Ponies on The Run (Again)
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Finally got rid of my 17" OEM rims and tires. I got $180 for the tires a month ago and I sold the rims for $200 today. Not bad considering I got within $20 of my $400 goal.
In the process of scoring some UDP's for $125. Camcovers were priority #1 but the UDP deal was to good to pass up. Either way I should be able to score the Podwercoating through a family hook up for atleast half the price of qoutes I got from other places. Other than that I probably won't be doing anymore mods for a couple months unless deals like the UDP's come by.
Next in line...
CMCV Delete plates
CHE Non-Adj LCA's
LCA Anti Squat brackets
In the process of scoring some UDP's for $125. Camcovers were priority #1 but the UDP deal was to good to pass up. Either way I should be able to score the Podwercoating through a family hook up for atleast half the price of qoutes I got from other places. Other than that I probably won't be doing anymore mods for a couple months unless deals like the UDP's come by.
Next in line...
CMCV Delete plates
CHE Non-Adj LCA's
LCA Anti Squat brackets
Looks like you have your 'Mod List' in order!
I'm working it. I sent Raptor 2 e-mails seeing if they'll send me an 'evaluation' light in exchange for free advertising (ie. my write-ups ). So far, they ain't biting.
Last resort, I'll have to cut loose of the $85+ bucks.
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Team Mustang Source
Too bad about raptor not taking you up on the offer. I wasn't thinking about the MGW at all until I read the write up and tested it that brief time that I did.
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First for me are the Steeda Ultralites, then the 4.10 Gears of War. Then some window tinting and then your list. But you are way ahead of me so your list is a home run dude!
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Job complete!
After all was done and the Shaker re-installed (hopefully for the last time!), I downloaded my new 91R tune and took it out for a test drive. All types of driving were put to the test.. cruising, freeway, and my favorite, flogging! All tested fine, no CEL, no fail safe, just pulled like a banshee!
(See the date? My pulley is only 22 days old.)
After all was done and the Shaker re-installed (hopefully for the last time!), I downloaded my new 91R tune and took it out for a test drive. All types of driving were put to the test.. cruising, freeway, and my favorite, flogging! All tested fine, no CEL, no fail safe, just pulled like a banshee!
(See the date? My pulley is only 22 days old.)
So refresh my old memory, while the pulley update again or is this the only will tell by PM?
Regardless, it all looks very nice Bill. Looking forward to the DS mod and how that all plays out.
All in all a good Saturday for the Bill man. Mod-o-rama in full gear.
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I can't wait till you get your mods painted and installed, I'm sure your GT will be a top looker! And the blue valve covers will be very cool, that’s my choice on valve cover color.
Brian you are definitely going to have one nice GT soon, I'm very happy for you
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congrats !!! I know you've been wanting to get rid of the tires & wheels for awhile now. What made you go with CHE over BMR on the LCA, was it the bushing issue ? Doesn't the Anti-squat need to be welded or am I thinking of something else?
Too bad about raptor not taking you up on the offer. I wasn't thinking about the MGW at all until I read the write up and tested it that brief time that I did.
Too bad about raptor not taking you up on the offer. I wasn't thinking about the MGW at all until I read the write up and tested it that brief time that I did.
Haven't heard of any bushing problems with CHE.
Don't have to grease them unlike BMR.
The LCA's have a little bracket to hold the e-brake cables.
You can have them painted whatever color you choose.
From what I've read you only need to weld the antisquat brackets if your cutting 1.6 or better 60' times. I'm no where near that as the best I've gotten was a 2.0. I'm hoping the anti-squats will help improve that.
Leo that’s a great list, one I would do in a heartbeat. and may do so when I free up some more $$$$$
First for me are the Steeda Ultralites, then the 4.10 Gears of War. Then some window tinting and then your list. But you are way ahead of me so your list is a home run dude!
First for me are the Steeda Ultralites, then the 4.10 Gears of War. Then some window tinting and then your list. But you are way ahead of me so your list is a home run dude!
Team Mustang Source
Reason for going with CHE:
Haven't heard of any bushing problems with CHE.
Don't have to grease them unlike BMR.
The LCA's have a little bracket to hold the e-brake cables.
You can have them painted whatever color you choose.
From what I've read you only need to weld the antisquat brackets if your cutting 1.6 or better 60' times. I'm no where near that as the best I've gotten was a 2.0. I'm hoping the anti-squats will help improve that.
Sounds like a good deal go for it. Before you do though have you seen the guy in SD selling his brand new Adj. Tokicos for $400. Something you might want to consider since your coming down this way and for $130 you can have adjustability if that's important to you.
Thanks. I'll probably get new tires before I do gears. Reason being I'm going to go B's to wall and get 4:10's even though it's an auto. So I want to make sure I have some stickier tires so I'm not spinnig all the way through the 60' when I go to the track.
Haven't heard of any bushing problems with CHE.
Don't have to grease them unlike BMR.
