www.ROTORPROS.net Specials
#1
www.ROTORPROS.net Specials
Hello we offered this last month on Lightning Rodder with great success and feedback.. We can ship you all four ROTORPROS rotors plus BRAKE FRICTION - Centric Parts POSI QUIET CERAMICS for only $260.. All those interested send us a www.paypal.com payment to rotorpros@yahoo.com We will run this until the 18th of Dec.. Thanks
If you want to upgrade to Hawk HPS add $60... Or add $75 for Hawk Ceramics...
As for the rotors.. They are our Rotors in your choice of drilled only, slotted only, drilled and slotted or dimpled and slotted.. We silver zinc plate all our rotors.... However, just for this special... we will custom color coat them or even black or gold zinc them... Visit ROTORPROS - Performance Brakes - Brake Pads, Brake Rotors and Brake Kits for more information..
Applications are 2005-2009 Mustang v6 or v8 ( non GT500 or Saleen )
..
Please do not PM.. as we do not check the forum as much as our emails.. sales@ROTORPROS.net is the best way to contact.. Thanks
If you want to upgrade to Hawk HPS add $60... Or add $75 for Hawk Ceramics...
As for the rotors.. They are our Rotors in your choice of drilled only, slotted only, drilled and slotted or dimpled and slotted.. We silver zinc plate all our rotors.... However, just for this special... we will custom color coat them or even black or gold zinc them... Visit ROTORPROS - Performance Brakes - Brake Pads, Brake Rotors and Brake Kits for more information..
Applications are 2005-2009 Mustang v6 or v8 ( non GT500 or Saleen )
..
Please do not PM.. as we do not check the forum as much as our emails.. sales@ROTORPROS.net is the best way to contact.. Thanks
#5
Legacy TMS Member
Wow... those all black ones... that's really tempting... Can you continue this special until... oh... July '10 or something?
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Questions for everyone, whomever wants to answer...
How does this stay black under daily use? Fairly amazing if it does... never seen rotors like that.
Is this suitable for daily use, or is this more of a racing type set up? I'm not real sure I want to break my neck during the commute... not that rotors and pads would do it, but still.
Does the slots and drills cause premature wear of the pads as compared to the nonslot/drill rotors? Or does this instead increase pad life? Understanding it'll probably help fade resistance...
Also, I'm guessing it's a size of the rotor issue as to why the SN95s are cheaper, yes?
#6
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The black actually burns off where the pads touch, and it stays black everywhere else instead of it rusting like the stockers and cheaper rotors. A very nice touch IMO! It shouldn't effect pad life but with a more aggressive pad it will probably last less anyways.
#9
the site looks too crowded with words, cant even see the rotors for my car there, just says "hey we're the best, heres our paypal address if u want to buy" ..doesnt create the enthusiasm to buy because its too crowded with words like i said and no promotional banners
#10
Rotorsports says "The more holes you drill the weaker the rotors become!!"
then isnt the factory rotor with no holes the best in that case?
edit: for somebody who doesnt know much about the kinds of rotors but wants to add for safety, how can they get pricing if there are no educational pictures on drilled&slotted/dimpled&slotted/drilled/slotted etc..i have no idea which ones which, but i like the one with 3 dots and dashes in it, now i have to go learn it somewhere else first, then come back and ask my question..other sites would show you the difference on their site so u dont navigate to another site.
then isnt the factory rotor with no holes the best in that case?
edit: for somebody who doesnt know much about the kinds of rotors but wants to add for safety, how can they get pricing if there are no educational pictures on drilled&slotted/dimpled&slotted/drilled/slotted etc..i have no idea which ones which, but i like the one with 3 dots and dashes in it, now i have to go learn it somewhere else first, then come back and ask my question..other sites would show you the difference on their site so u dont navigate to another site.
Last edited by HizliBullet; 12/10/09 at 06:09 PM.
