Many times I've used straight water as a clay lubricant once the QD supplied with the kits ran out. I had no trouble from doing it that way, despite people on forums telling me that there's no way it'd work. Lately I've started filling the QD bottles with water, & adding a couple drops of my Poorboy's Super Slick N Suds soap in it to give it more lubricity. Anyone else tried using car wash soap mixed with water as a lubricant while claying?

 

Every time i clay this is what i use.
I tried water mixed with white vinegar+dish soap to remove any polishes, waxes, sealants, and oils while i was polishing as well. Really helps clean the paint to the max so its ready for all new polish and protection

 

What's the go-to product for removing bugs, that doesn't remove wax/sealant? I find just washing with my mitt generally doesn't remove them all.

 

I've always just used my chamois after I rinse it out from drying the car off to do the glass. It's seemed to work fine for me.....is there anything really "wrong" with doing this?

Also, the previous owner liked to douse the dash in armor all every time he washed the car. When the sun gets on the dash the armor evaporates and causes a haze on the inside of the windshield, any ideas how to strip the armor all?

 

If you find it, let me know.
Anything that can help to easily remove something as stubborn as bugs is strong enough to remove wax. Personally, I'd rather easily remove them and apply a little extra protection to those areas in the end.


There's no where for contaminates to go with a chamois, putting your paint at risk. This is why most stick to a leaf blower / microfiber towels.

I'd recommend 1Z Deep Plastic Cleaner as it's strong and works well. Use as directed as to not ruin anything on your car: it's a pro-grade type of product.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Einszet...472/500-ml-S1/

 

What about the bug eraser sponge from autogeej or the bug scrubber thing from megs? The sponge feels super coarse and seems like itll wreck the paint but it actually just shreds bugs and leaves a nice clean surface behind with some soapy water

 

So finally washed the wife's minivan. Hit the wheels up with some P21S to get the grime off before I start actually washing the van. Hit the first one up with some elbow grease and the 1" detail brush around the lip of the wheel. Hit the rest up, rinsed. Noticed that there is some sort of corrosion on a couple of spots around the lip and a spot or two on the actual wheel surface. I can't tell if it's under the clear coat or what. It's raised on the spots. I'm trying to figure out if they are shot or if there's a way to save them. I will post pictures tomorrow. By the time I got finished with repairing the finish on the hood and got some wax on it it was just dark enough to call it quits.

 

Sounds like clear-coat failure on the wheel finish. No unusual

 

Mine has a couple similar spots (they are small, however). It looks like the paint wasn't applied correctly, and a few spots were missed. Whatever it is, it's under the clear coat and the clear appears to be in good condition.

 

Wheel lip





Wheel spoke





Hood finish

 

Yup, sorry to see. They'll have to be refinished

 

I will just deal with the eye sore. This vehicle isn't going to be leaving Germany when the family does. Unfortunately I had to pay to ship it over here as the government paid to ship my Mustang here so this one won't be coming back with us.

 

Couple questions:

I've heard that Sonax wheel cleaner can be bad for some brake parts, would it be best to only use it when the wheels have been removed?

Also, I came into some Optimum no rinse recently. I never really planned on using it, but now that I have a bottle I might as well give it a go. Is it preferable to use distilled water with it to avoid water spots and such? Our water is SUPER hard...

 

As far as testing sonax on a wheel thats been removed i dont see any harm in that, but ive also never heard of it being potentially harmful to some brake parts.

With the ONR using distilled water wouldnt hurt but the times ive used it with my hose water (hard as rock) and it was fine. Just try not to let it dry to prevent the water spots. What i would recommend is doing one section at a time starting with the roof. For example, do the roof then buff it out. Then all the glass and a,b, and c pillars and buff. Then hood and trunk lid etc etc. This will prevent the solution from drying therefore avoiding the water spots yea its a lil more work but its worth it in the enx

 

Never had any issues when using Sonax on wheels that are on the vehicle if you get some over spray on the rotors, there will be a little surface rust, similar to when get water on them. A little spray of brake cleaner and a drive around the block will take care of it!

 

I did mine and my dad's truck today. Didn't notice any issue with my brakes, but my dad's seemed to squeal a bit when he first drove it. Not sure how much even got on his brakes, his wheels aren't very open.

I've heard the Sonax eats zinc coatings, and he does have aftermarket rotors on there. They might be zinc coated, not sure.

 

zinc coated rotors = $$$$
Yup probably got a little overspray on the disc

 

Maybe someone can help me out.
I want to detail my car..wash, clay, polish, wax.. the whole 9 yards.
But I have a few scratches first. Some are deep (can see white) other are minor.

Id like to know what is the proper process.
Wash, fix scratches, clay, polish/wax Or
Wash, clay, fix scratches, polish/wax Or
Wash, ???
thx

 

I would wash, then use something like dr color chip for the deep scratches. Once those are cured, I would wash again, clay, level (compound) to get the minor scratches out, polish, seal, the wax.

 

Ok, I have read through just about every post in this thread. I had just recently bought some Turtle Wax Ice products and now regret spending that money. I have the car wash, Clay bar system with both the bar itself and a bottle of "liquid clay" (this is not the lubricant for the bar), paste wax, synthetic spray wax and spray detailer. I also have Meguiar's Cleaner Wax and Swirl X available to me since my cousin has some. I have hand-washed the car every week so far, but have yet to wax it since I just bought the wax last weekend. I can't afford to toss all that stuff, so I'm going to have to use it up before spending a bunch of money to replace it. As I empty one, I will replace it with a higher quality product.

In the meantime, I have a few questions:

1.) Which line is typically the more highly regarded in terms of quality (and ease of use, when applicable), Griot's or Adam's?

2.) I live in the Charlotte, NC area, my 2 month old 2014 Deep Impact Blue (very hard to keep clean) Mustang is my daily driver and parked outside unfortunately. Where I live shares a several hundred foot long gravel (therefore, dusty) driveway with 3 other homes. My cousin (neighbor) has a cat that we can't get to stay off the cars at night. Having said all of that, what are your thoughts on using a car cover to protect from weather, dust and cats? Do car covers potentially do more damage than just leaving it uncovered?

3.) I have some slight scratches in the finish despite using a 2-bucket wash method, microfiber wash mitt, and microfiber towels for drying since day 1. I have no detailing power tools (although I'd like to get that Porter Cable tool I've seen mentioned so much in this thread), so is there something I could/should do to help get those light scratches out, or do I really need to wait until I have the extra cash for the Porter Cable? I did read the multiple statements about trying to do certain things by hand and the problems/challenges that come with it.

4.) Is leaving wax on over night (while parked in a garage) really more beneficial than doing the standard wax on/wax off method? Does it really bond better or add any extra benefit?

5.) Thoughts on using one of those silicone water blades for drying? I feel like that would add more blemishes to the finish.

6.) Out of the Turtle Wax Ice products I've listed above, along with the info I provided about the vehicle and it's conditions, if there was ONE product you'd tell me to add or replace in my current line up, what would that be and why?

7.) Which is more beneficial to achieving as perfect a finish as possible; a polish or a sealant? Whichever the answer is, would this be in addition to waxing or in place of?

Thank you for all of the tremendous information in this thread and for any time you spend answering any of my above questions! I just wish I had read this thread a couple weeks ago.