Unless you want your CDC Shaker to suck like mine:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253

 

It can and has been modified. Mine will be modified soon. (C & L) No big performance gains, but I got it for looks. Your GO just SCREAMS for the Shaker.

Down Leo, Down
I don't think you are being negative, but you **** well better like our rides.

#1

That is what I went with, but the JLT2s gains are very similar, and it is considerably cheaper.
Tom, I get your point, but I don't know if anyone else does. Can you post that link AGAIN?

 

I don't think you are being negative, but you **** well better like our rides.
Yeah!

#1
+1 for #1, Leo.

Tom, I get your point, but I don't know if anyone else does. Can you post that link AGAIN?
Alan seems to keep missing it.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showpo...postcount=5253

 

Just like Leo said... +1
Now that all is said and done, I still like my K&N CAI.

Is it better than the other CAI's on the market? No, just personal choice.

Do other CAI's provide more HP gains than the K&N? Absolutely.



I vote #1, no decals.

You want the calipers to blend in with the whole wheel package, not be a focal point when looking at it.



Tom's experiment was a success, where mine failed.

 

Ohh I forgot to post this.

12/30/2006
Update
Your order will go out today.
Thanks, Doug.

Hmm now what could that possibly be.

 

You bought Doctor Doug's Gigarrific Cosmic Euchre?

 

One thing that has been bothering me for a long time is the bolts that attach the struts to the spindle. There is so much slop in both the upper and lower bolts.

So, I finally ordered 9/16" bolts, washers, and lock nuts. All are Grade 8 hardware. The factory bolts are 14mm and 9/16" converts to 14.2875mm. I figured with the little bit extra it would take up more of the slack.

I was right. The bolts slipped right into the strut holes and needed to be lightly tapped through the spindles. When both the upper and lower bolts were in and tapped all the way through, the slop is practically non-existant.

Now I know both sides of the car are identical and I can make small camber adjustments up top where the strut attaches to the strut towers.

In fact, I used a lug nut to hold the rotor tight on the spindle on both sides (with the tire off). Then, I measured from the strut body to the edge of the rotor. This distance changes with the slop in the strut-to-spindle bolts up to 1/4". Now, both distances are identical down to 1/32".

Also, with 9/16" Grade 8 bolts, they can be torqued to 184 lb-ft, so the factory torque of 148 lb-ft needed on the 14mm bolts is no problem (I put 160 lb-ft on all 4 bolts).

I'll take pics of the new pretty bolts tomorrow morning. Then, when I get the tires back on and drive around the block a few times, I'll take a camber measurement before I touch the upper 4 nuts at the strut tower to see what my camber is.

 

Leave it to Tom to bother fixing like that. Make sure to post pics though.

Thanks for the opinions I'll go the no decal route then. I'll be doing the painting tomorrow. Hopefully I can convince everyone (except Daryl since he's already had this on his list since forever ago.) to buy the G2 kit.

 

Wow Leo !!!
That would be my answer almost word for word. (Of course I don't have a shaker though).
I'd add that my dyno tuner said there is not enough difference in HP between the intakes to matter much. He is a Mustang guy and owns a dyno. He also said the x-pipes and exhaust (like yours) would be more useful than a bigger intake.

 

FYI I'm a mind reader.

 

I am having a hard time trying to figure out what to do about my calipers. I am going with the zinc plated rotorpros rotors and will paint them the same color with rust proofer before I install.. should I
1.leave calipers stock color
2.paint black
3. dremel them so they are polished looking?

please give me your opinions......
oh yeah Happy New Year!!

 

Hey! Chuck, I've been debating the same-thing! I know alot of people are painting them ! but I like option number three! polish them! if you don't like it you can always paint them! and the paint might even look better over the polished caliper!

 

I didn't think about painting afterwards! Thanks

 

Chuck post a pic of your car so I can decide which option would look better.

 

Wouldn't you have to rough up the polished look prior to painting?
One of the things I wanted to do, until I figured out the cost and time involved, was to actually get the calipers Powder Coated to match (VB). I think that would look great, BUT the price of an extra set is ridiculous and it's my daily driver so the down time would be unacceptable.
So I am back to G2 Blue or Red.

 

How the hell did you guess that ?
It should be here tomorrow.

 

Yes, I agree hat there's a lot of slop there, but it's there for adjustability.

Even the stock 14mm bolts, once camber is set and torqued down, it ain't going anywhere.



If they still look brand new, keep them as is.
If they look like they have some miles on them, paint them.

Polished would look good, but to do it right, they have to be powdercoated clear after polishing. Otherwise, don't expect them to have that luster after a few weeks on the road.



I'd consider black or red. The blue would probably clash with the VB of your car, thus drawing unwanted attention to them.



FYI I'm a mind reader. (Like Leo)

 

I think the factory caliper even after buffing or polishing would still provide good adhesion for the caliper paints on the market! the big thing would be getting the surface free of polishing compounds! My thoughts were if he didn't like the polished look painting would still be viable! if you were worried about paint adhesion after polishing you could always do a light sanding with a 1500 grit paper!

 

No, it's not. It's there so they can slap the bolts in at the factory. They throw the bolts in the holes and torque them down without even checking the camber. The proper camber is built into the car. It may be different from side to side, but it's still within the window for camber.

For adjustability (once lowered), you are supposed to elongate the upper holes in the strut so you can pull the top of the rotor out more. The camber bolts are just an easy way around that, but I don't like the 75 lb-ft max torque on those bolts when factory is supposed to be 148 lb-ft. That's why I took them out.

For our Ultra Lite springs, we could just slap the stock bolts back in and camber would still be in the window (you saw that for yourself).

I did this for piece of mind - now I know each side is identical, within the camber window, and will never move.

Here are some pics:

Attachment 16690

Are the proper amount of threads showing, inspector?

Attachment 16691

 

Chuck, Daryl I'm going to go with Bill and say Red or Black.