A Prius killed my mustang.
6/1/14, 06:40 PM
#21
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From my experience working in body shops that damage could be fixed. But then again being that its a 2014 with 8k on the odometer they might just total it out and put you in a new one. Which brings up the aftermarket parts. Yes if they are salvagable you should be able to remove them if they total it out. I dont believe you would have to replace them with oem parts since the car would be going to a wrecking yard. For a car to be totaled out the repair cost has to be aroumd 50% of value at time of accident. For example. I had a wreck in my F150 and I was paying $36,000 for it. If the cost of repair hit $15,000 it would have been totaled. The cost to repair my F150 hit $14,800 at a Ford dealership body shop.
Also if the imsurance will let you take it anywhere you want to. Take it to a Ford dealership. They will replace the parts with oem spec parts I do believe.
Also if the imsurance will let you take it anywhere you want to. Take it to a Ford dealership. They will replace the parts with oem spec parts I do believe.
6/1/14, 08:57 PM
#22
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Thanks to everyone for your input! Tomorrow will be Monday, and I will be able to go to the body shop the wrecker took it to and actually get a bit more information about the whole situation.
For those whom had mentioned air bags, My air bags did not deploy. surprisingly, I thought they would have.
Also, another question I did have was that a few items in the car did get tossed through the car and caused some damage to the interior trim as well, I am assuming that insurance will cover that as well correct?
Furthermore, I am wanting to check out the damage to the back end, I wasn't able to get too good of a look at the time of the incident, but the prius was lodged under the back end of my car, and I am pretty sure that there will be some bending to some of the exhaust components.
If I am able to take some better pictures of the car when I go check it out ill post em up!
For those whom had mentioned air bags, My air bags did not deploy. surprisingly, I thought they would have.
Also, another question I did have was that a few items in the car did get tossed through the car and caused some damage to the interior trim as well, I am assuming that insurance will cover that as well correct?
Furthermore, I am wanting to check out the damage to the back end, I wasn't able to get too good of a look at the time of the incident, but the prius was lodged under the back end of my car, and I am pretty sure that there will be some bending to some of the exhaust components.
If I am able to take some better pictures of the car when I go check it out ill post em up!
6/1/14, 10:04 PM
#23
I am sorry to say but I have been through this a few times. I am glad areveyone is ok but I know how it feels to have your baby hit.
I have always had the cars totaled. depending on your insurance company.. if it is one of the big ones like others have said bring it to a Ford dealer and demand all new OEM parts. The cost will skyrocket and when it hits 50.5% to repair vs replace you will get it replaced. Also make sure if there is any mods add ones that you let them know what the cost was. I have 2 kids driving and I drive around 50K a year I have had my share of people not paying attention and hit me.
It really sucks but make sure they take care of it right and talk with the Body shop.
Once they find out the Frame is Bent... It will be bent right???? You will get a replacement.
Good Luck Glad all are OK...
I have always had the cars totaled. depending on your insurance company.. if it is one of the big ones like others have said bring it to a Ford dealer and demand all new OEM parts. The cost will skyrocket and when it hits 50.5% to repair vs replace you will get it replaced. Also make sure if there is any mods add ones that you let them know what the cost was. I have 2 kids driving and I drive around 50K a year I have had my share of people not paying attention and hit me.
It really sucks but make sure they take care of it right and talk with the Body shop.
Once they find out the Frame is Bent... It will be bent right???? You will get a replacement.
Good Luck Glad all are OK...
6/1/14, 10:44 PM
#24
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Wow, that really sucks. Haven't had mine much longer than you and I would be sick. Hope it all works out and the put you in a new one. Glad to hear that you are ok.
6/2/14, 12:50 AM
#25
A prius came from behind me doing what I am assuming highway speed, so about 65 and slams into the back of my 2014 and hurls me into the back end of the truck, the force was enough to push the truck into the prelude that was infront of him and cause some serious damage as well.
If you got a police report, it should have the approximate speed of the Prius. If it was going 65, I'd have expected much more damage.
I wouldn't say "bad." I think the damage is "significant" but fully repairable (i.e., to perfect condition). I presume there's no apparent damage to the vehicle in the area between the two photos?
