Really? It's a really old school fix. The trick is to use something as a base to keep it from falling down. The local Pep Boys sell a pack of small sheet metal w perforations an adhesive backing for this purpose. It's like welding patches on cold.

 

Yeah really. Usually I weld in a piece of metal into the hole to fill it in. Then apply a very thin layer of bondo smooth and paint.

 

Yup. That's a better fix. But when you don't have welding equipment, or if it's unsuitable for thin metal, (which is my case) it works. Speaking of welding equipment, some time ago I purchased from JC whitney some welding guns they have for ark welders like mine. One for spot welding and the other for stitching. I haven't got the hang of it yet, and the stitching gun got wet where I stored it. I think I'll have to throw it away. Too bad since its use is for very fine welding rods
I have used a spot welder before, on the place my buddy works
Too bad we're too far away, but thanks for the offer!

 

yeah I have used arc welders and hate them. I mainly use a wire feed welder. Those are great cuz you can set the heat to match the metal so you dont really burn thru the metal.

Oh I wasnt putting you down or anything. I was just saying what I do. I completely understand how it is. There are times where the holes are too small to weld shut and so you have to use some other method of filling them in. I have also noticed that welding is a talent too. I am still learning how to weld good. My welds are good and hold like they are supposed to but it usually takes me a couple times to get it looking good.

 

A wire feed welder is on my want list with or without gas.

I didn't take it that way, so don't worry dude.

For smallish holes I like using steel epoxy. That thing sure is tough. Too bad the bucket sized ones are worth a ton, and they only sell it on industrial hardware stores. On a previous job I had as a labor worker, they needed to put some steel rods into the concrete, so they used an epoxy that dried in less than a minute You had to be pretty fast w that stuff. It's a mix quick and use it quicker deal.

 

Oh I know about hat stuff. I used to work for my neighbors that erect stell buildings and one of the side jobs we had was to put 1/4" C-channel around the wondows and we had to use that stuff. It sucked big time. We had to inject it into the holes for threaded rod to go in so it would "hold" in the C-channel. The only thing I couldnt figure out was that the C-channel went all the way around the window opening and would never come out unless they cut it with a torch.

I dont know if you have them there but I know that Harbor Friehgt carries wire feed welders for a decent price. I believe a good brand is Heibert. My uncle has one and it works great.

 

My gfs dad and I used that stuff to fix the oil pan on his Cavalier. He was mad one day at work and he just drove over the sidewalk and made a hole in it. I almost lol in his face when he told me! We later found a free replacement.
I once had a HF catalog, and they have good pricesl I once saw one in a Sam's club for like @ $250 or something.

 

Yeah the small ones that is perfect for automotive work really dont cost alot. they are usually aorund the 200-300 dollar range.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/539925...omments_anchor
Here's a lil inspiration

 

Installed the TV cable yesterday, and to say the least, it was a PITA Put the portable battery booster on it and fired 'er up and ran like a champ. Some closer inspection revealed that mice had fun chewing some small sections of the red 8mm plug wires on the passenger side but luckily they don't jump spark around. Some wire loom will come in handy to hide that
And now's official, the Blazer will be my fiances first car. Both me and my dad told her yesterday, and she can't be more happier. We only had one condition, that she gets her driver's license. Now to continue the wrenching to make it road ready once more, and I'll drive it in the meantime.

Immediate plans are to properly install the 4wd shifter, front driveshaft, front chassis brace and front plastic cover. Then the typical fluid changes and off it goes. Other stuff to deal with is to re-install the HU, and find a small leak on the A/C. Last but not least, a fresh coat of paint w a new left fender and fix/replace the drivers door, since it was involved on an accident some years back and my Grandpa made an "improvised" repair.

 

Improvised?


What was it? How bad?

 

Pics or

 

 

Well, the drivers side fender and the door were hit on the area they face each other, and my late Grandfather used some body filler. Since it wasn't properly straightened, it didn't look too good, and I suspect that he didn't use a grinder to prep the metal, the filler has cracked and rust is showing it's ugly face. The fender is a no brainer, it's the door that will be a PITA to repair or replace

 

Well if you can show pics I can tell you if it would be best to replace or if it will be easy to repair them.

 

Pics will have to wait 'till tomorrow, it's dark outside.

 

Here are some pix of the damaged area


And another rust hole that's coming back with a vengeance

 

I would just replace the fender and door. If it wasnt right where the top curve was it would a lot easier to fix. Me personally would just fix it cuz it would be a challenge for me. The door yeah that is an area that is very hard to get to on the inside to get it out right.


You are going to have fun with with those right there. I say just fill it in with bondo and paint it. That is a trick spot cuz you have the window right there and it will need to be removed if you decide to cut out the rust and weld in new. Dont be surprised either if the rust doesnt go under the window.

 

Just as I thought. My best friend may be up for the challenge on the door, but he'll have to take a closer look. With the door out of the car it should be easier, er, less difficult to work on it.

That rust was fixed with some fiberglass and bondo some years back.
The part of removing the window is an easy one by a local shop, but if I can't get a replacement rubber seal, that will be a PITA.

 

To be honest at first I thought that it was a huge crack in the metal and not the bondo coming off.