Ponies on The Run (Again)
6/14/07, 07:04 PM
#9722
6/14/07, 07:05 PM
#9723
Cobra Member
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Here's the final picture after Jackie did her magic on the brightness and contrast... and after I did my magic on the emblem. I also removed the chrome gas cap on the blue car behind me. It was making my dash too cluttered:
She's going to have it blown up to a 11 x 14. Should look pretty good - it's a 3 MB picture.
She's going to have it blown up to a 11 x 14. Should look pretty good - it's a 3 MB picture.
6/14/07, 07:14 PM
#9724
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I did something different with my dyno chart and the dynojet program. Instead of making two separate graphs on top of each other, I made one graph and overlapped torque and A/F ratio so they both take up the entire chart.
Torque is in green, A/F Ratio is in blue (for the same run).
I just think it's neat to watch how closely related the two are. As A/F goes up, torque goes up (1500 RPM). As A/F peaks, torque levels off. As A/F takes that very rich drop, torque drops (3000 RPM). As A/F climbs back to the "best power" mark of 13:1, torque skyrockets and peaks (4000 RPM). Then as A/F starts to decline again, so does torque. It's not directly related, because RPM is also in the formula.
I've decided to dyno it one more time.
We've figured out how to get rid of that very rich valley (3000 RPM) in the A/F ratio. That's when the rods in the carb go rich into "power mode". I'm going to change rods so they are 2 stages leaner and that will bring that valley up quite a bit. It shouldn't drop lower than 11.75:1 or so.
By the way, right there at 3750 RPM is where the secondaries open up... then it goes lean right to 13:1.
After that, the rod change will also help keep A/F from 4000 to 6000 RPM leaner and closer to 13:1.
Torque is in green, A/F Ratio is in blue (for the same run).
I just think it's neat to watch how closely related the two are. As A/F goes up, torque goes up (1500 RPM). As A/F peaks, torque levels off. As A/F takes that very rich drop, torque drops (3000 RPM). As A/F climbs back to the "best power" mark of 13:1, torque skyrockets and peaks (4000 RPM). Then as A/F starts to decline again, so does torque. It's not directly related, because RPM is also in the formula.
I've decided to dyno it one more time.
We've figured out how to get rid of that very rich valley (3000 RPM) in the A/F ratio. That's when the rods in the carb go rich into "power mode". I'm going to change rods so they are 2 stages leaner and that will bring that valley up quite a bit. It shouldn't drop lower than 11.75:1 or so.
By the way, right there at 3750 RPM is where the secondaries open up... then it goes lean right to 13:1.
After that, the rod change will also help keep A/F from 4000 to 6000 RPM leaner and closer to 13:1.
6/14/07, 07:25 PM
#9725
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Join Date: January 26, 2006
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Here's what I have planned:
I'm reducing the gap of the plugs, changing fuel filters (my current one actually filters too good and reduces flow), changing the rods like I mentioned above, changing to synthetic oil, slightly increasing fuel pressure, installing a new distributor cap, advancing timing 2 degrees, and reducing rev-limit to 6200.
All of those should be in the positive direction and will increase HP and TQ from 4000 to 6000 RPM.
6/14/07, 08:06 PM
#9726
Cobra R Member
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I have my Roush shift **** for sale if anyone is interested!
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...258#post940258
6/14/07, 10:28 PM
#9727
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
I did something different with my dyno chart and the dynojet program. Instead of making two separate graphs on top of each other, I made one graph and overlapped torque and A/F ratio so they both take up the entire chart.
Torque is in green, A/F Ratio is in blue (for the same run).
I just think it's neat to watch how closely related the two are. As A/F goes up, torque goes up (1500 RPM). As A/F peaks, torque levels off. As A/F takes that very rich drop, torque drops (3000 RPM). As A/F climbs back to the "best power" mark of 13:1, torque skyrockets and peaks (4000 RPM). Then as A/F starts to decline again, so does torque. It's not directly related, because RPM is also in the formula.
I've decided to dyno it one more time.