Ive been trying to think of all the outcomes of this, and if they do total the car, all of the investment into the car, are they a complete loss? Will I be able to retrieve the parts I put onto the car to put onto a replacement stang if this is the case? (i.e CAI, Salleen wheels, Viper alarm system, sound system, etc etc.)
I don't think this looks like a total loss. How was the engine? Did you lose more than the radiator?
If I am correct, the late model Mustangs are unibody (not sure when this started, 2005 maybe). I believe that a competent body shop can restore a unibody frame to 100%.
I had a significant rear end collision in a unibody Honda that I owned and babied, and I would say that it was repaired to 99.9%. the extra .1% required a very careful eye, and the only way to detect the tiny deformation in the rear quarter panel was to examine the reflection of a straight line in the body panel and observe how the line breaks up. They did a good job, the line only had some minor waves. I'd say this particular job cost about $7k in the early 2000s. It was about as bad as your front collision, and your rear collision looks no worse than a bumper cover, if that.
If it ends up getting totaled (I doubt), I'm pretty sure you can work out with the insurance company whether they will rate the depreciated value of the aftermarket parts or sell them (or the entire car) back to you as salvage. If it gets this far, just ask. It's not like the insurance company is going to be protective of a totaled vehicle.
Here's the important part: How are your back and neck? That part cost me and my wife (then girlfriend) like $3k in treatments but the interruption in our lives seemed to cost much more than that. I recommend you avoid settling with the insurance company until you're sure that you and any passengers are perfectly healthy.
Edit: One thing I forgot. I believe you are entitled to either a rental car or "loss of use." At least you are in my state. All I had to do was ask about it. Since I had a second car, I took the money.
Last edited by berzerk_1980; 6/2/14 at 12:52 AM. Reason: Left something out by accident
6/2/14, 06:18 AM
#26
FR500 Member
Setting the record straight about insurance claims
Hey guys and gals
First, let me apologize in advance for the length of this post. Those who have recently had an auto claim will probably read it twice. If it doesn't pertain directly to you though, it'll be pretty boring. Sorry!!!!
There's a lot of misinformation floating around about auto insurance and auto claims in general. I've only been a member of this forum for two weeks, and I've already read about a several collision and comprehensive losses with some of my fellow members Mustangs.
Let me first say that accidents suck, but they happen. I understand that it's difficult not to become emotional when your pride and joy is damaged for any reason. But never forget that if you walk away from a collision unscathed or with just some bumps and bruises, you dodged a bullet. The pain and stress of losing your car goes away in a very short time. Severe injuries sometimes never heal.
My background....
I just retired at the end of April after over 33 years as an auto claims adjuster. Most of my career was spent as a field adjuster/appraiser, and the last 7 years I was a Senior Salvage/Total Loss Specialist. Throughout my tenure, I've handled perhaps 15,000 or more total losses, and countless other repairable claims. I've inspected and settled some pretty gruesome collisions.
Every state has different procedures and regulations as dictated by their respective insurance departments. I'll speak to NJ because that's where I was based and the vast majority of claims that I was involved with either directly or indirectly occured there. Most of what I explain here is general in nature. There are always exceptions to every rule.
Also, the nature of the beast in my profession is to consider "worst case" scenarios when I discuss with my customers and friends their indivual claim and circumstances of their loss.
All that said, here are some things you need to know:
An insurance policy is a legal contract that you've agreed to. There are rights and obligations that both parties must adhere to.
The method in which your insurance company handles your claim is dictated by the laws in that state where the loss occured.
Who's at fault?
Most claims are not clear cut 100% at fault occurances. In most states each party involved in the loss bears some degree of responsibility for the accident. Nothing is etched in stone. Nothing.
But generally speaking, if you are directly rear ended, or if your car is parked when hit, then it is almost always the fault of the other driver. I have seen exceptions to that though, but it's rare.
All other cases are subject to shared negligence.
In most states, NO FAULT has nothing to do with the circumstances. It applies to how you collect for injuries sustained in a loss.
Who should I make my claim to?
a) FIRST PARTY = your insurance company
When you collect from your own company, who is at fault is of no consequence. They don't have to investigate to the point of delaying your claim statutorily. You have coverage, they owe you expeditious resolution of your loss as long as there is no fraud or misreprentation. Your insurance company is obligated to protect your interests.
