so saying a quick wax doesn't help much.

I'm also thinking you're applying way too thick. If you use something like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Wax, it's designed to be applied as thin as possible. Applying thicker will give you less shine, slickness, durability, and could easily leave your finish looking cloudy as in the picture you posted.


Don't worry about compounding/heavy polishing for now. Here's what I'd recommend:

1. Wash the car with dish soap to strip the finish of all wax/sealant/products currently on the finish in the shade when the car is cool.

2. Dry the car

3. Once dry, go over with a very thin application of a product like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Wax using a clean microfiber towel.

4. Report back your findings on how things look.

 

Do you have any ideas on how to fix this? LOL. I ended up ordering a new one. Missed the deer hit the curb.


image by benbrengman, on Flickr

 

You're doing the only fix possible lol

 

There are companies that specialize in wheel repair.

 

Or just plastidip the whole wheel.

 

I looked into it. It would cost about $200 for them to fix it. I decided to replace it with a new one from Hypermotive. I may still get it fixed just incase if something happens.

 

Ok, it's supposed to rain today so ill wash tomorrow and wax tomorrow as instructed.

This is the wax I have been using.

Ill be back with results.
Thx.

 

Sorry pic wouldn't upload

It's Meguiers ultimate quick wax with the yellow car on it.

 

Sorry to see bjb

Yup. Yellow GT-R on the front. I'm guessing main issue is you're using way too much.

 

Hmmm. Ok. Ill report this weekend after car wash and new bottle of same product ( using sparingly).

 

I got her fixed. New Wheel :-)

 

Marc,
I did everything EXACTLY as you suggested and this time it came out perfect. I bought new microfiber towels, new ultimate quick wax and used the dish soap as instructed. I also held the bottle back about 18" when spraying it and did this all towards the end of the day when the sun was going down but still light enough to wash and wax. ( slightly humid out though).

Thank you very very much for the suggestions. That part is back on track.

The bad part is I have some very hard water stains that I can see now that the swirls are gone. I have well water and although I have a filter in the house it shows up terrible on hood, roof and trunk.

Is this something that clay bar or compound, will take off at the end of the season before storage or am I F@$ked? ( the car is garaged all winter).

Again thanks for all the help.

 

You can polish them out (if the clay bar doesn't get them). Vinegar can also work, but will also remove any wax or sealant on there so you need to do that again. It just depends if the spots are etched in, or just sitting on the clear. Vinegar & clay bar should work fine if they're not etched, but cutting into the clear is necessary if they are etched in.

 

Thanks for answering a question I was planning on asking.

Unrelated to this thread, but still a detailing concern, I have been wanting to try Liquid Glass after seeing some amazing results on various cars.

It was recommended that I first remove previous layers of wax, polish, and detail wax spray with isopropol alcohol, but frankly I had reservations about that.

I had considered vinegar as a prep agent since it does such a great job of removing water spots on my black Mustang. Now I know that it'll strip the build up, and that will be a project at some point this week once I get the Liquid Glass.

Thanks for reading my mind.

 

You can also use dish soap for that. I'd actually prefer the soap for a wash as it should lubricate a bit better then just vinegar, unless the car is already free of any dirt, etc.

 

I need to try the vinegar suggestion on the inside lip of the engine bay. Water spots that just don't wanna come out.

 

Vinegar works on water spotting because it's an acid. The idea of it is this:

1. Water that has mineral disposits dissolved gets on your car's surface.
2. water evaporates leaving the minerals/contamination behind.
3. use an acid type substance to emulsify the contaminates into the acidic substance
4. remove acidic substance that is contaminated with minerals from the finish.

There are also dedicated water spot removers available. Their advantage is they're not just acidic, they're usually formulated to a gel-like substance, which dwells on the surface much better and longer. The longer dwell time will better remove contamination more effeciently.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Search?...r+spot+remover


Joey is also spot-on when saying that if there's any etching (damage to the actual clear-coat), it'll need to be removed by polishing. First thing is first though: wash the car, remove the contamination from the finish, inspect, wax/seal or perform polishinhg AKA paint correction adn then wax/seal.

 

Thanks. I got it fixed last week. Jay took care of me and the local shop did installed it for free.

What advice do you have for windows. Mainly the back one.

 

Good to hear.


LOL have fun! Honestly make sure you have dedicated glass towels that are made to have good bite, take your time, break down the panel to be cleaned in smaller sections and do a section thoroughly at a time.

http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...02/16-x-12-S1/