We've figured out how to get rid of that very rich valley (3000 RPM) in the A/F ratio. That's when the rods in the carb go rich into "power mode". I'm going to change rods so they are 2 stages leaner and that will bring that valley up quite a bit. It shouldn't drop lower than 11.75:1 or so.
By the way, right there at 3750 RPM is where the secondaries open up... then it goes lean right to 13:1.
After that, the rod change will also help keep A/F from 4000 to 6000 RPM leaner and closer to 13:1.
Torque is in green, A/F Ratio is in blue (for the same run).
I just think it's neat to watch how closely related the two are. As A/F goes up, torque goes up (1500 RPM). As A/F peaks, torque levels off. As A/F takes that very rich drop, torque drops (3000 RPM). As A/F climbs back to the "best power" mark of 13:1, torque skyrockets and peaks (4000 RPM). Then as A/F starts to decline again, so does torque. It's not directly related, because RPM is also in the formula.
I've decided to dyno it one more time.
We've figured out how to get rid of that very rich valley (3000 RPM) in the A/F ratio. That's when the rods in the carb go rich into "power mode". I'm going to change rods so they are 2 stages leaner and that will bring that valley up quite a bit. It shouldn't drop lower than 11.75:1 or so.
By the way, right there at 3750 RPM is where the secondaries open up... then it goes lean right to 13:1.
After that, the rod change will also help keep A/F from 4000 to 6000 RPM leaner and closer to 13:1.
6/15/07, 08:52 AM
#9728
Team Mustang Source
Here's the final picture after Jackie did her magic on the brightness and contrast... and after I did my magic on the emblem. I also removed the chrome gas cap on the blue car behind me. It was making my dash too cluttered:
She's going to have it blown up to a 11 x 14. Should look pretty good - it's a 3 MB picture.
She's going to have it blown up to a 11 x 14. Should look pretty good - it's a 3 MB picture.
6/15/07, 12:05 PM
#9729
Bullitt Member
Join Date: October 13, 2004
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thump, thump, thump.
6/15/07, 12:41 PM
#9730
6/15/07, 01:09 PM
#9731
Cobra R Member
Join Date: May 8, 2006
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I just wanted to let you guys in on a tragedy I discovered today. I went to Ideal automotive to get the tint strip removed from my windshield and I ran into a couple of GT500s. The guy purchased a black GT500 convertable and a red couple with white stripes. One of them was for him, one for his wife. But anyway, the guy put Lambo doors and a touch screen on the black one. When I saw him open the doors, I wanted to puke. They had to modify the body of the car to make the kit fit. Not only that, but he paid $75k for the thing from Brandon Ford.
I also wanted to let you know of the stupidity of the salesmen at Brandon Ford. I stopped in today to see if they had any strut cap kits in stock. So I just casually walk over to the Mustangs and get molested by car salesmen. I'm talking to the guy for a while and he asks me if I like those rooshes over there...I'm really puzzled until I think about what he's trying to say. The guy is working for the biggest Roush dealer in the country and doesn't even know how to say Roush. I certainly knew more about Mustangs than this guy will ever know. How sad.
In more positive news, they had some really nice Stangs in stock at Brandon Ford. The drag pack Roush they had in the showroom was awesome. The grabber GT500 was not too shabby either. I noticed they had a vista GT500 and black Shelby GT sitting outside but I was sick of dealing with the idiots at the place and just wanted to leave.
I also wanted to let you know of the stupidity of the salesmen at Brandon Ford. I stopped in today to see if they had any strut cap kits in stock. So I just casually walk over to the Mustangs and get molested by car salesmen. I'm talking to the guy for a while and he asks me if I like those rooshes over there...I'm really puzzled until I think about what he's trying to say. The guy is working for the biggest Roush dealer in the country and doesn't even know how to say Roush. I certainly knew more about Mustangs than this guy will ever know. How sad.
In more positive news, they had some really nice Stangs in stock at Brandon Ford. The drag pack Roush they had in the showroom was awesome. The grabber GT500 was not too shabby either. I noticed they had a vista GT500 and black Shelby GT sitting outside but I was sick of dealing with the idiots at the place and just wanted to leave.