Regardless of who you think is at fault, in most cases you are better off letting your own collision carrier handle your claim. You pay a premium for that service, and if you are a long standing customer, you have a chance of being treated better, and certain issues you have may be resolved in a little more lenient of a fashion.
Your deductible will apply, but if the loss is the fault (or majority of fault) of the other party, then your insurance company will make every attempt at collecting for the entire loss, including your proportionate share of the deductible.
b) THIRD PARTY = OVC (other vehicle's carrier)
The other carrier is obligated to protect their customer's interests. They, like your own company and in the face of any lack of impartial evidence, must take the side of their own customer. Your claim can be delayed legally for 30 days or more while they conduct an investigation. A police report is not the end all to be all. It's only a part of the picture....and sometimes just a very small part.
Even if the accident is 100% the fault of the other driver, if he/she only has a minimum policy, you won't be paid in full if your damages exceed that minimum.
For instance, you have $10,000 in damages, but the other person only has a $5000 policy, then that is the max they will pay for your damages, rental, towing, combined.
The OVC will settle your claim based on the state's regulations. The other driver could be drunk, speeding, have a pound of cocaine of the front seat, driving without a license, and transporting illegal aliens across state lines. But if you made a left turn in front of him, you are greater than 50% at fault in NJ as well as many other states, and you are barred from collecting. It's refered to as proximate cause.
REPAIRABLE LOSSES: aftermarket/used parts/OEM
The insurance company makes the call. Read your policy for specifics....it will address this issue. Usually if a car is older than one year, the insurance company will allow used or aftermarket parts.
Most reputable insurance companies will not allow a/m structural, suspension, or safety related items. Certain items like air bags and suspension should be OEM. Structural parts such as 1/4 panel sections, or partial 3/4 replacement of rear sections are fine. Technically they are actually OEM because they came from a car just like yours.
The best thing you can do is to select a shop that you trust. They will fight for you. Most have good relationships with insurance companies, and the general rule of thumb is that if your carrier initially allows a/m sheet metal, as long as the shop proves that they replaced the part with OEM, then they will be paid the differance on a supplement.
But it's the insurance company's initial damage report that gets the ball rolling. The adjuster will only write for what he knows to be damaged, not what he thinks the ultimate cost of repair will be.
Likewise, when a shop writes you an estimate, that's all it is....an estimate. The true cost of damages isn't known until the job is completed.
Don't get spooked if your carrier writes a report for $3000 and the shop gives you an estimate for $5000. Somewhere in between lies the true cost of repair.
And this is very important.......
Any quality shop will agree.....the best way to repair a car is to do the least amount of work necessary to bring it back to pre-loss condition. In otherwords, you as the owner should want your car repaired with as little molestation as possible. Sometimes that means replacing the entire 1/4 panel...or perhaps just repairing the part. If a structural item such as a frame member, floor, or apron can be safely repaired within manufacturer's specs, that's what you want. You want to preserve as much of the factory integrity and corrosion protection as possible, and this includes paint.
TOTAL LOSSES: Repair vs. Replacement
Here's where it gets tricky, and every case is based on it's own merits.
It is the insurance company's decision to repair or replace. There is NO set percentage that is dictated by state law that I am aware of.
A general rule of thumb is 70-80% damage to value. But I have totalled cars at 50% if there is a liklihood of unseen damages that in my experience will result in very long down-time or structural compromise that is yet to be determined.
(I once inspected and totalled a brand new $25,000 Monte Carlo with less than 1000 miles that had what would have amounted to approximately $800 in damages...it's a long story and I won't get into it here)
The amount of potential salvage return is also a factor.
I've also agreed to let a car be repaired even when the damages are 90% to value. Again, it's the insurance company's business decision.
WHAT IS THE VALUE OF MY MUSTANG?
Sorry folks....what you think it's worth to you because it's your baby, or have an emotional attachment, or because you planned on keeping it until it became a collectible doesn't enter into the picture. State Insurance law will dictate the method in which the value is arrived at.
Most policies are ACV (actual cash value) and that means replacement cost minus deprciation.
If approved by state law, most insurance companies are using real-time market surveys based on what similar vehicles have been selling for, or have sold for over the last 30-60 days.
Generally speaking, sources such as NADA or the KBB are not considered. These are simply a dealer's opinion of what they'd attempt to get for the car if they had it on their lot. But if they can't back it up with actual used cars that they have in inventory, then the books are just a guess.
