Well, he is north of Florida.

 

You're supposed to use silicone to condition the seals anyhow.

 

Garage works good for this issue, but that only works when the car is home. My car doesn't leave home when the weather is bad but now that you mention it, I have experienced this issue. When the battery dies (which they all pretty much do) the only way to get into the car is to force the door open without the window dropping. I've had to do it several times. Not fun, must be worse in 10 degree weather.

 

This is my winter Problem

 

We got slightly more snow here in Michigan. I garaged the Stang but I found some light dusting of snow that seeped through the garage door and roof vents. It's the most snow the car has seen so far.

 

I park on the street...Driving to work in Detroit has been interesting to say the least, since the roads dont get plowed so well in Wayne county

 

Interesting. The roads aren't plowed in my subdivision until 4 days later, and most of the main roads just get salt. I drive the Crown Vic during the winter.

 

Lol, nice. "I thought I parked my car here"

 

+10 on the silicone spray, it will solve this problem. You can also use it on snow shovels and it will stop wet snow from sticking to the shovel.

 

The silicone spray will help with the window seals, but they will still stick when it's wicked cold. The ice on the inside of the windshield can be reduced by keeping as much moisture out of the cabin as possible. Most of the moisture is likely coming from the wet carpet, from snowy feet. Run the floor heat at full high as much as possible, gets too hot open a window. The idea is to try and keep the carpet dry. You might want to hit the door lock mechanism with a little WD-40 too.

 

Probably want to crack a window with the heater on anyway just to give the moisture a place to vent to, otherwise the moisture will just recondense when the air cools down again after you shut the car off.

 

Switch the aircon on and recirculate the cabin air - it will de-humidify the air inside the car. The air-con doesn't have to be set to 'cold' to work...the refridgeration unit itself won't kick in, but it'll recirculate the air and also has the benefit of cycling the coolant through the hoses, preventing hose-rot - Ford recommend you use it at least once a month anyway...

 

Why would the compressor not kick in? In fact it should, and that's what you want to do to take the moisture out.
Turn a car on w/o a/c and on recirc and you are going to have alot of fogged up windows.

 

Use the DEFROSTER. That's what it was designed to do, defrost while using the A/C compressor to dehumidify the interior! Alternatively you can just turn on the A/C with the heat on to achieve the same effect. This wasn't possible on other manual HVAC's due to the lack of an external A/C control.

 

hmm....its possible that my last 2 cars didn't have working a/c so that's part of why i had a problem with humidity to start with. And I've never thought to recirculate the cabin air to dry it out. I'll make it a point to give it a try, thanks

 

The compressor turns on automatically in the defrost modes anyway.

 

I meant it just won't get cold...lol

 

Once again, a poor design by Ford. I guess they believe that all Mustangs are only driven on nice, sunny, and warm days.

 

I agree, I've never had the displeasure of trying to open the S197 door in the winter but I've had trouble opening the framed door of my Crown Vic when it ices up. I was afraid the plastic door handle was going to crack and break off in my hand! I know the S197 door handle already has trouble retracting by itself when something breaks on the inside, let alone trying to pull it while hoping the window drops down enough. The windows are ambitious but not totally practical.