6/15/07, 02:14 PM
#9732
Team Mustang Source
question for the peanut gallery....
I want to do "something" to my cam(valve) covers. Should I
1) buy or have mine Powercoated Blue covers
2) Paint mine myself ?
Now I've NEVER had a problem with painting valve covers myself, then again I never would have thought I'd have a car that I might put into shows. That being said, they make hi-temp paint for this type of application as well as clearcoat, which I'd use after lightly sanding them down. Could you even tell the between the two ??
I want to do "something" to my cam(valve) covers. Should I
1) buy or have mine Powercoated Blue covers
2) Paint mine myself ?
Now I've NEVER had a problem with painting valve covers myself, then again I never would have thought I'd have a car that I might put into shows. That being said, they make hi-temp paint for this type of application as well as clearcoat, which I'd use after lightly sanding them down. Could you even tell the between the two ??
6/15/07, 02:17 PM
#9733
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: May 24, 2006
Location: San Diego
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question for the peanut gallery....
I want to do "something" to my cam(valve) covers. Should I
1) buy or have mine Powercoated Blue covers
2) Paint mine myself ?
Now I've NEVER had a problem with painting valve covers myself, then again I never would have thought I'd have a car that I might put into shows. That being said, they make hi-temp paint for this type of application as well as clearcoat, which I'd use after lightly sanding them down. Could you even tell the between the two ??
I want to do "something" to my cam(valve) covers. Should I
1) buy or have mine Powercoated Blue covers
2) Paint mine myself ?
Now I've NEVER had a problem with painting valve covers myself, then again I never would have thought I'd have a car that I might put into shows. That being said, they make hi-temp paint for this type of application as well as clearcoat, which I'd use after lightly sanding them down. Could you even tell the between the two ??
6/15/07, 03:03 PM
#9734
GTR Member
Join Date: January 26, 2006
Location: Central Florida
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Get the $4 Dupli-color paint and do it yourself. It's enamel with ceramic. Then use the clearcoat. They have tons of colors and it will look great when you are done. You can do the whole thing for less than $10.
6/15/07, 03:03 PM
#9735
I'm surprised Dealers are still marking up the GT500's that much. 
I vote for #2.
I've read one too many posts on the paint chipping or peeling off the camcovers, no matter how well the surface was prepped, primed, sprayed, and cleared.
I have yet to read 1 negative post on covers that have been powdercoated.
I think Leo's even leaning towards getting his covers powdercoated.
I've read one too many posts on the paint chipping or peeling off the camcovers, no matter how well the surface was prepped, primed, sprayed, and cleared.
I have yet to read 1 negative post on covers that have been powdercoated.
I think Leo's even leaning towards getting his covers powdercoated.
6/15/07, 05:16 PM
#9736
Cobra R Member
Join Date: May 8, 2006
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I vote for #2.
I've read one too many posts on the paint chipping or peeling off the camcovers, no matter how well the surface was prepped, primed, sprayed, and cleared.
I have yet to read 1 negative post on covers that have been powdercoated.
I think Leo's even leaning towards getting his covers powdercoated.
I've read one too many posts on the paint chipping or peeling off the camcovers, no matter how well the surface was prepped, primed, sprayed, and cleared.
I have yet to read 1 negative post on covers that have been powdercoated.
I think Leo's even leaning towards getting his covers powdercoated.
6/15/07, 05:17 PM
#9737
GTR Member
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6/15/07, 05:24 PM
#9738
Oops! Meant option #1.
6/15/07, 05:25 PM
#9739
6/15/07, 05:35 PM
#9740
Next on my mod list...
Raptor shift light.
Found a seller on ebay that's selling them for $85 shipped ($7 cheaper than Raptor direct).
I'm planning on mounting it inside the left-center air vent. I'll have to look inside the vent to see if the black or silver Raptor housing blends in better before placing my order.
Raptor shift light.
Found a seller on ebay that's selling them for $85 shipped ($7 cheaper than Raptor direct).
I'm planning on mounting it inside the left-center air vent. I'll have to look inside the vent to see if the black or silver Raptor housing blends in better before placing my order.