Midwest TMS'ers General Communication Thread
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Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
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Good luck Darrell! I have been lucky and never had one but a good friend is plagued by them and I know it is terrible type of pain. Get better quick.
Legacy TMS Member
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
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6 Posts
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
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6 Posts
Well the stone is out and it's hunky dory now. Well not with the mustang. Quit working on the way to work the other night. After a lot of chasing things around it was the neutral safety switch for the clutch again (3rd time). Back running now. I added a jumper pin to my tool kit for next time.
Legacy TMS Member
crazy 3 times replacing the switch.... are you going to go for the lemon law buy back
Mach 1 Member
YouTube videos from my last 2 trackdays in June (Canadian Tire Motorsport Park and Lime Rock Park)
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
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A video from RoadKill about finding a 69 Mach one. Hopefully Scott sees this too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaCGz-2j1Oo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaCGz-2j1Oo
Yes I did see this video Darrel. Wish I had the 70 back in the stable some days
Ok I need some help. My non starting problems have come back. I've check the neutral safety switch and replaced it, pulled the battery and it tested ok but is several years old, pulled the starter which tested good 2 different time but replace it with a PA hi torque new one. I have power to the starter solenoid. When I turn on the keys all power comes on and I can hear the fuel pumps kicking and the electric water pump for both the engine and SC kicking. I'm getting ready to replace the battery in the key fob but I don't think the pats is the problem. It drove fine up till the no start so I hoping the engine isn't locked up (no reason for it to be). I'll probably buy a new battery just to replace it. Help????
Battery in the key fob didn't help.
Battery in the key fob didn't help.
Last edited by dly; 7/24/17 at 04:04 PM.
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 9, 2005
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Posts: 6,982
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Received 6 Likes
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6 Posts
Ok I need some help. My non starting problems have come back. I've check the neutral safety switch and replaced it, pulled the battery and it tested ok but is several years old, pulled the starter which tested good 2 different time but replace it with a PA hi torque new one. I have power to the starter solenoid. When I turn on the keys all power comes on and I can hear the fuel pumps kicking and the electric water pump for both the engine and SC kicking. I'm getting ready to replace the battery in the key fob but I don't think the pats is the problem. It drove fine up till the no start so I hoping the engine isn't locked up (no reason for it to be). I'll probably buy a new battery just to replace it. Help????
Battery in the key fob didn't help.
Battery in the key fob didn't help.
Darrel,
In the OLD days there was an electrical ground strap that went from the engine block to the frame of the car that completed the electrical circuit for the starter. Might check to see if it has come loose or corroded attachment point. I remember this because it caused me a no start condition on a 1984 Bronco I had.
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That's what I was thinking but didn't want to be wrong so I didn't post Whew
New battery is about 1/2" taller and has a clearance problem with the hood. I worked on the battery box and gain most of the lost 1/2" back but it still touch's the hood according to the play doe that I'm using. I do have a plastic cover on the positive terminal so it's not direct contact.