MODIFICATIONS YOU'VE DONE TO YOUR MUSTANG
You're not going to like hearing this folks!!!!
Generally speaking, if your Mustang's value by market survey is $20,000, but you've done $10,000 in suspension, engine, exterior and interior mods, your Mustang is worth $20,000.
Most insurance companies position is that when they wrote the policy on your 2013 GT/CS, it was for the car as it was intended from Ford. You're on your own if you modify the car after you've gotten your policy.
There's nothing wrong with altering your car, but installing a supercharger does not increase the car's market value. In fact, I can make a very good argument that modifications decrease it's value.
The company will allow you to remove parts you've installed as long as you replace them with the originals, but often times that's not practical.
MISC
Someone mentioned Mustang unibody having been just a recent development. For the record, most cars, and all Mustangs, regardless of year, are of unitized construction.
Here's a bit of trivia for you.....the first unitized car was the 1937 Chrysler Airflow.
If anyone has specific questions, please feel free to PM me.
Again, apologies for the long read, but I hope this helps.
Tom
First, let me apologize in advance for the length of this post. Those who have recently had an auto claim will probably read it twice. If it doesn't pertain directly to you though, it'll be pretty boring. Sorry!!!!
There's a lot of misinformation floating around about auto insurance and auto claims in general. I've only been a member of this forum for two weeks, and I've already read about a several collision and comprehensive losses with some of my fellow members Mustangs.
Let me first say that accidents suck, but they happen. I understand that it's difficult not to become emotional when your pride and joy is damaged for any reason. But never forget that if you walk away from a collision unscathed or with just some bumps and bruises, you dodged a bullet. The pain and stress of losing your car goes away in a very short time. Severe injuries sometimes never heal.
My background....
I just retired at the end of April after over 33 years as an auto claims adjuster. Most of my career was spent as a field adjuster/appraiser, and the last 7 years I was a Senior Salvage/Total Loss Specialist. Throughout my tenure, I've handled perhaps 15,000 or more total losses, and countless other repairable claims. I've inspected and settled some pretty gruesome collisions.
Every state has different procedures and regulations as dictated by their respective insurance departments. I'll speak to NJ because that's where I was based and the vast majority of claims that I was involved with either directly or indirectly occured there. Most of what I explain here is general in nature. There are always exceptions to every rule.
Also, the nature of the beast in my profession is to consider "worst case" scenarios when I discuss with my customers and friends their indivual claim and circumstances of their loss.
All that said, here are some things you need to know:
An insurance policy is a legal contract that you've agreed to. There are rights and obligations that both parties must adhere to.
The method in which your insurance company handles your claim is dictated by the laws in that state where the loss occured.
Who's at fault?
Most claims are not clear cut 100% at fault occurances. In most states each party involved in the loss bears some degree of responsibility for the accident. Nothing is etched in stone. Nothing.
But generally speaking, if you are directly rear ended, or if your car is parked when hit, then it is almost always the fault of the other driver. I have seen exceptions to that though, but it's rare.
All other cases are subject to shared negligence.
In most states, NO FAULT has nothing to do with the circumstances. It applies to how you collect for injuries sustained in a loss.
Who should I make my claim to?
a) FIRST PARTY = your insurance company
When you collect from your own company, who is at fault is of no consequence. They don't have to investigate to the point of delaying your claim statutorily. You have coverage, they owe you expeditious resolution of your loss as long as there is no fraud or misreprentation. Your insurance company is obligated to protect your interests.
Regardless of who you think is at fault, in most cases you are better off letting your own collision carrier handle your claim. You pay a premium for that service, and if you are a long standing customer, you have a chance of being treated better, and certain issues you have may be resolved in a little more lenient of a fashion.
Your deductible will apply, but if the loss is the fault (or majority of fault) of the other party, then your insurance company will make every attempt at collecting for the entire loss, including your proportionate share of the deductible.
b) THIRD PARTY = OVC (other vehicle's carrier)
The other carrier is obligated to protect their customer's interests. They, like your own company and in the face of any lack of impartial evidence, must take the side of their own customer. Your claim can be delayed legally for 30 days or more while they conduct an investigation. A police report is not the end all to be all. It's only a part of the picture....and sometimes just a very small part.