#12
Legacy TMS Member
Rotorsports says "The more holes you drill the weaker the rotors become!!"
then isnt the factory rotor with no holes the best in that case?
edit: for somebody who doesnt know much about the kinds of rotors but wants to add for safety, how can they get pricing if there are no educational pictures on drilled&slotted/dimpled&slotted/drilled/slotted etc..i have no idea which ones which, but i like the one with 3 dots and dashes in it, now i have to go learn it somewhere else first, then come back and ask my question..other sites would show you the difference on their site so u dont navigate to another site.
then isnt the factory rotor with no holes the best in that case?
edit: for somebody who doesnt know much about the kinds of rotors but wants to add for safety, how can they get pricing if there are no educational pictures on drilled&slotted/dimpled&slotted/drilled/slotted etc..i have no idea which ones which, but i like the one with 3 dots and dashes in it, now i have to go learn it somewhere else first, then come back and ask my question..other sites would show you the difference on their site so u dont navigate to another site.
But if you're a DD type person and have normal braking patterns, not some racer, then the stocks are fine. Given that argument, though, solid rotors would be even better than vented ones, an idea which is patently not the case in many applications.
Engineering is a fun issue of compromises. Strengths of materials as a solid versus as a 'holed' one depend greatly on how they're being used. For example, do you see many solid, one piece wheels out there? No? They all pretty much have holes in them? Hm... interesting.
That's because of the flexing needed for the wheels to 'bounce' from a pothole. Without the holes, there is no way for the wheel to flex. It then bends or cracks, or causes a hub failure, or shearing of studs or some other malady. The holes allow the wheel to redirect stresses around the hole instead of shooting them straight to the hub, and more evenly distribute the shockwave.
A similar idea with drilling and slotting the rotors, but in this case, it's a heat issue. The vents on the stock rotors do some amount of cooling, but adding more surface area in the way of venting the rotor (drilling) as well as getting air to *cool the pads* (holes and slots) is an effective compromise to the situation of brake fading. Even on a DD that will help in some way.
To a certain extent. As long as you don't go shotgun and start goin' nuts with the holes and slots, thereby causing the metal to have a definite weakening along the holes that stress can follow, causing failure.
It's possible that more holes and slots causes less braking force in the loss off friction material on the rotors... slots and holes don't exactly interact directly with the pads, after all.
A balance of holes/slots is all that's needed for improvement, without sacrificing performance or safety. Their warning is against adding more holes than they've used, which does happen, and they're taking a direct statement against.
#14
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Rotorsports says "The more holes you drill the weaker the rotors become!!"
then isnt the factory rotor with no holes the best in that case?
edit: for somebody who doesnt know much about the kinds of rotors but wants to add for safety, how can they get pricing if there are no educational pictures on drilled&slotted/dimpled&slotted/drilled/slotted etc..i have no idea which ones which, but i like the one with 3 dots and dashes in it, now i have to go learn it somewhere else first, then come back and ask my question..other sites would show you the difference on their site so u dont navigate to another site.
then isnt the factory rotor with no holes the best in that case?
edit: for somebody who doesnt know much about the kinds of rotors but wants to add for safety, how can they get pricing if there are no educational pictures on drilled&slotted/dimpled&slotted/drilled/slotted etc..i have no idea which ones which, but i like the one with 3 dots and dashes in it, now i have to go learn it somewhere else first, then come back and ask my question..other sites would show you the difference on their site so u dont navigate to another site.
The factory ones are good, but after several hard breakings it will feel like it's warping (and combine that with our current pads, well, you get the picture). The drilled/slotted will allow the disc to cool a lot faster than the stockers.
#15
Legacy TMS Member
I can attest to this, don't use them on a road course. Mine were pretty darn new and I used them on a 3.5 mile 21 turn course and the fronts cracked. Rotorpros replaced with no problems what so ever.
aggressive daily driving they are perfect. Also you get that great look!
repeat* Stockers are better for actual road racing, Rotorpros are for looks. Drag racing is fine as well.
So my advise, if you want the looks they are perfect, if you want to road race, swap the stockers back on.
I would buy these again when mine are toast without hesitation.
aggressive daily driving they are perfect. Also you get that great look!
repeat* Stockers are better for actual road racing, Rotorpros are for looks. Drag racing is fine as well.
So my advise, if you want the looks they are perfect, if you want to road race, swap the stockers back on.
I would buy these again when mine are toast without hesitation.
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