The LCA's have a little bracket to hold the e-brake cables.
You can have them painted whatever color you choose.
From what I've read you only need to weld the antisquat brackets if your cutting 1.6 or better 60' times. I'm no where near that as the best I've gotten was a 2.0. I'm hoping the anti-squats will help improve that.
Sounds like a good deal go for it. Before you do though have you seen the guy in SD selling his brand new Adj. Tokicos for $400. Something you might want to consider since your coming down this way and for $130 you can have adjustability if that's important to you.
Thanks. I'll probably get new tires before I do gears. Reason being I'm going to go B's to wall and get 4:10's even though it's an auto. So I want to make sure I have some stickier tires so I'm not spinnig all the way through the 60' when I go to the track.
I already responded to the FRPP guy before I saw this post. Tokico or FRPP were the two I was considering. Adjustability isn't anything I'm really concerned about and that give the nod to the FRPP over the tokico. That and I think the MGAW strut covers wouldn't fit. I really appreciate the head's up though.
Yup, the MGW is pretty sweet.
I 'obtained' a replacement crank pulley for the one I messed up with the brake cleaner ( ). Because of Steeda's excellent customer service, I now have a new pulley.
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I see. Sounds like CHE is definitely the product of choice then. I don't do the drags, yet but the anti-squat sounds like a good deal to get.
I already responded to the FRPP guy before I saw this post. Tokico or FRPP were the two I was considering. Adjustability isn't anything I'm really concerned about and that give the nod to the FRPP over the tokico. That and I think the MGAW strut covers wouldn't fit. I really appreciate the head's up though.
I already responded to the FRPP guy before I saw this post. Tokico or FRPP were the two I was considering. Adjustability isn't anything I'm really concerned about and that give the nod to the FRPP over the tokico. That and I think the MGAW strut covers wouldn't fit. I really appreciate the head's up though.
NP just making sure you saw that post before commiting to the FRRP. When it comes time for me to upgrade the shocks and struts I'll probably go with whichever is the better deal at the time. I'm not a road course guy so I don't think the adj. is that big of a selling point for me either. For now that I'm happy with the stock shocks and struts. Shocks and struts will be a mod that I'll wait for a deal to come by not very high on my list.
But you never know, it may fall somewhere between new tires/rims and a few suspension parts I want to swap out.
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I installed my left side FRPP powder coated chrome cam cover. Why just the left side? Well because FRPP sent me two left sided gaskets HELLO! I spent the rest of the day going to three Ford dealers. Don Knott Ford was out of stock but they said South Bay Ford had 2 in stock. So I arrived at SBF and guess what they were out of stock! So they sent me to Marina Ford, arrived there they said they have it but it was in their other warehouse!
So it looks like I will finish this up Monday night.
Below is the left side:
Since I was inspired by Doctor TacoBill and his installation my istallation progressed well. I changed a few things during my install. Before I loosened anyting I air sprayed the engine...
I was surprised how much sand and dirt came flying out! Next I installed the gasket in the cam cover so it would have a chance to seat. Mine came very twisted
I used this tool to remove my plenum cover it's a 1/4 drive ratchet head with and an extension. Removing the Plenum is not necessary for removal of the cam covers. I removed it in preparation of the the Kenne Bell install.
I decided to remove the coils and detach the all of the connections to the injectors from the get go. I use plastic ties to hold back the wire looms to give me the maximum amount of room when I pulled the cover.
I use 1/4 drive for everything it worked out nice in tight places. You definetly need a universal joint on the socket side. I used a deep socket BTW.
I pulled the big pieces of silicon off by hand. I had to think about something non abrasive method to remove the finer silicon. I didn't have a nice scraper like TacoBill so I used a piece of wood! Hey don't knock it it worked great You know battlefield mechanic!
See it worked great I used some acetone to remove any oill residue where the gasket would seat. (not show).
I applied the RTV silicon, I was told by a mechanic to surround the rubber piece on the head, okay!
I notice a few micro scracthed or marks on the new covers. More on the Left cover than the right one. FRPP recommended using a plastic polish to remove any scratches a product named Novis? I couldn't find this stuff at Auto Zone so I used Meguiars PlastX. This worked great! FRPP cautioned from using chrome cleaners or clear coat polish. This will likey damage your cover.
During my install I used low tact tape to protect the cover as you slide it in (not show). I also put tape on the dip stick tube and any local exposed billet on the strut tower & master cylinder.
Here is that tool again this make the install easy. I started each bolt by hand then used the ratched head to snug all of the bolts down. Then I used a torque wrench set @ 89 inch pounds. Left side done!
Once I finish the right side I do a full write up. Maybe this will help you Brian!
Bill
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Ya Bill I can't wait for KB to come home! Looking at my pictures those ugly exhaust things have to go! Those rusty boys need to be replaced, what's your opinion on Stainless Steel vs Ceramic coated?
Bill
Bill