Even if the accident is 100% the fault of the other driver, if he/she only has a minimum policy, you won't be paid in full if your damages exceed that minimum.
For instance, you have $10,000 in damages, but the other person only has a $5000 policy, then that is the max they will pay for your damages, rental, towing, combined.
The OVC will settle your claim based on the state's regulations. The other driver could be drunk, speeding, have a pound of cocaine of the front seat, driving without a license, and transporting illegal aliens across state lines. But if you made a left turn in front of him, you are greater than 50% at fault in NJ as well as many other states, and you are barred from collecting. It's refered to as proximate cause.
REPAIRABLE LOSSES: aftermarket/used parts/OEM
The insurance company makes the call. Read your policy for specifics....it will address this issue. Usually if a car is older than one year, the insurance company will allow used or aftermarket parts.
Most reputable insurance companies will not allow a/m structural, suspension, or safety related items. Certain items like air bags and suspension should be OEM. Structural parts such as 1/4 panel sections, or partial 3/4 replacement of rear sections are fine. Technically they are actually OEM because they came from a car just like yours.
The best thing you can do is to select a shop that you trust. They will fight for you. Most have good relationships with insurance companies, and the general rule of thumb is that if your carrier initially allows a/m sheet metal, as long as the shop proves that they replaced the part with OEM, then they will be paid the differance on a supplement.
But it's the insurance company's initial damage report that gets the ball rolling. The adjuster will only write for what he knows to be damaged, not what he thinks the ultimate cost of repair will be.
Likewise, when a shop writes you an estimate, that's all it is....an estimate. The true cost of damages isn't known until the job is completed.
Don't get spooked if your carrier writes a report for $3000 and the shop gives you an estimate for $5000. Somewhere in between lies the true cost of repair.
And this is very important.......
Any quality shop will agree.....the best way to repair a car is to do the least amount of work necessary to bring it back to pre-loss condition. In otherwords, you as the owner should want your car repaired with as little molestation as possible. Sometimes that means replacing the entire 1/4 panel...or perhaps just repairing the part. If a structural item such as a frame member, floor, or apron can be safely repaired within manufacturer's specs, that's what you want. You want to preserve as much of the factory integrity and corrosion protection as possible, and this includes paint.
TOTAL LOSSES: Repair vs. Replacement
Here's where it gets tricky, and every case is based on it's own merits.
It is the insurance company's decision to repair or replace. There is NO set percentage that is dictated by state law that I am aware of.
A general rule of thumb is 70-80% damage to value. But I have totalled cars at 50% if there is a liklihood of unseen damages that in my experience will result in very long down-time or structural compromise that is yet to be determined.
(I once inspected and totalled a brand new $25,000 Monte Carlo with less than 1000 miles that had what would have amounted to approximately $800 in damages...it's a long story and I won't get into it here)
The amount of potential salvage return is also a factor.
I've also agreed to let a car be repaired even when the damages are 90% to value. Again, it's the insurance company's business decision.
WHAT IS THE VALUE OF MY MUSTANG?
Sorry folks....what you think it's worth to you because it's your baby, or have an emotional attachment, or because you planned on keeping it until it became a collectible doesn't enter into the picture. State Insurance law will dictate the method in which the value is arrived at.
Most policies are ACV (actual cash value) and that means replacement cost minus deprciation.
If approved by state law, most insurance companies are using real-time market surveys based on what similar vehicles have been selling for, or have sold for over the last 30-60 days.
Generally speaking, sources such as NADA or the KBB are not considered. These are simply a dealer's opinion of what they'd attempt to get for the car if they had it on their lot. But if they can't back it up with actual used cars that they have in inventory, then the books are just a guess.
MODIFICATIONS YOU'VE DONE TO YOUR MUSTANG
You're not going to like hearing this folks!!!!
Generally speaking, if your Mustang's value by market survey is $20,000, but you've done $10,000 in suspension, engine, exterior and interior mods, your Mustang is worth $20,000.
Most insurance companies position is that when they wrote the policy on your 2013 GT/CS, it was for the car as it was intended from Ford. You're on your own if you modify the car after you've gotten your policy.
There's nothing wrong with altering your car, but installing a supercharger does not increase the car's market value. In fact, I can make a very good argument that modifications decrease it's value.
The company will allow you to remove parts you've installed as long as you replace them with the originals, but often times that's not practical.
