Post-Run update - Back to square one - Brakes still don't work.

I did a "Gravity Bleed" on the front left and had good brakes for about 2 x stops, then it went back to no brakes.

So it's obvious that air is getting into the L/front brake caliper somehow. Seems to be getting air in it when I "actuate" the pedal, but I don't see the leak. I bleeded through 2 x bottles. When the bleeder screw is opened, it only has foamy fluid, but the end product in the bleed container is pure, clean, brake fluid.

I'm at a loss on what to do next

Previous night -

Got the hoses to stop leaking (had to switch the copper washers around).

Pedal feels better, will take on a test run later today.

But I still have allot of "stuff" bleeding out of the left front and can't get it cleared up. It's like a white-foamy mixture of brake fluid. I realize that must mean some type of air getting in there, but where could it be coming from? The pedal is holding pressure now and I don't see anymore leaks. I've gone through a can and a half of fluid on that left front and still can't get it clear.

arghhhhhh !!!!!

 

See update above.

 

Hey Tom: Question for you - does you car have the tilt steering wheel? Do most of the '69 Cutlass' have that, do you know?

 

Mine doesn't, but it was an option in 1969.

I took my car to a German mechanic that knows a bit about old american cars and brake systems.

He's determined that the Master Cylinder (inside o-rings) are bad, causing seepage out the back (by the plunger) and dripping down.

So I brought him another rebuilt one to try this morning. If that ones bad too, I just ordered a NEW one from Autozone.

It's possible that my brake pedal was adjusted too far and the rod was pushing the master cylinder plunger too far, hence eating them up. If he can't get the other one to work, he might try rebuilding a good one out of the two he has now or wait on my new one I just ordered (1-week), whichever comes first.

He did determine that the MC was the only problem, all other items are good and no other leaks.

 

Also, did you see the "E" on that Cutlass? It hit $16+ and still didn't hit reserve.

Just knowing that somebody bid $16k on his makes me feel better with my $12k purchase.

 

That's good news. No problems without fairly straightforward solutions there.

Where did you get your car, if you don't mind my asking? Reason I'm wondering is that the bidding on that eBay Olds closed at $16,300 - but didn't meet the reserve. I contacted the seller and he said he was prepared to let it go for $17K. I suggested $16.5, and he accepted it. I'm just trying to make certain about this vehicle, since if I buy it, it'll be sight unseen.

How do you like yours, overall? Is it the 350 rocket engine? How's the power...and do you happen to know the horsepower on it?

I definitely think this car looks better in the dark blue or black.

 

See my above post.

 

Based on my experience and research, I would say 16.5K is fair. That one is in way better shape than mine. My first one was a 70 Cutlass "S" with Auto on tree and bench seat. I eventually went with buckets and floor console.

Here's a pic of my first one, it was $8K about 7 x years ago.

As long as the Eng/Tranny are good . . . I would jump on it!

 

Thanks for the info, Tom. Here's the story on the Michigan Cutlass >>

• Was fully restored professionally about 10 years ago, has subsequently had a cosmetic restoration in the past couple of years.

• Car was owned before him for one year by a middle-aged woman who won the car as part of a contest that was held by Toledo, Ohio’s largest radio station (that’s good, because it speaks to not only the cosmetic condition, but also the mechanicals – public media companies would be on the hook legally if the they were to give away a car that was not mechanically sound or safe). After one summer, she decided that she didn’t really need it and decided to sell it.

• Power steering and brakes. Power soft-top.

• No rust. Frame and panels are straight and true.

• According to owner, paint looks as good as in the pictures. Chrome has all been redone, looks "like new."

• Unfortunately, earlier history of car is unknown – no way to know if there were ever any decs or what the original mileage before rebuild were. However, rebuild was top notch and engine compartment looks very clean.

• Car runs beautifully, according to owner.

• According to owner, car is cosmetically an 8 out of 10, assuming 10 is brand new off the showroom floor. He believes it’s nice enough to pass muster at Barrett-Jackson.

 

Jump on it! Sounds like a great deal.

As for the 350 Rocket - - - Don't plan on getting anything better than a 17 sec in the quarter mile. Although the 350 Rocket V8 engines is a workhorse, it's just too small for moving the 3600(+/-) pounds around. It can sound good and look good, just not enough power, but great for cruising and gas mileage.

Good Luck! and let me know if you get it.

BREAK - - - - - -

As for my brakes, I'm waiting on another Master Cylinder (Brand New this time). Both the rebuilds I had "apparently" are bad. I went to my German friends shop and we pulled them apart. There's rust in the valve cylinders on both. This probably accounts for the loss of pressure and leakage at the MC assy and no where else. So I'm down again for the next week until my new one arrives.

I got them at Autozone, because they are usually fast with shipping me parts, but who knows how long those reb uilt MC's sat on the shelf before they sold them to me.

Tom

 

Master Cylinder came in today, so I'll get it put in by the shop tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes it, there can be nothing else causing the problem.

If it's fixed on Saturday, then I'll run it through the vehicle inspection point (Military overseas thing) on Monday.

Once that's done I can start "Doing stuff to it". Fix stuff, etc.

Wish me luck !

BREAK - - - - - - - - - - -

Hollywood . . . did you "Seal the Deal" on that Cutlass??????

 

Actually, I decided not to pull the trigger for a number of reasons, chiefly because I think I may want to upgrade to either an SE or a GT500 in 2011, and need to save some more money towards that. He's re-listed the car, though.

 

check the seals around the caliper piston, those will leak out and BREATHE in, same thing with wheel cylinders

 

Thanks! If the MC doesn't fix it, that's my next step . . . buying new calipers (front) and cylinders (back). If I end up buying those, I'll go ahead and spring for new lines, distro block and the pre-pressure valve. That way, it will be 100% new and "HAVE to WORK"

 

whats the latest news?