MISC
Someone mentioned Mustang unibody having been just a recent development. For the record, most cars, and all Mustangs, regardless of year, are of unitized construction.
Here's a bit of trivia for you.....the first unitized car was the 1937 Chrysler Airflow.
If anyone has specific questions, please feel free to PM me.
Again, apologies for the long read, but I hope this helps.
Tom
6/2/14, 09:31 AM
#28
Legacy TMS Member
For you guys that do get into an accident, you don't have to release your car to a tow truck driver that will not take your car where you want. Most tow companies tow your car to their yard and then charge you a daily storage fee. You can tell them to take the car to your house and if they say no send them packing and call your own tow truck. Call for your own tow company and save yourself a bit of stress. Some of these tow yards won't even let you near your car while they are storing it.
6/2/14, 10:19 AM
#29
FR500 Member
That's somewhat true, but if the town or municipality is regulated, you're at their mercy. You have no choice, even if you have AAA. And a lot of towing companies are in rotation and it can be as many as a half dozen different tow yards that might get your car off the street. In some areas here, to get your car out of storage after it's been towed, you don't even pay the yard...you have to go to town hall to settle the charges. Towing is very lucrative and there are a lot of fights over city contracts. Such is NJ.
Most insurance companies will cover a maximum of two tows....one to get it off the street, and a second tow to get it to a shop of your choice.
Tom
Most insurance companies will cover a maximum of two tows....one to get it off the street, and a second tow to get it to a shop of your choice.
Tom
6/2/14, 11:06 AM
#30
Legacy TMS Member
That's somewhat true, but if the town or municipality is regulated, you're at their mercy. You have no choice, even if you have AAA. And a lot of towing companies are in rotation and it can be as many as a half dozen different tow yards that might get your car off the street. In some areas here, to get your car out of storage after it's been towed, you don't even pay the yard...you have to go to town hall to settle the charges. Towing is very lucrative and there are a lot of fights over city contracts. Such is NJ. Most insurance companies will cover a maximum of two tows....one to get it off the street, and a second tow to get it to a shop of your choice. Tom
6/2/14, 12:19 PM
#31
Bullitt Member
As a Prius driver he was probably thinking you would all get out of his way!!!
Glad to hear you weren't injured!
6/3/14, 07:15 AM
#32
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Deysha
6/4/14, 01:48 AM
#34
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Update: the at fault party (Prius owner)'s insurance has taken responsibility for the accident. I went and talked to my local ford dealership and was referred to their off site collision center. Estimates for damage are to be written by tomorrow. Hopefully I can get back behind the wheel of my car soon!
Driving this Hyundai sonata I got for a rental is cramping my style! Lol. :P
Driving this Hyundai sonata I got for a rental is cramping my style! Lol. :P
6/4/14, 09:51 PM
#35
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Best wishes. Hope you are back on the road soon, either fixed right or new!
6/5/14, 10:17 PM
#36
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Good news!
The at fault drivers insurance looked at the damages and totaled the car out.
Went to the ford dealership, and ive got a brand new 14 on its way and im even getting the car for 53 dollars less than what the insurance company is giving me for my totaled one
Also, ive sent over the receipts for all my mods and the insurance company said they are going to work with me to get them all on the new one!
The at fault drivers insurance looked at the damages and totaled the car out.
Went to the ford dealership, and ive got a brand new 14 on its way and im even getting the car for 53 dollars less than what the insurance company is giving me for my totaled one
Also, ive sent over the receipts for all my mods and the insurance company said they are going to work with me to get them all on the new one!
6/5/14, 10:28 PM
#37
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Good news!
The at fault drivers insurance looked at the damages and totaled the car out.
Went to the ford dealership, and ive got a brand new 14 on its way and im even getting the car for 53 dollars less than what the insurance company is giving me for my totaled one
Also, ive sent over the receipts for all my mods and the insurance company said they are going to work with me to get them all on the new one!
The at fault drivers insurance looked at the damages and totaled the car out.
Went to the ford dealership, and ive got a brand new 14 on its way and im even getting the car for 53 dollars less than what the insurance company is giving me for my totaled one
Also, ive sent over the receipts for all my mods and the insurance company said they are going to work with me to get them all on the new one!
6/9/14, 08:51 PM
#40
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Congrats!!!